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Eintrag
Wilson's Promontory

Wilson's Promontory Marine National Park is an excellent travel destination with access to sandy beaches, clear blue water, and beautiful mountains in an idyllic setting.

Vereker Tors

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Vereker Tors
Lower Vereker Tors

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Vereker Tors Lower Vereker Tors
17 Rug Rats

Detached flake up left from Ankle Biters, finishing up face

19 I'd Rather Be Eating

Nondescript. The right-leaning finger-crack and easy climb above.

12 Ankle Biters

Tor uphill and right of Rug Rats. Hard start in corner to first bolt. Move right past second bolt.

19 Billy Lids

As for Ankle Biters but move left past top bolt.

17 Smoke Detector

Climb the corner just right of Billy Lids to horizontal crack. Move right around the corner to join The Doctor.

5 The Doctor

Good holds up the front of the tor right of Smoke Detector.

18 If I Were a Butterfly

Quite good. About 40m right around the hillside from I'd Rather Be Eating and about 15m uphill from the track is a narrow slab leaning on another boulder. Climb the narrow slab, finishing on amazing jugs.

Tongue Point

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point
Causeway Area

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point Causeway Area
18 Causeway Corner

'Deep corner with double cracks which can be seen from far end of Tongue Point track down left on opposite side of causeway. Right corner-crack, then step left below overhanging block (wide crack goes straight up here). Layback left-leading crack (crux)'

14 Causeway Flake

'Shallow corner-crack a few metres right of Causeway Corner to right leading flake'

Tongue Point
Wave Wall

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Main Wall

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point Main Wall
18 Monster On A Leash

'"Leave well alone" - even worse than it looks! (Previously known as The Ultimate Piece of Pox.) The left-most line on the main section of the cliff (about 20m left of Forked Tongue, with a dank chimney in between). A seeping, flared black groove to gritty cracks through headwall to finish.'

21 Forked Tongue

'Thin crack at far left end of cliff immediately right of wide, black crack, joining this at the top'

24 Lick It Up

'Right line on smooth face on left side of cliff. Short corner, then crack. Right across face to another crack'

23 All I Want Is A Rock 'n' Roll Girl

'Directly up series of leaning, wide cracks'

18 Mother-In-Law's Tongue

'Rather harsh. Line of least resistance up series of leaning, wide cracks.'

22 Native Tongue

'Sustained hand-jamming right of Mother-In-Law's Tongue, starting as for Saliva. Tricky final move through summit block.'

19 Saliva

'Prominent, white flake/pillar (reached by way of short crack), then step round right. Cracks, wall.'

21 Slag Sisters

'Up Saliva's crack and flake/pillar, then step left to hanging crack. Step back right to finish as for Saliva.'

20 Go With The Flow

'Delightful finger-cracks when dry, but often seeping. The direct black crack system just right of a recessed section of cliff (and 3m right of Foxy Lady), to belay under the large block on top. Finish up rightwards, or better, across left.'

24 Foxy Lady

'Middle thin crack on main wall starting as for Hammerhead.'

25 Hammerhead

'Middle thin crack with hard crux at half-height."

23 I'm A Believer

'Right crack with technical finish up incipient seams.'

21 Tungsten Tips

'Wall right of I'm A Believer. 2 BRs.'

22 Sunsecrets

Superb balancy face-climbing up the brown streak midway between Tungsten Tips and Tongue Tied (the left-leaning seams at the right end of this best, main section of the cliff). Step off large boulder opposite pinnacle, to BR and bomber #3 Rock. Up (crux) to edge and FH, slightly rightish to finish as for Tongue Tide's upper cracks.'

18 Tongue Tide

'Arete to diagonal 2m right of Tungsten Tips.'

10 Mallory's Route

'Right-leaning, wide crack right of Tongue Tide. Variant by way of thin crack on white arete is better (grade 14).'

21 The Curse

'From oozing, black mank 2m left of Kate's Climb weave up wall left of that route to vegetated exit.'

17 Kate's Climb

'Wall, flake directly below abseil point. Watch for loose rock.'

Pinnacle

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point Main Wall Pinnacle
20 French Kisses

The deep crack and arete on the west side of the pinnacle, then the flake-crack up high.

23 Pom on the Prom

Up pillar to roof of detached boulder. Out roof to surmount headwall on thin flake.

14 Lipstick

The east side of the pinnacle. Scramble down to a crackline to start. Up crack to ledges and take flakes up the top boulder.

Tongue Point
Cleopatras Zawn

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point Cleopatras Zawn
18 Chocolate Reaction

'Right-leaning crack at entrance and on left wall'

12 In the Nude

'Line with horizontal breaks 2m right of easy arete. In the Nude is 5m left of Chocolate Reaction and directly below right end of Irish Wake Wall'

Tongue Point
Sea Dream Zawn

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point Sea Dream Zawn
12 Take One

'On the right side of a buttress forming the left-hand end of the large sloping midway shelf. Takes the twin off-width vertical cracks starting from a smaller shelf, to a steeper finish.'

10 Take Two

'From the left-hand (outer) end of the large shelf take a vertical crack to a distinct, left-leaning flake/ledge. Left across this to finish at the top of Take One.'

10 Take Three

'The vertical crackline 2m right of Take Two, starting from the same ledge.'

3 Take Four

'The easy, left-leading ramp across this little face, starting from about midway on the sloping ledge.'

12 Take Five

'Scramble or abseil to platform and corner at water-level. Starting beneath, and at the right-hand of the sloping ledge.'

  1. 10m Traverse into zawn at sea level to hanging belay

  2. 15m Up twin jam-cracks to top of small block to take a big direct crack. Scramble off left.

14 Hydroepiphobia

'"The fear of epics involving water". Go to the base of the zawn, as for Take Five, then scramble along the ledge into the zawn's dank base to a little right-facing corner deep within. Climb the corner/crack through a rooflet, continuing up crack to ledges

16 Escapism

'The vertical crack through brown rock 2m right of Hydroepiphobia's corner. Climb the crack to a ledge, then the wider crack just right to the top (finishes directly opposite the upper corner of The Corridor of Uncertainty on the other wall).'

15 The Corridor of Uncertainity

'A fine adventure. The obvious line across the southern face. Abseil over the block down black streak to belay at the little pedestal in the lower corner. up the corner, then follow traverse-line left across horizontal flakes (ignoring the rising left-leading cracks) to an awkward step across to the ramp. Follow the ramp, easier, up left to finish up a little corner to blocks on top.'

Tongue Point
Fang Cove

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point Fang Cove
13 Down to the Waterline

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

22 Back on the Borderline

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

17 Dire Strait

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

18 Shark Attack

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

10 Sea Spray

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

22 The Happy Hooker

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

21 Dancing in Giraffe

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

21 Stormy Monday

First roped climb at Fang Cove. Proud corner on left side of the cliff. Scramble to stance. Follow line to roof. FA finished right under big roof, then traversed left in great position to top of blocks.

22 M1 Rites of Passage

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point
Neptunes Thumb

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

Tongue Point Neptunes Thumb
16 Sea Nymph

'Prominent twin cracks on landward side to top of Neptunes Thumb'

17 Crab Attack

'From top of Neptunes Thumb, abseil to hanging belay on ocean side. The crack.'

Whiskey Bay

Bouldering at Whiskey Bay! A beautiful spot to be close to the beach and sea. Some decent routes and much quieter than Squeaky Beach. Best in low tide as more boulders are accessible.

Whiskey Bay
North Whiskey

Boulders on the northern section of Whiskey Bay. Some potentials routes closer to the water may provide a wet feet start at high tide.

Whiskey Bay North Whiskey
Ardmore Boulder

Overhung boulder seated above others.

Whiskey Bay North Whiskey Ardmore Boulder
V3 Golden Eagle

Hands only problem on granite slopers moving from left to right.

Whiskey Bay
South Whiskey

The maze of boulders at the south of the beach. Many of the climbs have obvious holds, good landings, and is suitable for beginners. It is a scenic destination with many people around so please be respectful to other park users and rangers.

The best time to go is during low tide as a number of problems will be underwater otherwise.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey
Keep Walking Boulder

A smaller boulder with an interesting crack and some potential overhung routes.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Keep Walking Boulder
V0 Drunk and Alone

Behind the boulder. Sit-start matched laybacking off rail and punch up for the jug.

V4 Johnny Black

Open Project. Sit start. Up overhung black streak on small holds.

V3 Rare and Exceptional

Sit start. Tricky moves off the deck as you head up overhanging crack

V0 Just Coke

Sit start. Up face between left arete and crack line on face.

V0 Johnny and Coke

Sit start. Easily up left leaning diagonal crack on face.

V1 Striding Man Society

Sit start. Use triangular flake to mantle up onto slab. Stride on up.

V0 Societal Intoxication

The small rounded arete. Stand-start and up.

V1 The Inebriated Climber

An easy traverse but a tad contrived. Sit-start and move right past a few slopers.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey
Chivas Regal Boulder

Large grey boulder, with slab routes on the beach side. You may get wet feet at high tide.

Descent is by scrambling down path of least resistance onto a smaller boulder.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Chivas Regal Boulder
V1 Smooth Blend

Stand start. Up pocket to the right of the arete, up to small crack. Definite highball so don't fall.

V1 Chivas Centre

Climb centre line of the slab, just right of Smooth Blend

V2 Chivas Right

Start just left of right arete, climb through the vague pockets to a delicate exit.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey
Ardberg Boulder

One of the larger boulders one the edge of the sand. Capped in orange "algae" with a large left lean crack dissecting the back of the boulder. The fused pieces of rock make for amazing hand holds.

This boulder may occasionally be covered by sand at the bottom. It may not be climbable at times. If the lower flake is not visible, it is not climbable.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Ardberg Boulder
V2 Scotch on the Rocks

Sit start off the rock, using the large left leaning diagonal crack. Up wall through interesting crimps and onto bomber jugs at top.

V3 Heavily Peated

Sit start from wet sand. Tricky mantle onto ground flake and up.

V2 Heavily Peated Scotch on the Rocks

Follow the crack. SDS as for Heavily Peated. Stand and traverse leftward following the diagonal left leaning line. No using jugs at top until you are fully on the slab.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey
Neat Boulder

A larger boulder within the maze.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Neat Boulder
V2 Straight Up

Stand start. Up rounded arete. Watch out for the rocks below, a spotter may help!

V1 Just a Nip

On the south side of the boulder opposite Straight Up. Stand start matched on basalt rail. Top out to left via high foot and jugs.

V3 A Wee Dram

Start as for 'Just a Nip'[3008882781] matched on basalt rail, following pinchy holds out to the right.

V2 Brandy Snifter

Match start to the right of 'A Wee Dram'. Traverse around left into 'Just a Nip'.

V2 Two fingers

Balancy start left of 'Just a Nip'[3008882781] with right hand in nice undercling slot and left hand on faint crimp . Bang up to jug hold and top out directly above.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey
Lagavulin

A low flat boulder in the field with a small overhung roof section.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Lagavulin
V2 Navigating Through Murky Waters

SDS on far left of the boulder on nice jug rail with feet underneath. Pull off the ground and mantel.

V4 The Monster in the Sea

A leftward technical traverse on great holds. SDS with one hand on jug of "Old Fashioned" and the other hand on the 3-finger low pocket. Finish up on the far left of the boulder.

The full problem (open project) starts low in the overhang on two 3-finger pockets and busts out to the lip before continuing the traverse. Would likely go.

V0 Alien Potatoes

A beginner's dream. SDS on the two alien looking potato holds and head directly up using the sidepull on the right.

V1 Old Fashioned

Start matched on jug on edge of overhang and do a fun one-move punch to the jug and mantle.

Bat hang start for fun / style points.

V0 Slippery Beginnings

Rounded slab opposite the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start easily but mantel difficulty.

V2 The Backside of the Whale

A nice technical traverse which is immediately on your left as you can see the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start as far right as possible. Traverse leftward using slopers and crimps before reaching the jugs. Avoid the good lip until the mantel.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey
Pebbly Debbly Boulder

A low tide boulder only with two lines on the right as you approach from the beach, and two lines on the back of the boulder.

Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Pebbly Debbly Boulder
V0 Squarking Seagulls

Sit start with hands in the bottom of crack. Follow crack/ flake to the top

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