Ships Prow Hauptsächlich Sportklettern 15 Routen in Sektor

Quality trad. Will probably only be repeated by most climbers on top-rope. Pity, as the gear is bomber. Rap from far northern ringbolts (2m right of small cave with FHs) to double ring belay on wall above undercut ledge (and feet on huge death block). Up splitter crack, which opens and closes for a few metres then right onto slab. Cams in pockets for a few metres then through steep section (seeps after rain) and final hard move up seam crack. Hand traverse left a few moves to mantle up to ledge. Leave a sling or rap rope on the lip of the ledge as a runner when you rap down.

One of the best here - well bolted, great rock. Rap in from two FHs in back of small cave, 5m right of Humidify to hanging belay above chossy undercut ledge. Climb slightly right on horizontals, then reachy move to crimpy 'slab'. Up right side of arete on great scoops then weird mantle up left then up face above. Finish left of perched boulder.

Lovely technical arete on top quality orange rock. 20m further along the ledge from rap anchors above Busted is another set of rap anchors set on a horizontal ledge. Rap down keeping rope to the north of the arete. Belay on small ledge. Climb arete, finishing out left of summit block.

Sweet arete, starting on comfy ledge and crux right at the very top. Rap in from two horizontally placed Ubolts placed at chest level on small arete, about 5m past the big gymea lilly.

The top half of this pitch is great, but the lower section is reachy and chossy (but well protected). Walk 10m north of Captain Cheese anchors to a second set of anchors set on small vertical wall on narrow ledge. Rap 40m down off these to anchor on arete right of corner with tiny ledge on the right about 10m above the ground - double bolt belay. Climb left into corner for a move, step left onto short arete, through reachy rooflet and then left across exposed face of flakes under monster roof to bolt belay at juggy section. Finish as for pitch 2 of Tree Tornado.

Pretty improbable for the grade, traversing under and out some massive roofs. Take plenty of long draws and a few slings to keep the rope-drag under control. The route starts at same belay shared with Captain Cheese and shared the first few bolts with that route. Rap down the Captain Cheese corner to the semi-hanging belay in sandy white scoop to the right of the arete. Start by traversing right along tricky wall to reach major corner with fern. Now launch up and right onto white juggy overhung face trending right to stance in corner under huge roof. Swing out right across juggy break to lip of roof, then finish up excellent thin slab and face and flake above. Double UB belay at op, but it's probably better to rig rope off rap bolts in boulder above Captain Cheese. At least 12 bolts on this route in total. It can be split into two pitches.

Steep corner crack on trad with bolted belays. Very airy! Both pitches can be combined into one mega pitch if you bring enough trad. To descend fix rap rope to double u-bolts in large boulder on top of cliff. Rap down the corner (which is what you are climbing up). At base of corner keep rapping down overhung arete to semi-hanging belay in white sandy scoop (shared pitch 2 belay with Titanical). It is also possible to extend top rap anchor with long slings and rap in on doubled ropes and pull them afterwards for mega commitment factor.

1. 13m (20) Traverse directly right from belay past u-bolt to overhung corner crack (u-bolt). Climb the very overhung right side of corner on bubbly pockets, placing medium/large cams in horizontals. When a break finally appears on the left wall step over to it and traverse across to double u-bolt hanging belay on arete (shared anchor with Titanical).

2. 20m (17) Very exposed! Straight up to roof and corner crack, that starts wide and thins quickly. Stem up this with occasional ledges to top. This pitch is very well protected on trad - take cams from #4 to #0.25 thin finger size. Belay well back on double u-bolts in boulder.

Mega overhung arete that can be led as one giant pitch or three little pitches with semi-hanging belays. Best way is to link the first two pitches into one pitch. The route is all bolts. Fix rope and rap in down Captain Cheese off double u-bolts on boulder at top of cliff. Rap down all the way to the base of the killer arete and double u-bolt hanging belay with teeny tiny footledge ledge (you may need to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall - it's overhung!)

1. 12m (23) Superb technical arete on pockets. Start on right side, then switch to left side, then finish right side. Finish in white sandy scoop - semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

2. 10m (22) Swing left onto 'tufa' and undercut arete (a bit chossy) then up rad square arete feature to semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

3. 20m (22) Continue up the exposed arete to top. This pitch is a bit contrived with the corner just to the right in a few spots. The last bolt is a tough and scary clip! (maybe put a sling on it when you rap in)

Right-trending face route up a series of flakes. Rap down south side of Titanical arete from u-bolts in boulder. Kick yourself down so you stay connected to the overhung wall until you can reach one of the bolts on this route and can clip in. Rap down and left to tiny vegetated ledge and giant horizontal u-bolt belay. Traverse right from belay and up mini arete to break. Crimp up then delicate traverse right across flakes to finishes at hanging bolt belay at end of pitch 1 of the Captain Cheese. Finish as for Captain Cheese or Titanical pitch 3.

Start just left of the Bow Wave belay station. Climb the fridge-like arete then move past rooflet (big undercling) over the lip and up, staying about 3m left of the Titanical arete.

Rap from Titanical rap station over the southern cliff, use access rungs to move up past big (wet) boulder and onto ledge, you will find a 2 ring bolt belay for this route, which starts left of the belay up an obvious orange flake. Take care to place a decent purple camalot (0.5) before the first crimpy moves (about 5m off the deck). The rest of the gear is bomber, slightly spaced. Double ring bolt to lower off.

Double bolt belay. Sustained edges forming a cool sequence start this route until you reach a ledge, move right along this to mantle and then up. Theres a bit of a weird bit (bolt #5) where you can go left or right to get to the upper turret, and a hands free ledge. Move left to finish on the lower offs on the right side of the turret.

Bolt belay left of Gigatonne. Good gear up wonderful crack to start, then make move right and go up with more good cams. Stay right of vegetated ledge and keep going up until a good ledge where a lower off was considered (22 to here). Instead clip a bolt to your right and keep going up the left side of the turret to the anchor (23).