Routen in Vordere Stadelwand

Nach oben hin schwierige Routenfindung.

Sehr gut abgesichert, gute und schöne Henkelkletterei!

Sehr gut abgesichert, gute und schöne Henkelkletterei!

Gute Henkelkletterei. Nach oben etwas schwierige Routenfindung in steilem baumbestandenem Fels. Viele Sanduhren.

Nette Übungsroute

Auch hier ist die Crux v. d. Stand.

Die erste Route hier, viele SU!

Netter Baseclimb zum ( Sanierten ) Stand d. 99er - Pfades.

Ernste, alpine Mehrseillängentour, Absicherung mit NH u. SU unterschiedlicher Qualität; öfters brüchige Passagen. Sehr selten begangen! Topo im Führer "Klettereien in d. vorderen Stadelwand" v. Herbert Oberenzer.

Renovated tour along the impressive ridge in the Stadlwandkessel. Partly very exposed climbing. Since the renovation, it has been well secured with bolts and in the lower part of the ridge with a much more direct route.

Info:

The route starts at the upper left end of the valley, a few meters higher than "Kesselkargrat", leading through a kind of hole in the cave (giving it its name).

The route is best combined with "Kesselkargrat", then you get four nice UIAA 6 pitches. "Hinten durchs Loch" is a little bit easier than "Kesselkargrat" but might feel a bit sketchier (a bit more run out, and a bit worse rock quality in the second pitch). To combine the routes, start with "Hinten durchs Loch", descent by rappelling, and then climb "Kesselkargrat". By itself, the route might not be worth it.

.

Route description:

The first pitch starts by stemming up towards the hole. First one bolt on the right wall (when looking into the cave), then three bolts on the left wall, the again a bolt on the right side (do not continue on the left, unfinished project by M. Bauer). You leave the hole-part of the route to a ledge with a rappel station (~ 10m, UIAA 5). Do not use this as a belay! Instead continue up until you reach the anchor of a sport route ("Elfe", UIAA 6+) and then traverse right (do not follow the old bolts (Stift-Bohrhaken), those belong to an old aid-climb "Magenkrankenweg") to the anchor of another sport route ("Shakti", UIAA 7). Use this as your belay (~ 10m from the rappell station, UIAA 6).

For the second pitch, start up and then traverse left (~ 7m, UIAA 6). Take care, the rock can be crumbly. After you reach a small depression, continue up to the top of the route (~ 15m, UIAA 5-) (again, do not follow the old bolts of "Magenkrankenweg").

.

Descent:

Descent by rappelling from the top of the route (do not top out, lots of loose rock!). With 50m twin/half ropes you can rappel directly to the bottom. Otherwise, use the anchors of the sport routes and/or the rappel station in the middle of the first pitch.

Sanierte und lohnende Route. 60m - Seil, mit der Verlängerung nach oben(Dachlausbau) 12 Express, HELM! Abstieg: 1 x 30m und 1 x 25m abseilen, durch den Schuttkessel zum E. absteigen.

1. und 2. SL lassen sich gut in einer Seillänge verbinden

Variant of the first pitch for 8-

Zweite und dritte SL lassen sich mit 50m gut in einer gehen