Routen in British Columbia für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Climb up and into a overhanging finger crack between two overhanging boulders.

!!! CHAIN THAT REINFORCED THE CRUX BOLT HAS BEEN STOLEN !!!

Start off ledge, boulder moves to start then easy climbing.

5.8 to the chains at halfway, with a few 10a moves immediately after. Good warmup climb.

The fun part is figuring out the start. Follows the corner line to the top out.

Follow the path from parking lot to the bridge across the lower falls creek. On the west side of the creek, outside of the paths. Series of 3 tall boulders, this being the second of the 3.

BOULDER GETS MOSSY, CAREFUL

Start from the bottom of the cliff, up the left hand side ledge, and towards the bolt (not the pin)

Starts at the base of the gully. Up the leaning pillar to the arete.

Start up the chimney to the little roof and continue through the upper chimney.

This route is on the far left side of the wall. Follow directions to the TAC Arete. Climb starts right of Bajo Techo. Start up easy slab. Step across to the slightly overhanging wall on the right and continue to the slab above.

Start up the crack (crux) to the sustained face above. Shares anchor with Cobble Wobble. Anchor hook to lower off.

Pitch 1 starts far right of wall heading up arete. Pitch two moves right onto another rock face and finishes on a third face to the top.

P1: 5.8, 11 bolts, chain station, 29m P2 5.10a, 13 bolts, bolt station, 33 m

Climb left of Cankers. Starts on a bouldery overhang crux that leads to some easier slab climb to mid-station. Top pitch goes over to easy bulges.

1st pitch- 5.10a, 7 bolts, 25m

2nd pitch- 5.8, 7 bolts, 30m

Right of Cankers. Climb up a dihedral crack and move left through a bulge at the top of the crack. Continue face climbing to the anchor. On the second pitch stay left and continue straight up. Shares anchor and first 2 bolts on second pitch with Cankers

P1: 5.10a, 8 bolts

P2: 5.9, 9 bolts

Fun big wall climb without the exposure. Climbs up large crack chimney feature on the far left of the wall.

1st pitch, 5.10a, 3 bolts and gear, SR to 4", 25m Start up a small face to a slab. Pull over a bulging overhang (5.10a) to a layback dihedral slab.

2nd pitch, 5.9, 2 bolts and gear, SR to 4", 15m. Work your way up vertical faces and steps.

3rd pitch, 5.8, 7 bolts, 20m. Climb the arete slab.

4th pitch, 5.10a, 6 bolts/ sling on tree, 15m. Vertical face to stemming

Face climb right of Centre Crack. Starts at the Centre Crack.

Pitch 1, 5.9, 9 bolts, chain station, 30m

Pitch 2, 5.10a, 12 bolts, chain station, 35m

Pitch 3, 5.7, 10 bolts, chain station, 30m

Climb right of the arete/face. Shares first 3 bolts with Phil's.

Starts up the crack and moves right at the big ledge. Slightly overhanging.

Reachy start up a seam to bands of pockets and pebbles above.

Climb on right side of cliff up little ledges to big over hanging bulge.

Fun detached flake to big crack above bulge. Short but fun route. (Two #3 Camelots)

Far left arete finishing on the face with a little bulge near the top.

Fun face climb moving up three different boulders. Last boulder is a thin face.

(Roche Cove)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hummingbird Wall)

A bit run out up high.

Crocodile Rock 5.10a 4 bolts FA: Adam Revit 11 metres Left most bolted line Interesting rock and fun moves. Utilize stemming while in crack at bottom of the climb. Potential ground fall between 2nd and 3rd bolt, a diligent belay helps. Good to be tall on

this climb! Lot’s of gear left behind on this climb since people don’t com- mit to the mantle. There’s holds there - look for ‘em.

Left most bolted line Interesting rock and fun moves. Utilize stemming while in crack at bottom of the climb. Potential ground fall between 2nd and 3rd bolt, a diligent belay helps.

when approaching the crag, instead of taking the right trail take the left trail to the base of this climb

a small amount of face climbing leads to a superb right-leaning finger crack that will eat your passive gear!

This route can be accessed by taking the right fork on the approach trail or from the Dirt Stamp Wall via the fixed line down to the Karate Kid Wall. Starts on black slabby rock, trend left to a bulge, then climb the thin crack up to the first set of anchors. Or climb past them and clip the Eight Litre Buckets’s anchors to get to the top of Dirt Stamp Wall.

This climb is climber’s right of K Squared Beer Patrol 5.10b. Start this climb on the large flake sidepull jug and climb up.

Leftmost route (tree anchor)

Fun route! A few slightly desperate spots with tiny holds, but it's all there. The cracks are really satisfying when you get them!

Face moves to the right facing corner of the block then thin moves along the crack. nuts and small cams theres a rap anchor under roof and one on top the new bolted extension

Climb one of the approach pitches to the midpoint ledge above the Cooked Goose area. Either P1 of Summerbreeze, Cooked Goose, or traverse in from the top of With Maple Syrup.

from the 3'd set of anchors follow the bolts and cracks to the top of the cliff. Expect some fun jugs, a tiny bit of slab, and some sweet nut placements. all cruxes have been bolted.

47m mixed. Requires small cams, rack of nuts and 14 60cm slings (regular Squamish rack plus a couple extra slings). From the High Friends anchor, head straight up to the overhang then left on bomber buckets (2 bolts). Tread left following the dike until the crack welcomes you on the right (2 bolts). Follow it to the top. Rap the Fallen Arches route or walk off the top. Named as such for the first ascent attempt was interrupted by cries of help coming from the Humpback Valley and FA bailed to render aid.

Big horizonaltal crack far right undercling to two crimps bump up to a jug. Dwarf tree at base named buddy first juggy flake is loose try not to pull too hard on it as its before the first bolt and a fall could be catastrophic. ORIGINAL GRADE 5.8 Lost holds regraded to 5.10 spring 2021

Start on the small pillar and move up the off vertical wall, balancy and thin with just enough crimpers to make it go. A couple no hands rests in the middle.

Leftmost route on the wall

Never bouldered before but a nice one by my standards. 45 degree overhang from the ground is about two meters. to get there climb the trail up mill hill (of atkins rd. in langford) then from summit head north north west - ish and towards the slope. oh and i have no idea how to rate anything

The next bolted line to the right of Wasp Buckets. Climb through a small roof section (crux), to a bolted belay station, then a steep slab for the second pitch.

A bold climb with marginal gear in its original state warranted an R/X rating. Stewart Wozny made an initial bold foray with near success, subsequently completed by Daryl Hatten

Starts in the corner between the two sport roofs. The individual pitches go at 5.10a/30 meters, 5.8/20 meters, 5.7/20 meters, 5.9/15 meters.

Between Jingo (Choss Cave) and the ledge with Half Century Girl, The Burning Man and Here Comes Trouble. 2 Pitches, first is 10+ to rap bolts, second is 10- to rap station, best done as one long pitch, close to 35m, a 70m rope works fine to lower off or rappel. A little scruffy at the bottom, but some nice jug pulling over the roof to fun face and chert climbing higher up. I think it had 15 bolts if done as one.

Furthest climb to the climber's left on Easter Egg Wall. Use horizontal fixed line to access it. Start up dihedral then trend left up to chert bands.

Old Heidi Mulbacher FA, with a name long forgotten. 10a is conservative for this route. To the right of She stole the chert.

Starts just right of The Body. Follow bolts rightwards, then above the first small roofs, you have two options: either cut left back towards the Body anchors, or continue upward and rightward to a new set of anchors higher up. The rightward option has 12 bolts total.

Closed project. The short crack route starting on the intermediate ledge.

The wide crack with a big roof in the middle, about 15 meters right of the main wall. Requires 6-8 pieces of 3”-5” gear.

Follows the right arete, with occasional face moves. Crux between 5th and 6th bolts. Shown as #14 on the crag overhead map. Named for Joseph Mairs, martyr of the 1912 Nanaimo Coal Strike.

The crack that goes strait up from the overhang near the big fir tree. The crux is the first few moves off the ground. Great pro, particularly for conglomerate. A belay anchor is there due to the airy belay situation.

The sport route just right of Psychobabble’s big dihedral. Cruiser until the crux above the 4th bolt.

A fairly serious trad lead for its grade. Gear is good through the bulge (crux), but the rock is crumbly here. Somewhat run out at the top, but a key placement can be found under the small roof.

The lone route on the upper half of this wall. Climb Screw the Taxman or Shoe Fly By first to get to the belay anchor. The belay can also be reached from the upper approach trail using a hand line. Or, climb everything right from river level in a single 30 meter pitch. Place a #1 cam as the first piece of pro, then all bolts on a technical slab after that.

Rescrubbed Sept/23

The short, steep face immediately right of Fluid Thrill.

Leftmost route on Powerline Wall. Up the narrow face on the large detached pillar, utilizing the right arete.

Start the route standing on the big boulder and climb through the large pocket. Crux is between first and second bolts.

The rightmost climb on Powerline Wall. Bouldery and reachy start. Thin crimps near the top.

Starts near base of ladder. Climb the steep face using the right arete. Shares an anchor with Buckaroo Banzai.

Climb on small crimps and pebbles up the central slab.

Trad lower half with a low first bolt. Two pieces in the crack will take you to your bolted bulging crux.

The mixed route just right of the tree with the serpent like roots. Scramble up to the high first bolt, then tackle the thin balancy slab crux. Once on the ledge, place one or two pieces in the upper crack. Seems run out but it isn’t.

The route just left of Pigtails and Miniskirts. Start up the middle of the wall and tackle the crux overhang.

Start on the small elevated ramp, climb up the short slab, then into the short but high quality corner crack.

The prominent flake crack that runs up the middle of the main wall. The gear is fair but difficult to inspect in places. The crux is near the top, traversing to the left at the roof.

Start in the depths of the “alligator pit” at the south end of the main wall. Easy climbing down low leads to an excellent flake/dihedral, then the last few crux moves from the ledge to the anchor. The crux can be done by either climbing the dihedral on the right or the face on the left, both options are 10a.

A short but burly climb that follows a lie back crack up to a series of small ledges. Located on a big detached block behind the main crag.