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Routen in North End

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Zeigt alle 21 Routen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Beliebtheit
5.7 Finally

Start at the very beginning of the cliff, where a large boulder has fallen off. Step up onto an undercut brown slab. Climb up to the roof, then move left onto a broken slab. Climb it easily to the top.

Traditionell
5.3 Crack and Jugs

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m) to a nice ledge and anchors to the right. Well cleaned as of June 2021. Shares anchors with Proboscis. Dihedral sounds hollow so treat placements with suspicion.

Traditionell 12m
5.8 Proboscis

Climb straight up the face midway between "Crack and Jugs" and "Another Stroll". Thin and thoughtful climbing followed by some obvious slab to anchors. 3 bolts added to lower half of climb in place of the knife blades and pitons used by FA. A fourth bolt was added later to protect unsuspecting sport climbers. Cleaned June 2021 and anchors installed.

Back in the day, when it was a trad climb, this was graded 5.6. With the "upgrade" to a sport climb, the grade has, also, been upgraded to a more modern 5.8.

Erstbegehung: P Low, P Allayn & D Buck, 1988

Sport 12m, 4
5.2 Another Stroll

A variation to "An Easy Stroll". Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the column-like ridge. Exit as for "An Easy Stroll". Top anchor.

Traditionell 13m
5.1 An Easy Stroll

Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to anchor.

Traditionell 13m
5.4 Hump an easy stroll

Start on An Easy Stroll. Before the roof, traverse left and finish on Hump Day using the right facing dihedral for gear placement.

Traditionell
5.7 Hump Day Direct

Start as "Hump Day". At the roof, head straight though on undercling and good sidepulls. Once on the slab above traverse left to anchors.

Sport 13m, 5
5.6 Hump Day

Immediately right of An Easy Stroll. Stay out of the dihedrals on both sides. Good sidepulls and good but thin crimps to the third bolt. Head right on balancy moves to easier interesting climbing. Top is a bit run out but takes cams. 5.6 if you use the dihedrals.

Erstbegehung: Jim Clark, 22 Mai 2020

Sport 13m, 5
5.6 (Another trad route)

Start about 1m right of "Hump Day", below a jagged left-facing flake.

Climb up to the left-facing flake and to the top of it. Then angle up and slightly left to the right-facing dihedral and up to the "Hump Day" anchor, ignore "Hump Day"'s bolts in favour of the fine gear in the dihedral.

Traditionell 13m
5.2 The Go Between

Start 2m right of "An Easy Stroll", 1m to the left of an obvious sloping roof. Move up to a V-notch, then past an overhang and up a small right-facing easy-angled dihedral to the top.

Traditionell 13m
5.6 PG One Over

Climb through the obvious break in the overhangs 3m right of "The Go Between", then straight to the top.

The crux right-step under the roof is hard to protect, and likely to be a ground fall if you fail to make the move successfully.

Finishes nicely at "Breakfast Beer"'s anchor -- and is a fun TR from that anchor if you don't have trad gear.

Traditionell 13m
5.5 Fallus

An obscure line, but more interesting than it looks. To the right of "An Easy Stroll" is an obvious roof. Start at the right end of this roof, immediately right of "One Over". Step up onto a small slab just off the ground and climb it to near its right end. Pull directly up and over a small overhang. Continue up, passing over several very small overhangs, then straight up the face to the top.

Traditionell 16m
5.8 Breakfast Beer

Start under the first bolt. Use hidden small crimps and sidepulls to gain the second bolt though an interesting sequence then proceeded through the easier (5.6) mini-roof tiers trending left. Slabby top joins Fallus at last mini-roof. Stick clip recommended -- crux is very low and clipping hold for first bolt is bad for grade.

Be mindful of the potential swing while cleaning this route. Keep an eye on your rope above you and communicate with your belayer.

Erstbegehung: Jim Clark

Sport 16m, 7
5.5 Twinkle Toes

Stand up on the detached triangular block to the right of fallus. Mantle into the gully then sright onto the face and up. Protection tenuous in the middle. Maybe a star if it was clean.

FA probably not me. Its a fairly obvious line that has likely seen previous climbs.

Traditionell
5.10c Melange

Follow the line of bolts through the burly overhanging start on some hidden holds into a precarious mantle. Pull though the juggy roof into some thin cracks. Cruise the slab to the top. First bolt is a difficult clip, particularly if short, stick clip advised.

Erstbegehung: Jim Clark, 23 Okt 2020

Sport 15m, 5
5.8 Cedar Hollow

Look for a 6m long elongated boulder at the base of the cliff, with two cedar trees growing on top. Start directly behind the right (now dead) cedar tree. Face climb straight up 6m to a small overhang. A tricky move on good holds allows one to pull over the overhang moving slightly left. Then easy climbing to the top, now with a bolted anchor.

Cedar Hollow has been cleaned & retro-bolted (3 bolts), with a plaque now labeling it as "Breakfast in Vienna, 5.9 T".

Erstbegehung: D Buck & P Low, 1985

Gemischt trad 15m, 3
5.11a Slippery When Wet

Just right of Breakfast in Vienna is a second bolted line with a faded plaque.

A good candidate for your first 5.11

Originally put up as a rarely climbed mixed route, now retrobolted as sport in hopes it will see more traffic. Two new bolts have been added to replace the need for gear on the easy upper slab. If you wish to climb it in the original style do not use bolts 3 and 5.

Fa/developer unknown.

Sport 15m, 5
5.3 Traps

Start 4.5m right of Cedar Hollow. Follow a small gully up and slightly right from a clearing to an overhang. Proceed up to a pine tree, then up slabs to the top.

Erstbegehung: M Buck & P Low, 1985

Traditionell
5.4 Nameless

Start 10m right of 'Cedar Hollow', where the ground starts to rise, directly underneath the extreme left end of a long roof near the top of the cliff.

Start straight up on good holds, then aim for an obvious cleft in the rock below an obvious vertical crack. Follow this to the roof and traverse to the left to avoid the roof and continue to top.

Now with bolted anchors.

Erstbegehung: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975

Traditionell 18m
5.9 Open Season

Climb the short dihedral to the roof. Escape roof to the right then trend left and up though the black water stain on pocket crimps into easy rails to the anchor.

A significantly harder variation goes 11+ if you pull directly though the roof at the first bolt and stay on the black water stain.

Erstbegehung: Jim Clark, 9 Nov 2020

Sport 4
First Easy Way Down

A 10m wide slab above a high point in the lower trail, with an extensive scree field at its base, is easily climbed along its left edge.

Unbekannt 10m

Zeigt alle 21 Routen.

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