Einträge in Oli's Crag

The highest density of boulder problems in Ontario! Not a destination crag… Only climb here out of desperation.

Sit start at the left-side of the wall. RH start on the white rock and LH start on the good sidepull around the corner. Catch and match the good jug, followed by LH in hidden hold and RH to open crimp (optional). RH to good hold deep in the big hole that you can't see (optional). Finish up on the jug at the top left of the wall.

Worthwhile eliminate traverse - interesting variety of moves for a short traverse. Climbs better than the reverse traverse. Sit start and start as per Pinga's Displeasure to match the jug. Move RH then LH to ledges. Use knee bars to get RH to slopey ledge and LH to nice pinch. RH to good hold, LH to tenuous two finger pinch, RH to good two finger pinch, LH back onto the good hold. Move your feet on and do a big span move out right to a great undercling. Move your feet again and get the good ledge with LH. Match on the jug. Keep your feet off the bottom rail at all times (off limits)

Sit start on good ledge and big pocket. Big dynamic move out right to a good hold with thumb catch. Left hand up to 3 finger shallow pocket, right to the "Wilpena Pinch" wide pinch (or sidepull). Awkward dynamic move to good ledge. Match on a jug at the top to finish. The bottom ledge is out of bounds for this one.

Sit start on the left-most jug (same as "Pinga's Displeasure"). Crunch your way right avoiding any holds above the seam until you get to the start for "Calm the Farm" and then finish up that route. Foot rail is in.

Sit start with hands on white dusty rock. LH to beautiful pocket. Big span move out right to RH sidepull/pinch. Calm the farm and control the barn door while you slap up to LH sloper. Another big span move out right to 2 finger crimp/pinch. Finish up on jug with either hand. Best problem here.

For the board climber. Beta: Start in two pockets and far right foot. See photos for "in" hand and foot holds. Feet follow hands.

Sit start LH positive corner, RH good slot. LH to big sausage pinch, RH big move to wide pinch, LH to the best hold on the wall. RH to sloper. LH far left to crimpy ledge with thumb catch (this hold is loose but still holding for now). RH+match in the big hole. Up and match finishing jugs

Low traverse. Sit start matched on thick sausage hold. Traverse left to the pockets and then launch to the good Pinga's Displeasure jug and finish up that climb. Keep your feet off the bottom ledge but otherwise use any holds you want.

3 move campus board problem. Campus start on the two good pinch jugs in the center of the wall. Campus up LH to slopey jug, campus again RH to 2 finger pinch, and again LH to the finishing jug.

Sit start with LH in the low slot, RH on a good ledge. Reachy move to LH jug with thumb catch, RH 2 finger pinch, then heel hook right and finish LH on the jug. Don't use the bottom rail - V0 if you put your feet on the bottom rail.

Sit start. Keep your feet off the bottom rail at all times (off limits). Sit start with LH in the low slot, RH on the razor crimp. Hold on and bring your RH up to good hold, LH to little ledge. RH to lumpy crimp. LH to a tenuous 2 finger gaston intermediate and bump LH to a good gaston and finish with RH at the jug.

Hope you brought enough pulleys. Sit start LH on razor crimp, RH on low crimp. Hold on tight and hoist your bum off the ground and catch the RH lumpy crimp. LH to the carved out crimp, RH to the 3 finger pocket crimp, LH to the grainy crimp, and finish up RH on jug. Don't use the bottom rail - V3 if you put your feet on the bottom rail since the first move is the crux.

First problem here done in snowy running shoes. Sit start on the two obvious holds near the right-side of the wall. Right hand up to good ledge, left hand in the surprisingly perfect undercling, right hand to slanted ledge, left hand to the top ledge

Stand start on the jug out right and do the exact reverse sequence to finish at the starting holds of Pinga's Displeasure.

Stand start right to left high traverse along the jug rail, finishing at the top left finishing jug on the wall. A good warmup.

Sit start on the left side of the outcrop 10m to the right of the main wall. Cross over to the right to get in position with chossy feet to a big deadpoint or dyno to a big jug from a sharp RH sidepull and good LH ledge. Can be topped out.