Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
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So 2. Jun 2024 - Lac Tucker | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Birthday Bunduru - mit Chieko H | 120m | ||||
5.10 | ★★ Belly Full of Bug Bites - mit Chieko H | 110m | ||||
5.10 | ★★ Belly Full of Bug Bites - mit Chieko H | 110m | ||||
5.8 | ★ P3 variation (V3) - mit Chieko H | 30m | ||||
5.10 | ★★ Belly Full of Bug Bites - mit Chieko H | 110m | ||||
5.9 | ★★ P2 variation (V2) - mit Chieko H | 20m | ||||
So 1. Okt 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.9 schwer | ★★ Hanibal Lecter - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.5 schwer | ★ Diedre Maboul - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 17m | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Colonel Kirtz - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 10m | ||||
Wasn't feeling it today, retreated after 2nd piece.
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5.9 schwer | ★★ Hanibal Lecter - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 10m | ||||
5.4 | ★ Poussinet - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 55m | ||||
Pitches can be linked and lowered with a 60 m rope
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Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Les autres bières La fourmilière | ||||||
5.4 ~5.5 | ★ C'est fourmidable - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Graded 5.5 in the printed guidebook
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5.5 | ★ La zizanie des fourmis - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 14m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.3 schwer | ★ Bill le Crapaud - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 12m | ||||
5.10a schwer | ★★ Pathfinder - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 25m, 8 | ||||
Crux at 2nd half (upper crack) with thin holds. Finger lock is the way.
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Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Bière | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Deuxième bière - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 35m, 8 | ||||
5.4 | ★ Premiere biere - mit xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 35m, 8 | ||||
So 24. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★ Crocodile | 25m, 3 | ||||
Top (past visible crack) was very dirty, lots of moss/lichen on the slab. Only anchor bolts found were very high, at the trees. 30m with rope stretch can barely be lowered on 60m.
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So 24. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Hippocampe | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ L'hypothenuse - mit Chieko H | 14m, 8 | ||||
Super fun crack with 1 or 2 thin moves at top if traversing left to anchor station (alternate anchor station on right thru top of crack). Can be climbed as sport crack with extended draws clipped to left bolt line
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5.10b | Risshandschuh ★★★ L'hippocampe - mit Chieko H | 20m | ||||
Crux in middle/upper 3rd right before crack splits. Combo of fist and hand crack sizes. Placed a couple extra #2 s
Consider extra piece at lower bolted belay station to protect upward pull.
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Sa 23. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Boite a Surprise | ||||||
5.9 schwer | N'importe qui! - mit Anna | 17m, 5 | ||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★★ Le Pirate Maboule | 16m, 5 | ||||
Fun climb, the top 1/3 esp above last bolt has some thin moves and I feel is closer to a 10-
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5.8 schwer | ★★★ La gardienne | 17m, 7 | ||||
Fantastic climb, tricky moves on the upper third. 2 larger glue-in bolts at top for anchor (cannot be seen from ground)
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Sa 23. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Les autres bières La fourmilière | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Le fourmi-lion fait le ménage | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Atomas: la fourmi atomique | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.3 | C'est fourmi-fourmidable | 14m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Parmis les fourmis | 14m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ La cigale et la fourmi | 16m, 5 | ||||
Fr 22. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.5 schwer | ★ Diedre Maboul - mit phong | 17m | ||||
Not quite a crack climb, not quite a face climb
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5.4 | ★ Poussinet - mit phong | 55m | ||||
Can follow crack leftward past 1st anchors to 2nd set of anchors at top (near steel cable). Can link both pitches and lower with single 60m rope
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Fr 22. Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan - mit bianca | 20m, 6 | ||||
2 bolts on left side for anchor, or follow.left crack further up (mixed) to upper anchor
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Sa 5. Aug 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.6 schwer |
★★ Magical Mystery Tour
- mit
Arbin Gurung, pymmer
1
Vorstieg durch
Arbin Gurung
2
| 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Def magical mystery! First pitch (and belay) is Trad, 2nd pitch is now sport, plus maybe 1 piece of pro. Went too high on 2nd pitch and had to downclimb to the correct line.
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5.7 | ★★★ Peggy - mit Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Best Trad route on the wall
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5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete - mit Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.3 schwer | ★ Back to the Wall - mit Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
5.3 ~5.4 | ★ Main Corner - mit Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
5.7 | ★ One Up - mit Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
So 23. Jul 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - mit Chieko H | 23m, 8 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - mit Chieko H | 30m, 10 | ||||
Top-roped this one for exfil with the backpack + kitchen sink
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fun as always! Some key crimp holds that aren't as visible from below
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5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | |||
Fr 14. Jul 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Peggy - mit phil, ahmad | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete - mit phil, ahmad | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.3 schwer | ★ Back to the Wall - mit phil, ahmad | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- mit
PN, Chieko H
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - mit PN, Chieko H | 210m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 21. Mai 2023 - Mont Ste-Marie | ||||||
Rock Area | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Parnoosh Party | 12m | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Parnoosh Pizzaz | 12m, 1 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Parnoosh Paradox | 12m, 1 | ||||
5.10- G | ★★★ Truth Seeker | 23m | ||||
Fr 28. Apr 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Peggy | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.7 | ★ One Up | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.9 X ~5.10a | ★ Little Yellow Fucker — 3 Versuche | 10m | ||||
I'd say 5.10- because the first few moves are quite strenuous, crimpy, balancy and feel a little higher
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So 16. Apr 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Piton Highway - mit Arb | 25m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete - mit Arb | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.3 schwer | ★ Back to the Wall - mit Arb | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
5.3 ~5.4 | ★ Main Corner - mit Arb | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
5.7 | ★ One Up - mit Arb | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Block - mit Arb | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 10. Apr 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.1 | K5 | |||||
5.7 | ★ One Up | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Block | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
5.3 | ★ Broken Corner | 9m | ★ Gut | |||
Di 6. Sep 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | |||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Need 3-4 pieces of larger pro (#2-#3 Camalot)
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Hidden half crimps on the pink crux
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5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | ||||
Climbed out with pack as a single pitch. Way too much rope drag to do that again. WATERMELON-SIZED ROCKS LOOSE halfway up first pitch, on right face. They're sitting in shallow dirt and will come out on the next pull
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So 28. Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ C'est beau, man! | 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.9 | ★★ Chasseur de primes | 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Crack start
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5.10c | ★★ Le côté obscur de la force | 27m, 11 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Révélation | 6 | ||||
Sa 27. Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Surprise sur prises | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.5 | ★ SAXE o’fun | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.6 | Les séparatistes | 17m | ||||
5.7 | Sèche tes pleurs | 17m | ||||
5.6 | ★ Je s’appellais Grout | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Début d’un temps nouveau | 17m, 7 | ||||
Fr 19. Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Révélation | 6 | ||||
There are no more bolts beyond the 6 you see from the ground. Bring a piece or two of pro for the remaining runout crack.
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5.10b | ★★ C'est beau, man! | 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Attempted via right face. Ran out of good feet after clipping 4th bolt.
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Fr 19. Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Surprise sur prises | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.5 | ★ SAXE o’fun | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.7 | Sèche tes pleurs | 17m | ||||
5.6 | ★ Je s’appellais Grout | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Clair de lune | 17m, 7 | ||||
5.8 | ★ The Dawn | 17m, 6 | ||||
Do 2. Jun 2022 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Cave Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Al on the Run | 8m, 4 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Security | 8m, 2 | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Neruda | 8m | ||||
Do 2. Jun 2022 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ Bolt Line 1 | 25m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.3 | ★ Ground Zero | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 2. Jun 2022 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ Route B | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
5.5 | ★★ Route C | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
5.5 | ★ Route A | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fr 25. Jun 2021 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Bolt Line 3 | 25m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Combo of lower slab and upper jugs/cutouts
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5.3 | ★ Ground Zero | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fun warm up & xina's first lead!
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5.6 | ★★ Bolt Line 1 | 25m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
First few moves a little awkward but spent a lot of time figuring out area between bolt 2&3. Rest is straightforward
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Fr 25. Jun 2021 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Reaper Buttress | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Jugness | 8m | ★ Gut | |||
2x eye bolts at top (glue ins?)
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5.8 | ★ Mr Toady's Dihedral | 8m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fun and harder at the crux than it looks
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