Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
阳朔 Yangshuo 太空站地区 Space Buttress Crags 矮山 Low Mountain | |||||
5.11a | ★ I forgot the name
This has become P1 of Monkey King. Erstbegehung: GuGu, 2009 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★ The Monkey King - Pitch 1 Only
THIS ROUTE DOESN'T EXIST Erstbegehung: Paul Collis & Liu Tao, 2004 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Monkey King
1
-
20m
2
5.9
12m
3
5.10a
20m
4
5.10b
25m
5
5.8
15m
The 1st pitch USED TO be a 5.10a, starting by climbing a dead tree at the base of the climb. The tree has been removed and replaced by the Via-ferrata entrance. (DO NOT CLIMB THE VIA FERRATA W/O PERMISSION). The new route uses Forgotten Name as the first pitch, with P2-P5 remaining unchanged. The route and anchors stop approximately 50m before the top of the tower. Adding a tick (logging an ascent) of this route requires using the link up feature and listing Forgotten Name in place of the first pitch. Erstbegehung: Paul Collis, Liu Tao, Sylvain Langris & Oliver Balmer, 2004 | 92m, 5 | |||
5.10a | The Naked Ape (TR)
THIS ROUTE DOESN'T EXIST Erstbegehung: Paul Collis & Liu Tao, 2004 | 22m | |||
5.10a | ★ Via de L'Rosa
GONE...Doesnt Exist Erstbegehung: The Israelis, 2004 | 5 | |||
5.10b | ★ Via de L'Rosa alternate P1
GONE...Doesn't Exist | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Chinese Rose
1
5.10a
28m
2
5.8
15m
3
5.10a
30m
4
5.9
18m
5
5.10b
28m
From the ViaFerrata access, go right 30m and find a small plaque. these 2 routes start here. Erstbegehung: Kolon Alpine School, Nov 2015 | 120m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★ Korean Rose
1
5.9
27m
2
5.10b
32m
3
5.9
17m
4
5.8
20m
5
5.10c
21m
6
5.7
17m
From the ViaFerrata access, go right 30m and find a small plaque. these 2 routes start here. From half way up the 4th pitch the route veers left through some bushes which may be hard to see. Erstbegehung: Kolon Alpine School, Nov 2015 | 130m, 6 | |||
5.8 | ★★ L'Echo des Montagnes
1
5.8
25m
2
5.7
40m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.7
25m
5
5.8
30m
Erstbegehung: Sylvain Langris & Olivier Balmer, 2004 | 150m, 5 | |||
5.12a/b | 直上元宵
张勇在元宵节开辟了某条5.11a的延长线,未FA Erschliesser: 张勇, 26 Feb 2021 | 28m | |||
阳朔 Yangshuo 太空站地区 Space Buttress Crags 图腾柱 Totem Pole | |||||
5.11a | ★ New Men Are Coming
Splits left above P1 of Le Nitrac. Erstbegehung: Jonas Bruchhagen & Richard Grob | 20m, 9 | |||
5.10b | Le Nitrac
1
5.10b
20m
2
5.10a
17m
3
5.10a
17m
4
5.9
17m
First pitch goes up then traverses right. There will be some loose bits of rock but its manageable. climb slow and deliberate. 2nd and 3rd pitches are sharp but enjoyable climbing. last pitch has a couple bolts run out on easy terrain with an anchor very far to the right. route does not top out the mountain. Erstbegehung: Richard & Jonas, 2012 Erste freie Begeh.: 2012 | 71m, 4 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Bald Eagles
Erstbegehung: Gao Qing, Paul Collis & B Keaty | 20m, 10 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Trail of Tears
Erstbegehung: Paul Collis, M Warner, TonTon & B Keaty | 25m, 12 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Fire Water
This route starts 10m up the wall. need to walk around left and into the cave. Belay from cave window in the center of the crag. Erstbegehung: Matt Warner, Paul Collis & Bob Keaty | 25m, 10 | |||
5.10c | ★★ A Man Called Ma
Erstbegehung: Matt Warner & Paul Collis | 20m, 10 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Smoke Signals
Erstbegehung: Paul Collis & Tyson Wallace | 17m, 8 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Skin Walker
Erstbegehung: Tyson Wallace & Paul Collis | 17m, 8 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Tomahawk
Erstbegehung: Paul Collis & Tyson Wallace | 17m, 9 | |||
阳朔 Yangshuo 太空站地区 Space Buttress Crags 龙城 Dragon City | |||||
5.10a | ★ Caterpillars in My Underwear
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang, 2013 | 30m, 13 | |||
5.10c | ★ Dreyer Eyes
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 30m, 14 | |||
5.10d | ★ 9.8066 m/s
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 30m, 13 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Where's the Beef?
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 25m, 13 | |||
5.12a | ★ Wall Street
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 25m, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Fashion Dragon
fun climbing powerful at the end Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 25m, 10 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Little Pussy
Shared anchor with Fashion Dragon Erstbegehung: William Chan, Nov 2014 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ 愤怒的小鸟 Angry Bird
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 25m, 13 | |||
5.13c | Dougs Dungeon
Erstbegehung: Dave Gliddon Erschliesser: dawei | 30m, 15 | |||
5.12c | ★★ Double Dragon
Erstbegehung: Dave Gliddon | 30m, 13 | |||
5.10a | ★ Stairway to Heaven
Erstbegehung: Dave Gliddon & Adam GoHard | 19m, 6 | |||
Alors On Danse (Let's Dance)
extension to "stairway to heaven"...OPEN project Erschliesser: Dave Gliddon & Adam GoHard | 35m, 16 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Dave's Dungeon
Erschliesser: Dave Gliddon | 18m, 7 | |||
5.13c | ★ Dungeon Master
Extension of Dave's Dungeon Erstbegehung: Dave Gliddon | 40m, 16 | |||
5.10b | ★★ 羊归山 Sheep, come back to the mountain!
Erschliesser: Jerry zhong Erstbegehung: AntonioAnuk | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Lap Dance
may be the easiest 11b in yangshuo.. more like 10d/11a Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 20m, 8 | |||
5.13b | 金刚舞 Jin Gang Wu
extension to "Lap Dance". The route name means to Dance like King Kong. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang, Jan 2015 | 18m | |||
5.11b | ★★ 宇宙最简单的线The easiest route in the universe
New route. Lots of fun. Erschliesser: Jerry zhong Erstbegehung: 王宇, 1 Apr 2022 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★ The Hardest Route in the Universe
Erstbegehung: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang, 2010 | 17m | |||
5.12c | ★★ Finger in the Nose (Wa Bi Kong)
Erstbegehung: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang | 25m, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★ Dreadlock
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 18m, 8 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ 龙城岁月 Dragon City Years
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 25m, 13 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Lexington Steel
Erstbegehung: Paul Qiu & Tyson Wallace, 2010 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Attack Run
The grade continues to drop because in all honesty, its not difficult. Originally given 5.12C Erstbegehung: Dave Gliddon | 30m, 12 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Mountain Men
Erstbegehung: Matty & Justin | 30m, 12 | |||
5.10c | ★ Sister Bai
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 30m, 13 | |||
5.12c | The Green Hornet
Erstbegehung: DaWei & BaYue, 2013 | 30m, 12 | |||
5.12d | City of Dreams
Erschliesser: Logan Barber | 30m, 10 | |||
5.8 | Kill Me
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 20m, 9 | |||
5.10c | And Love Said No
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Bamboo House
Erstbegehung: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang | 25m, 9 | |||
5.10b | ★★ 超人归来 Superman Returns
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace, 2012 | 25m, 12 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Calves On Fire
Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 20m, 10 | |||
5.7 | The Argument!!
This route is supposedly located about 100m to the left of the main crag. Its possibly abandoned? has a rope and draws hanging for about 8 years now... | ||||
5.10b | Nine Orders of Frustration
This route is supposedly located about 100m to the left of the main crag. Its possibly abandoned? has a rope and draws hanging for about 8 years now... Erstbegehung: Tyson Wallace, Jul 2014 | ||||
5.11a | Beheaded unicorns
This route is supposedly located about 100m to the left of the main crag. Its possibly abandoned? has a rope and draws hanging for about 8 years now... Erstbegehung: Paul Qiu, Jul 2014 | ||||
阳朔 Yangshuo 太空站地区 Space Buttress Crags 驼头山 The Camel's Head | |||||
5.10b | ★ Oasis
The overhang is the crux. This route is dirty with some loose rock. Helmets are advised. Erstbegehung: P Collis, B Keaty & T Ton | 20m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Sheik Yahbouti
To access this route climb Oasis then move right along the ledge to the start. Jugs and jamming. Caution, loose rock potential. Helmets are advised. Erstbegehung: P Collis, B Keaty & T Ton | 18m | |||
阳朔 Yangshuo 田家河 TianJia River 新世界 Brave New World | |||||
5.12b | Over Heated Brain
boulder problem then easier, go around the block to access the route. Erschliesser: Rachel Reimer, 2011 | 25m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Dead Puppy
go around the block to access the route. fun route, maybe a little dirty Erschliesser: Rachel Reimer Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang, 2011 | 25m, 12 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Curse of the Screaming Rat
3rd route at the left end of the crag. Erstbegehung: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang, 2011 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ City in the Sky
4th route at the left end of the crag. best route at the crag...long Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace, 2011 | 35m, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Steep Street
Sustained Erstbegehung: P Collis, 2005 | 22m, 7 | |||
5.11a | ★ Brigitte
Low crux at bulge. Erstbegehung: Paul Collis & Simon Dilks, 2005 | 20m, 7 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Surgery
Lower half is great. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace, 2011 | 30m, 12 | |||
5.10a | ★ Pussy and the Mouse
The short chimney. Erstbegehung: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang, 2011 | 14m, 5 | |||
5.10a | Erosion
3rd route on the right side of the crag. Lots and lots of loose rock, not recommend! Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 30m, 12 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Recreational Sex
2nd route on the right side of the crag. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10b | Command Economy
1st route on the right side of the crag. Erstbegehung: Qiu Jiang | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★★ The Witch Woman of the Rock
A traditional line of continuous crack climbing located on the prow of the buttress. This is a mulitpitch climb that goes to the top of the wall. there are bolted anchors, several of which can be skipped. One set of cams BD .3 through 4 is a good bet and a set of nuts. The last pitch is the crux and has been upgraded. best traditional route in yangshuo. Erstbegehung: P Collis & K Pisetzky, 2006 | 90m, 5 | |||
阳朔 Yangshuo 田家河 TianJia River 竹帘洞 Bamboo Cave | |||||
5.10c | ★★ 杨杨加油
First route far left side of the cave entrance behind some bamboo. Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 14m, 6 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Bamboo Warrior 武士
Erstbegehung: Jerry zhong, 2020 | 14m, 5 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Chuck Norris
inside and starts on a wet slopey ledge. maybe the shortest but most interesting route in the cave Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 11m, 4 | |||
5.7 | Bamboo Shoot 竹笋
Erstbegehung: Jerry zhong, 2020 | 11m, 4 | |||
5.10c | Heads or Tails 顾头顾尾
Erstbegehung: 陈信 | 11m, 4 | |||
5.13b | ★ Ready Player One 玩家一号
This route starts from the anchor of Heads or Tails and traverses the entire cave roof. There are a couple of no fall zones and there might be some loose rock so be careful with it Erschliesser: Xinge, 2021 Erste freie Begeh.: Eben Farnworth, 1 Dez | 25m, 13 | |||
5.8 | ★ Into the 3rd dimension
the simple chimney opposite Chuck Norris. at the top you can walk through a hole and access the anchor of Sturgeon. Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12a | ★★ 卧虎藏龙 Hidden Dragon
洞穴中央,12a的建议爬法在最后一把翻顶,提前翻顶难度只有11~ —Jerry Erschliesser: Jerry zhong, Jul 2020 | 15m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Sturgeon
starts in the depths of the cave. Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 17m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Chalky boobs 波霸
The chimney in the middle of the pit. Erstbegehung: Andrew | 20m, 8 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Go hard frenchy
Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 16m, 8 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Chinstrap 下巴扣
variation to Frenchy with some body torquing moves. fun and intense. Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 16m, 8 | |||
Potato Chip 薯片
Erstbegehung: 七月, 2020 | 9m, 4 | ||||
5.11b | ★ I'm too sexy
Loose rock?? be careful near the top...an out of control fall may not be good for your cranium. We purposely took the fall several times with no consequesnces but its intimidating and you will definetly be overgripped! HAHAHA Erstbegehung: Andrew | 20m | |||
5.8 | 新线
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ Brown Gunk
While entering the cave, the wall on your right has easy climbing off the ground. Begins to the left of the first quickdraw, before traversing right and crossing over Flying The Bird. Stimulating lead for beginners, and excellent warm up route for more experienced climbers. Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 20m, 6 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Flying the Bird
The route starts at the blunt arete on the left side of the gorgeous outside wall. goes straight up then crosses left over Brown Gunk. Erstbegehung: Andrew Hedesh & Matt Krakowski, 2012 | 25m, 12 | |||
5.11b | ★ 谁完成都可以
Erschliesser: 七月 | 20m, 10 | |||
5.11a | ★★ 生龙活虎 Move Like a Dragon
Climb up to the ledge for a nice rest with a good view before a committing mid-section and overhung top-out Erschliesser: Jerry, 2020 Erstbegehung: 黄翠, 2020 | 17m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★ 大腿痛
Erschliesser: Jerry, 2020 Erstbegehung: 阿磊, 2020 | 17m, 9 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Kneebar 少年
Start on either Big Leg Pain or Big Thumb and follow the line of draws squeezed in the middle Erstbegehung: 陈信, 2020 | 20m, 9 | |||
5.11c | ★★ 大拇指
Erstbegehung: Jerry, 2020 | 16m, 7 | |||
阳朔 Yangshuo 田家河 TianJia River 大枪 Big Gun Wall | |||||
5.10b | Scar
Located around to the left of the main face. This run out route was used to access the anchors of the main face during development. Erschliesser: Lizi/Paul.Q. Erstbegehung: Paul.Q | 12m, 3 | |||
5.10a | ★ Three Little Bird
Erschliesser: LinYun/Paul.Q Erstbegehung: Paul.Q | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Batman
An interesting roof leads to some delicate face climbing. Erschliesser: ZongYong/Paul.Q Erstbegehung: Paul.Q | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Turn Light
Erschliesser: Wuyi/Paul.Q Erstbegehung: Paul.Q | 20m, 9 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Lonely Marley
Erschliesser: LuochunHua/Paul.Q Erstbegehung: Paul.Q | 23m, 9 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Mr Big Gun
Erschliesser: LuochunHua/Paul.Q Erstbegehung: FFA: Paul.Q | 25m, 11 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Shot
Erschliesser: LuochunHua/Paul.Q Erstbegehung: Paul.Q | 25m, 9 | |||
阳朔 Yangshuo 白山地区 White Mountain Crags 驼背山 Humpback Mountain | |||||
5.12a | Old School
From the top of Grandfathered In P3, climb up a short P4 to a small ledge. Then continue straight up and through the overhanging nose with an anchor at the very tip of the prow above you. The route then continues up to join with Grandfathered In at the P5/P6 belay. This pitch is the reason why Grandfathered IN was developed. Overhung, slab, and weird beta... good route. Erschliesser: Andrew Hedesh & matt Krakowski, 2018 Erstbegehung: Tj, 2018 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.11b | mama's backporch
From the top of Grandfathered In P4, traverse left out along the edge of the nose to finish at the belay near the tip. (same belay as for Old School). continue straight up to join grandfathered In. Erschliesser: Flo Vogel, 2018 |