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阳朔 Yangshuo

Yangshuo town is located near the city of Guilin, Guanxi Province, southern China. The area is a major tourist destination and has become famous around the world with climbers because of its limestone Karst formations. With 1000+ sport routes the area has become the most popular climbing destination in China.

http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/yangshuo-rock-climbing/

WHEN TO CLIMB: The prime climbing season is mid-October through mid-March when the chances of dry weather and good temps is the best. Sometimes the climbing season will start a little early, end of September, or run long way into January. The weather in South China changes yearly...and so the above seasons are a historical average.

HOW TO GET THERE: The best way to reach Yangshuo is to fly internationally to a major Chinese city. Guangzhou is the closest. Then fly domestically into Guilin. From the airport, catch a shuttle bus or taxi to yangshuo.

Alternatively, you can get a high speed train. Price is similar to airfare but convenience and comfort may be worth it. Your destination will either be Yangshuo or Guilin. From guilin, you will need to take a bus to yangshuo. Purchase train tickets from www.ctrip.com before you arrive in china.

LOCAL TRANSPORTATION: The best way to reach the crag is either by scooter or ebike. If you're fit enough and love cycling, a push bike is good. 95% of crags are within 15km of town center.

Keep in mind that an ebike is much cheaper (25/30RMB a day) and lighter than a scooter (70RMB+ a day), but it cannot go as far nor as fast. It is highly recommended to purchase the Digital Guide from Rakkup with a GPS navigation system.

ADVICE AND TIPS: WeChat is king in China, download it before you arrive.

Ideally, it is best to network with local climbers or those who know the way to the crag. The best way to navigate is by using Rakkup's digital guide and the GPS navigation system.

https://rakkup.com/guidebook/yangshuo-rock-climbing

遇龙河地区 YuLong River

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River
邻居山 The Neighborhood

Sunny winter crag at five minutes ride from downtown

遇龙河地区 YuLong River 邻居山 The Neighborhood
5.11a 欧美达英文书院 Omeida Language College

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.12a 肥子米粉 Fat Guy Rice Noodles

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11b 狗窝 House of Dog

Same start as Fat Guy Rice Noodles.

5.11c 风拂柳枝 Whispering Willows

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.12c 黄真小子 Huang Zen Guy

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11d 表哥的酒吧 Cuz'n Joe's

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.12b 加油站山 Sunoco Hill

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11a 乌节路 Orchard Lane

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River
老铁山 Lao Tie Mountain

Lao Tie Shan is a small South-East facing crag close to town.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River 老铁山 Lao Tie Mountain
5.10c No name 1

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11a Lil'Dumpling

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.10b No Name 2

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.9 No Name 3

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River
大屋檐 Dag Crag

Just a few steps away from White Cliff. If you are climbing at that sector make sure to check out No Bamboo Rafting Today which is by many considered the best 5.12A in Yangshuo

遇龙河地区 YuLong River 大屋檐 Dag Crag
5.10c 扑通 Plop

this is not a warmup route. unpleasant...

5.12a 不坐竹筏 No Bamboo Rafting Today

You should climb this route. nothing else needs to be said.

5.12c 钢管舞 Tufa Reality

If both pitches are climbed without a rest at the middle anchor, the route is graded at 5.13a.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River
蝌蚪山 Baby Frog Buttress

Excellent crag with a stack of low to mid range graded climbs from 5 - 6b+.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River 蝌蚪山 Baby Frog Buttress
5.9 事半功倍 Sting in the Tail

Good Climb but short. position on tufa is excellent for such an easy route. If you climb it on the face... the grade should be easier.

5.10c 傻子 Shazi

Long and Good. small holds

5.8 青蛙特工 Frog March

maybe the best route for first time climbers anywhere in the world.

5.9 骗子 Liar

Worth a shot... kind of punches you in the face, exactly like when you realize your friend is lying to you.

5.10d 世界末日 Judgement Day

hard for the grade, but totally worth it. The tufa up high stays wet longer than usual.

5.11a 青蛙马戏团 Kermits Hopping Bouncy Circus

Crap route or at least kind of scary. careful... could be missing a couple hangers. The route doesnt climb the beautiful upper wall, instead it climbs the massive crack on the right.

5.10c 青蛙王子 Frogs Traverse

Magnifique

5.9 小蝌蚪第一段 Baby Frog Pitch 1

Really? a trad route at this crag?

5.9 小蝌蚪第二段 Baby Frog Pitch 2

The crag is under contract by the guiding outfit near White Cliff. No worries, as long as you aren't taking customers to this crag everything should be fine.

5.9 小青蛙找妈妈 The Lost Baby Frog

The crag is under contract by the guiding outfit near White Cliff. No worries, as long as you aren't taking customers to this crag everything should be fine.

5.8 皇后驾到 Fruit Flavoured Frogs

super fun and not difficult with varied climbing

5.10a 青蛙柯密特 Kermit

Same start as Ribbit, it moves left

5.8 蝈蝈 Ribbit

Same start as Kermit, it goes straight up

5.9 癞蛤蟆 Toad in the Hole

The crag is under contract by the guiding outfit near White Cliff. No worries, as long as you aren't taking customers to this crag everything should be fine.

5.10b 滚石 Rolling Stone

The crag is under contract by the guiding outfit near White Cliff. No worries, as long as you aren't taking customers to this crag everything should be fine.

5.9 飞龙 Dragon Fly

The crag is under contract by the guiding outfit near White Cliff. No worries, as long as you aren't taking customers to this crag everything should be fine.

5.10b 蛙在边绿 Frogs on Edge

NOT worth it! anchor is in bad position with a bunch of rope drag. hard deadpoint in otherwise ok climbing.

5.7 土豆 Potato

lead-it or scramble up through the worm hole to set a top rope. On the Pilar to the right of the crag.

5.7 西红柿 Tomato

lead-it or scramble up through the worm hole to set a top rope. On the Pilar to the right of the crag.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River
白岩 The White Cliff

The White Cliff is a pleasant crag located in the countryside near the Yu Long river. The White Cliff crag consists of three areas, South West Face, North West Face and Car Park Face. The routes on the South West Face are on excellent rock, whilst some routes on the North West Face may contain some loose rock. The South West Face stays in shade until mid day, the North West Face is shaded until late in the day and the Car Park Face has afternoon shade.

The business operation has been abandoned although their "upgrades" will remain with the rock a very long time. FYI... DO NOT BLAME the association. If you are in China, you know that business is business.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River 白岩 The White Cliff
open project Wilsons Wall

Open Project. Sparingly Bolted. On the far left of the Carpark Face.

This crag is accessible from the parking lot. There's a little path on the right side of the Public

This crag is accessible from the parking lot. There's a little path on the right side of the Public toilet. Walk your way up to the belay ledge

5.11b 你好,可口可乐 Hola Hola, Coca Cola

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11b 白巧克力 Chocolate/Blanco Suizo

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11b 菲尼克斯 Phoenix B.V.

Follow the white tufa. Exit direct or to the right.

5.11a 湿乎乎 Wet Nelly

If dry climb the tufa on the left. If wet stay right.

5.11a 你好!外国人!Hello! Wai Guo Ren

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11b 降级 Misconduct

Shares a similar start to the climb on it's left then heads right up the huge tufa.

5.12c 赎罪 Redemption

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11d 重生 Resurrection

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Main wall directly accessible from the road

Main wall directly accessible from the road

5.11a 占有 Possession

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.12a 殴打罪 Aggravated Assault

Long long route with a lower off anchor at half height. The full route goes all the way to the top of the wall.

白墙右 White Wall Right
5.12b C Jerry’s arete

On the left side of Skullduggery & Anaphylaxis

5.10c 过敏性反应第一段 Skullduggery & Anaphylaxis pitch 1

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.10c 过敏性反应第二段 Skullduggery & Anaphylaxis pitch 2

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.10d 蜻蜓 Dragonfly

Everyone that climbs it says it's way harder than the grade

5.12b 蜻蛉 Damselfly

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.12a 芝加哥公共电台 Chicago Public Radio

Intraspective, introverted, internomical and last but not least intergalactic!!

5.11d 服药过量 Overdose

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11a 固醇王 Steroid King

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11d 武士道 Samurai Chivalry

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Take the dirt road on the right side of White Wall, the crag will immediately appear on your left s

Take the dirt road on the right side of White Wall, the crag will immediately appear on your left side. Walk your way up to the belay ledge

5.13a 最后的心跳 Palpitation

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.13c 刀片 Blade

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.12b 联系不上 Missed Connection

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11d 圣诞快乐 Merry Christmas Birt Bacharach

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.12d 脚启动 Kickstarter

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

5.11b 一对一 Mono Yi Mono

Good quality.

5.11a 肢体语言 Body Language

Excellent route.

5.11c 螳螂攀 Screaming Mantis

A new route on the right side of the South West Face. Fun climbing to a stout, thin crux near the top.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River
龙牙山 Dragon's Tooth

The Dragon’s Tooth is a pleasant, small east facing crag with a handful of easy short routes. It is situated next to the YuLong River with a nice swimming hole.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River 龙牙山 Dragon's Tooth
5.7 Smaug

Short and scruffy. Ignore this route. Dirty with loose rock and with NO BOLTS!!! You can only set a top rope from the nearby route. Not worth it

5.9 埃利奥特龙 Elliot the Dragon

A new bolt has been added to the bottom, no longer run out.

5.8 非林佛龙 Felinfoel

Nice climb on good holds.

5.9 偷偷摸摸的龙 Sneaky Dragon

Interesting climb with a few good moves.

5.8 Shortstack

This is a new route on the left of "Puff the magic dragon", it starts stepping on a high ledge.

5.8 魔法龙 Puff the Magic Dragon

The best climb at the crag but much harder then the grade suggests.

The last bolt before the anchor, there are two options, a bit of rope loop or a bolt. Either works.

5.9 火舌 Orange Flame

The area was contracted by a local company in 2017. free climbers are still allowed to access it but please do so with respect.

5.10d new route 2

This new route has been added between Orange Flame and Dragon's Lair. It starts inside the cave.

5.10b 龙宫 Dragon's Lair

The area was contracted by a local company in 2017. free climbers are still allowed to access it but please do so with respect.

5.10d 想入非非 Winged Fantasy

The area was contracted by a local company in 2017. free climbers are still allowed to access it but please do so with respect.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River
流浪谷 Dingo's Dell

Dingo's Dell is a crag with only 2 routes. The crag shady from mid day onwards, is conveniently located in town, directly behind a seven story apartment block. stay away.

遇龙河地区 YuLong River 流浪谷 Dingo's Dell
5.9 Free

A little bit pumpy with steep moves at the top.

5.10a Kwai Lehr / Happy

A few tricky moves makes this climb interesting for the grade.

白沙地区 BaiSha

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

白沙地区 BaiSha
白沙堡 Baishapu

A shady crag featuring a variety of routes on tufas, amazing pockets and technical crimps. Sitting next to a citrus plantation and overlooking a valley, the area is peaceful and picturesque.

白沙地区 BaiSha 白沙堡 Baishapu
5.11b 敲响钟乳 Tufa Crescendo

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

5.11a 新生力量 Rising Force

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

5.10c 小心为上 Prudence

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

5.10a 龙抬头Ascension

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

5.9 隔壁老张 Mr Zhang's Neighborhood

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

5.11a 万物生长 Everything Grows

A tricky start leads to a diabolical finish

5.12c 凌云谷 Enshrouded Valley

A nice route with a high crux. This line wanders around a bit, don't get too caught up trying to follow the line of bolts directly.

5.11d 七月的学校 Qi Yue's School

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

5.11b 人鱼公主 Mermaid Princess

A super adventure on great holds and fun movements. Don't be put off by the chossy start.

5.11a 穷的没钱做坏事 Poor But Not Guilty

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

5.11b 熟的无法做情侣 Eager Beaver Eater

Please take care not to damage the citrus trees on your way to the crag.

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