Begehungen in Europe als verschiedene Ticktypen von Vanessa Wills

Well I top roped through the crux with a high first clip, though took a couple of goes. Feels a bit contrived away from some slightly better holds.

Had to stray onto the 7a to get the bottom section clean which included a full on dead point. Super hard moves. The second half dihedral was more grade 21.

Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better

Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below

The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!

Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.

Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.

Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky

Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.

Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka

The amount of glue around the flake made me nervous.

Nice steep flake to start then cool pocket sequence up high

Thouroughly engaging incipient finger crack and pockets

Full value

A bit of bolted crack climbing, then a super reachy crux ( or mcdougall to arete).

More awesome pockets with no polish

Alt pitches, led evens. Cold when the sun left, then hit by hail after getting off ( good timing really).

Got scared on the first go and downclimbed and sat on third bolt. Lovely technical climbing and not polished.

Alt leads, I did odd. Crux pitch felt pretty easy, mostly a stemming/ jamming problem despite having to rescue draws for some locals who were trying to do kaiokume and got on this by mistake. All pitches had something to recommend them except pitch 1.

For me a big dyno to o hidden pocket. I had better feet later.

Was taking things too casually on the super jugs

I mcdougalled on the lead so can’t claim a flash. Did the direct version after much thinking as it’s all weird lay always. Shame it’s escapable

Quite tricky boulder problem, i had to do double underclings

Not too hard

Got leg stuck in a big pocket kneebar and couldn’t get it out without some help from belayer. A bit of a pump warm up, we miscounted.

First 3 pitches only to see how the cruxes would go ( good). Rain thwarted the whole 21 pitch attempt. We may try again.

An in your face warm up.

Long move above 4 th bolt. I couldn’t commit without long draw for preclipping. Nice varied climbing. Very technical

Just pitch 1 via large flake then moving left. A bit confused but I gather there’s a new route to the left

Mad dogs and Australians out in the midday sun, 30 degrees. Thankful for breeze and trees at belays. Mostly short cruxes, fun climb. I thought the offwidth on p2 was harder than the wide hands p3.

Nice. Polish quite ok

The rock a bit mankier on this. Some sharp pockets

Led the traverse, talk about sucking exposure. All pitches great.

I like my ankles and my life. Damn midges sent me crazy.

Rather pumpy for such a short route, we were getting midges out and needed to run away.

A beautiful exercise in balance

I didn't like this that much, 3 very reachy bits in between an easy ramp. Made a bit of a cairn to get not he route.

3rd draw clip page is nails and scary. Quite slopey.

Second bolt quite high...nice moves up tufa

Had to extend draw as rope drag getting impossible

Nice, especially the first half.

Stuffed up overhung start sequence. Nice delicate climbing after

Worth the extra effort. Very bouldery.

I kept wanting to follow the flake. Difficult to see and reach hold

Spaced bolts, good moves.

Good moves and 2 overhangs to get over

Draws were on, nice moves but scary looking conglomerate

Thunderstorm coming, and it felt pretty run out

Hard to be sure what's what with select guide. Top pitch only