Begehungen in Europe von Michael Piccolruaz haben sport-cpr oder ascent-date

Great route! Spicy boulder at the top, but the crux for me was the lower boulder. Guess my little change in beta made the upper boulder a bit easier. Perfect autumn days right now. Please let us have a few more!

What an amazing route! And what an amazing way to climb it.

I got to the crag knowing that it would be too hot to try Fugu again so the plan was to try Lichtjahre as my backup project. On the first try bouldering up trying to get the moves dialed I felt awful. My skin hurt already and I felt week. Nevertheless, I decided to give it a send go next try. Unfortunately, my foot slipped on one of the harder moves, but I started immediately again from a few moves lower and could top it from there. That really surprised me but also gave me a lot of confidence that I could actually send it. However I didnt know if it would make sense to give it another try today since my skin was absolutely on the limit and it was already getting dark soon. But the motivation was stronger and so I went for one more try in the darkness with just my headlamp on. I was worried I wouldnt have enough light to properly see all footholds but the little light made me focus much more on climbing perfectly and so I made my way through the route up until clipping the anchor.

Perfect execution, the perfect moment!! One of those moments I will never forget and that gives me a huge motivation boost! Simply amazing!

Interesting route... you gotta go from 0-100% instantly on this one. Really easy first few meters, then straight three really hard and powerful moves, followed by an ok section to a good rest. Then a few more meters to the anchor. Happy it went down on the last try of the day! Double send with Fonsl!

What a line, what a climb!! Wanted to give it a good flash burn but failed on the jump. Checked the rest out, fell on the jump again on my 2nd go, and then did it 3rd go. was close on falling on the final slab though. not that easy...

Tried it one day last year with horrific conditions. Today definitely felt different. Happy with this send. First day on the rope in a while. One more historic Geri testpiece off the list!

Such a good route. Pretty cool moves on amazing holds, none of them even just little sharp. Tried it for two days with different beta, then found the right beta for me today and managed to get an ascent of this beauty two tries after. Syked!

A special climb. Starts off with a powerful compression section followed by a kneebar rest. Then a few more compression moves before you climb into the slab where it gets technical. At the top its compression climbing again on the arete. Found a few kneebars which made my life easier. Still had quite the struggle on the send, since I just couldnt remember which footholds I should use. And that is key on this route! Props to Roli for establishing all these great routes!

#2go Amazing new technical route opened by Markus Haid. Compression climbing in the first half and then crimpy face climbing with dynamic moves on the second part. love it!

Despite my terrible skin the day was quite good. First "Passport..." then this one. Was close but kept it together. Good bouldery route! And definitely a great line!

Geile tour Hans!! RIP

#2go One more 5 star line in Ötztal! Stupidly burned the flash but glad it went second go without too much of an effort. Kingliiiiine!!! Ooon to the next!

Kingline!! Such a great route from Geri!! On to the next

Quite a fight there on the top. Felt amazing. Especially cause those moves don`t really fit my style. oh... also did the 7c+ as the first pitch. happy I don`t have to do that one again! one project down... 500 left

Great route! Burly intro Boulder into powerful resistance climbing. Fell so stupidly on one of the last harder moves on my second go. And when we got back three days after, the boulder was quite wet. But I somhow made it work

I don`t know if I am constantly high, or if these routes are all just so good. What a gem! One of my best onsights for sure.

Ahh I just love this place. So many 5 star lines! This is just one among them! What a beauty! Glad to get it done in 3 tries. So I get to try the next kingline sooner!

Such a special route. Slab climbing at Schleier, something else for a change... Amazing process from not doing most of the moves and feeling completely lost on my first go, to unlocking the boulders on my second go, and eventually doing it on my fourth go. Went from feeling it to be 9b at first to 8a when I eventually did it... Crazy these slabs

THE line at Schleier Wasserfall!! definitely a special feeling climbing on such a high exposed wall with the sound of the waterfall just behind your back. Felt too hard for 8b+ to me. actually struggled more than on Mercy Street or Resistance...

Nice one! More my style than the steep ones on the left and right or the endless ones in the middle of the crag. Should have done it on the second go but my right hand stupidly slipped off on the rest before the last boulder... Then took me some more tries to get up there again.

Damn should have flashed it. Used one wrong hold and that was it... Different than "Terra piatta" but did not feel easier, so I'll go with soft 8c also for this one. A cool boulder on amazing holds down low and then it finishes off with some easier climbig to the top.

Felt easy today. Didn't even get too pumped. Great route on this amazing wall! Did it just before the best hold on the route broke off... Shouldn't change too much though

Nah, just too hard for 8b+... Three hard moves basically. On the first day I thought I'd do it once I stick the first move but then I fell too many times on the second hard move, almost got mental. Amazing route though! Finger test piece at its finest

#2go Cool! Bouldery, crimpy, technical. Like it!

#2go Last move on the flash. Just one wrong foothold. Damn. But also on the second go it was quite the fight at the end of the day and with the darkness coming in. Great route!!

not my style. felt like I got run over by a truck when I clipped the anchor. still a great route though

#2go Definitely a special route! What a place!!

Awesome line on the headwall! Thx Felix for the beta!

For sure a step up from Number "One direct". So either that one is easier or this one harder then 7b+... One of the best!

Damn didn't know about the grade so I thought it would be easier. But somehow got every section perfectly right away so it was alright for a hard warm up

messed it up there in the middle so it got quite the fight. beautiful 30m route

More of a battle than I wanted it to be... The first part to the kneebars is not that cool but the second hard part definitely climbs well!

Funny climb... Maybe the first route I climbed where you actually have to downclimb a few moves. Wasn't so cool though to climb through the crux with wet hands but glad I kept it together!

3rd go. Had to trust that Mono. Never did anything like that before so it was strange. Cool route though. Straight up!

great route! actually wanted to do Buffalo Bill but I missed the left exit... didn`t regret it though!

would have been cool to onsight, didn`t get even close though tricky crag boulder and a huge span

Great climb. Gotta master the pump ;-)

one move basically. a hard one

#2go Some cool moves on small holds. Got pumped...

The first crux move after the brake is harder then the Beng move. Both are amazing though! What a fun route!

as the last time i was in the Grotta: last go best go! I almost quit trying the route because it was so frustraiting not to get the kneebar into the big hole before the last boulder in order to have a decent rest. But then I found out that I coukd climb this last boulder even beeing pumped, and that got me syked and I fired the route off on the next (but last ) go!

Where has my shape gone?!?!

Didn't know on the on sight that I would have to grab a chipped mono. The rest is brilliant!! Great route!

Good fight! Thx for the beta Steve!

Amazing route!

climbs well. good end to a really enjoyable day

#FA Yess! So happy to have climbed this amazing piece of rock. The route definitely fits my style perfectly. Really short and really bouldery Nevertheless it all felt super hard and I had a lot of luck to keep the moves together up to the top. About the grade: I have never tried anything before what was nearly as hard as this project, but to be honest I haven't even tried anything really hard before. So I can not compare this route to other routes. Moreover I have zero experience in grading routes. All in all I just can say that I had to give everything to climb this project. I hope that someone is going to repeat this Saustall testpiece quite soon. Regardless the grade, I just had super fun trying this amazing project and to finally stick it at the end. Thanks to Helli for bolting this line and letting me try it. So syked!!!

Felt harder then Zeus. Quite a different style though. Three tries always at the end of the three times I was there...

amazing climbing on many underclings. skipped the chipped pocket on top. there was absolutely no need to chip that hold... different times I guess...

#2go Felt hard, but probably my solution was not the best. At least the way I did it was pretty cool!

Wasn't too hard... Holds feld good after climbing on the razor blades of the 8b next to it

#2go Cool climbing. Even got a perfect hand jam at the start.