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Ich stimme zu
8 hrs day First pitch technical granite smears on crystal hard - pulled on draw other pitch have everything from stem to finger locks to commit if laybacks - 6B+ has a smear crux on crystals into strenuouslayback through an overhang great route 👍🏼 8 pitch repel then walk out to middle station
Classic mountaineering style, relatively easy terrain and need to move together to be efficient. Last pitch definitely doesn't feel like 5c (underrated in my opinion)
Second try in a couple of days. With Lisa. Led all pitches and got up to around pitch 10 when it started to rain. We bailed, maybe a bit early because it ceased when we got down after rappelling. Rappelled to R of route.
Enjoying being in the same rope as Mr Holmgren again. Not as fast as we thought so cut it short to be sure to catch last teleferique down to Cham. Rappelled the climb line which was bad idea, rope got stuck. Greatfun though.
First climb for season, much harder than expected. A streneous climb. Completed it with pulling on some gear .
My old Piola topo described many pitches as 5+ and one 6a+, modern topo refer to these as 6a and 6c. Tend to agree with more recent gradings.
First time properly crack cilmbing -- definitely not hooked. Took about an hour to lead the last pitch as I decided to place the entire rack. Did the return to the lift in half the time it took to approach. The prospect of missing the last lift is a great motivator!
Nice climb on solid rock. Can be really overcrowded during highseason. Take a few cams and nuts, slings with you for if the belays are full with other climbers. Nice atmosphere.
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My old Piola topo described many pitches as 5+ and one 6a+, modern topo refer to these as 6a and 6c. Tend to agree with more recent gradings.
