Begehungen in Fränkische Schweiz von Christoph Rauch

#jahreserste2024

Alternate finish for AW that goes straight up. Tough fingery passage towards the last bolt. Since I knew there was yet another anchor at the very top, I wanted to climb there, which made it even harder, probably no longer 7+ if you do that.

Finally did this one. Hard to give it a grade because it's not entirely clear what the exact original line was. The traverse is pretty much obvious, though, and the hardest part is the last meter of that traverse, getting down into the little alcove where also the last bolt of "Nordwestwand" resides, and also not producing rope drag from hell. Even though the traverse was done using rope tension back in the day, it's well-protected nowadays due to the new routes.

The last of these routes that I hadn't done. Instead of traversing all the way to the left, you join the old aid route for a few meters, then go straight up to a separate anchor. Good climbing, but rarely done, so it was quite dusty. The top was also quite wet, unfortunately, which didn't make it easier.

The move into the upper wall can be terribly hard if you move to the left too early. I tried a few times before I realized going up just a little bit more was the way to go. The start is a bit weird but of course less chossy than the start of "Alter Weg".