Begehungen in Bleisteine

#FFA

#FFA

One of the Kurt Albert classics of the Frankenjura! Amazing line with 5 bolts and a pumping top out. Can't believe this was put up in 1979 before the invention of sticky rubber.

Hard and polished

incredible route.

4th go

Polished feet on the slab and easy overhang

Really don't know what happened here. I was just preparing to do the last move in the overhang and my mind just didn't allow me to and I let go. Bummer.

Brilliant classic, by far not as polished as I had imagined. Wall climbing on crimps and pockets just as I like it, with barely any good rest positions before the roof, which turns out to be not as hard as it looks; the last bolt is a bit awkward to clip, though, which makes it slightly easier with the draws in.

FFA.

Alex wanted to try this one so I put up the draws. Wasn't even sure if I could do it, didn't remember all of it. I remembered that it was hard to clip the last bolt, though, so I was prepared to fall there. Worked out nicely, though, so I got my style upgrade.

Nice layback dihedral. Too bad it's so short. #warmup

#warmup

You can clip the bolts of "Kaiserschnitt" on the left, then it's pretty safe. The route is astoundingly independent, you don't use holds from the other two routes, but I can understand that the bolts have been removed since everything's a bit cramped. Crux is the slab/sloper passage over the last bolt. Quite original.

Good-looking crack. Slightly difficult before the first bolt, then easy to the ledge. Not worth it to climb any further from there, even though there is a big bolt higher up (dirty, chossy and very easy).

#warmup

Good sidepulls to the second bolt, then jugs around the arête. Enjoyable bridging action in perfect black rock from there. Too bad it doesn't have an anchor; I went all the way to the right through the dirt and moss to a high bolt above "Nordostverschneidung".

FFA.

Tough one for sure. Feels like every move up to the crux (where I fell) is about as hard as the hardest move in "Offenbarung", and then you need to have enough strength left to pull up on shallow crimps followed by a few slopers. I should come back on a cooler day.

Felt so darn hard. I guess hanging the draws adds a grade. Shouldn't have tried to get the send first go.

Tried again with the same beta and failed. The other girl projecting the route told me her beta for the crux and it felt much more promising than mine.

Tried the other beta but grabbed the first crimp in the wrong position so I couldn't get enough leverage to do the slap to the sloper crimp. I'm surprised how well everything up to that part worked out.

I had forgotten all the previous betas I had, so here we go again. Bottom part worked out as always, so I fell off in the crux after making a half-assed attempt. Found a beta (another one, that is) that involves rotating my left foot to the right on the slightly polished foothold below the good one, then reaching up for the first bad sloper, shifting the body to the right, grabbing the bad crimp on the right as intermediate, put left foot onto the good foothold and bump up with the right hand to the other sloper. Worked out nicely twice, so I thought I had it settled.

Got to the crux with what I thought was enough strength left, but messed up. Didn't shift my body enough to the right before grabbing the bad crimp on the right, so I slipped off the sloper crimp on the left when bumping up to the other sloper …

Didn't have any more time so I immediately started again after my failed attempt. Again, reached the crux, tried the same beta again and seemingly made the same mistake. It's so hard to keep it together at that point …

I was completely pumped before I even reached the crux. No wonder given the high temps. I wonder why we didn't think about that. Nevertheless, I got through the crux with the right-hand beta (sloper crimp with thumb catch, high foot left, bump up twice to the reasonably good hold, right foot up and match hands).

Reached the mediocre sloper rail before the crux with manageable pump but slipped off a foothold. Caught myself, but couldn't recover completely from this lapse of concentration. Also turns out the right-hand beta is probably harder to pull off when pumped. Tried the left-hand beta again (from the sloper rail, high left foot, rock up, grab the undercling although it feels awkward, get right foot up somehow, then bump up twice, this time with the right hand) and it seems to work just as well and it's maybe the safer option.

Too exhausted. And also I couldn't see the footholds. Why does it have to get dark so early already? The route is quite good, though. Better luck next time. #lastrouteoftheday