Begehungen in Rote Kante

Well … such a shame. The pockets up to and slightly above the first bolt are fantastic, the texture and colour of the rock is amazing. But then it suddenly stops. Also barely any chalk marks above that point. I bet a jug must have broken off, otherwise this is certainly not climbable for 9-. Dynamically into a bad mono, then another bad mono, then what? Jump a full meter to a mediocre pocket? I don't think so.

Visually the best line in this part of the wall. Also a great climb. Steep pockets in the first part, then a glory jug in the middle, followed by some awesome technical trickery in the upper part. Took the undercling above the bad little crimps as an overhead gaston (is that a thing?) to get my feet up, risky to try this in the onsight but it paid off!

Short but awesome!

Seems to be a great route! I couldn't do the crux move from the tiny crimp to the pocket, but it's doable. The rest is strenuous yet enjoyable. I should give it another shot when I'm stronger.

One move wonder crux after the easy start, depends on if you can pull on the small, bumpy crimp and maintain body tension to get up to the pocket. The 8- that follows is still demanding, both technical and sustained. Good line and rock quality, too.

2nd go. Still a litty dirty, but nice and entertaining route...

2nd go

Super, aber wenn man oben links der Haken geht deutlich leichter. Vor dem hohen ersten Haken liegt ein kleiner Keil, aber Vorklippen erschien mir die bessere Option...

I pre-clipped the first bolt, which quickly turned out to be the right choice. It's weird and tricky to climb, and gets even harder to the second bolt, along the thin crack. Apparently, sneaking to the left where it's easier is the name of the game here. Bit disappointing that you can't really climb the line.

Not easy to climb the crack to the first bolt. Didn't have it preclipped, but the draw was already in, which helped. The rest of the route is best climbed a little on the left, which makes the new warmup route there a little irritating, feels so close … the line looks more promising than the climb eventually is, but it's still nice if you disregard that.

2nd go. Schwerer als es aussieht. 8- passt besser imho

2nd go

Hard to read, and sustained climbing, I barely made it through! Surprisingly, the overhanging finish was the easiest part.

There's nothing specifically bad about this route, I just didn't like it very much. Awkward climbing.

Looks quite featureless from below and it turns out to be quite stiff indeed. Took me a good while to find the good hold. The overhang in the end is comparatively easy. Nice route.

Short, burly crack with awkward moves.

Ich hätt mindestens 7- gesagt^^

The lower part is still chossy. Couldn't get over the 2nd bolt and retreated.

Still struggled getting past the second bolt. The upper part was also quite hard for me. Found it hard for the grade overall, I guess I was just not able to read the route correctly.

Nice #warmup

Nice line along a crack, avoiding a bulge (lucky me!) but a nice finish where you need to step to the left and reach to the top jugs to clip the anchor (that part I found quite easy because of my reach).

Solid warmup.

Nice warmup, the crack is still a bit dirty but there are enough holds to climb it as a dihedral. Nice black rock.

Nice and easy. The only problem was the slippery ground before getting into the route and there is a rotten tree covering a huge hole, watch out!