Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
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7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]()
1
6+
28m
2
7-
10m
| 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | So 24. Okt 2021 | ||||
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9- |
★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 15. Jun 2018 | ||||
8 |
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Mi 20. Jun 2018 | ||||
8 |
★ Außenseiter
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 15. Sep 2018 | |||||
8 |
★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg Direktausstieg
![]() | 6m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
Short but exposed second pitch to RHG, directly through the overhanging crack in the huge slab lying on top of the tower. The hardest part was not to step on the rusty pegs in the crack. No real crack technique needed, there are holds! ;-) No additional protection needed, the bolt sits in the right place.
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8 |
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 23. Sep 2023 | |||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | ||||
Another classic line in this piece of rock. Interesting throughout, with a tricky and difficult passage at the last bolt. All in all quite homogenous climbing on fantastic pockets.
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8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 30. Sep 2017 | ||||
Surprisingly good. A bit easier than "Katalysator". Tricky climbing on small crimps and a few pockets. Luckily, no bees or adders today; myriads of ladybirds instead.
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8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 16. Jun 2018 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | So 17. Jun 2018 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 15. Nov 2020 | ||||
8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 7. Okt 2022 | ||||
8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 5. Aug 2023 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 23. Sep 2023 | |||||
7+ |
Messer
![]() | 18m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 15. Sep 2018 | |||||
7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 26. Dez 2017 | ||||
Hard for the grade, but a great line. Crux is the section with the crack, where you move from one uncomfortable situation into another for a few moves.
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7- 7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 9. Okt 2018 | ||||
7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Mi 2. Sep 2015 | |||||
7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Mi 20. Jun 2018 | ||||
7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
Tricky! The quickdraws were already in, which helped a bit.
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7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
Short direct start to RHG. Didn't even clip the bolts, to avoid rope drag. The climbing's not too bad, though, I guess it's sensible, even though the original line is more interesting.
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7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Fr 7. Okt 2022 | ||||
7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 23. Sep 2023 | |||||
7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Ged.-Weg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Mi 6. Sep 2023 | |||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | ||||
Tremendously good line. Starts with an interesting dihedral up onto a ledge with a beehive (be careful!), then along a diagonal crack containing the crux moves (which are finicky, but superb) to an easy finish of the first pitch on a big flake. The second pitch starts with delicate slab moves: small holds, not much for the feet either. Two meters up, you reach the big roof and begin traversing to the left along seemingly fragile flakes with only one bolt as intermediate protection, but it's immensely nice to climb. To finish off the great experience, you top out onto the tower and sit down on the bench to enjoy the view (after belaying your partner of course!)
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7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | So 14. Aug 1994 | ||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Mi 2. Sep 2015 | |||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 15. Jun 2018 | ||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 28. Aug 1999 | ||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | So 2. Aug 2015 | |||||
6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | ||||
Easy up to the last few meters, where a difficult passage on small holds awaits you.
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6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Mi 2. Sep 2015 | |||||
6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | So 17. Jun 2018 | ||||
6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 28. Aug 1999 | ||||
7- 6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
Got no recollection from last time. Also, climbed it past the anchor, doing the 7-/7 section as well. Not recommended in a single pitch, due to the ledge you can fall onto.
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9 |
★★ Dances with Wolves
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | So 17. Jun 2018 | |||||
8 |
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | So 24. Okt 2021 | ||||
Meistens nicht zu schwer und man kann gut pausieren. Dann einmal über den Wulst angreifen und in den Rettungshenkel. Weiter gesicherte Platte im Ausstieg.
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8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | So 24. Okt 2021 | ||||
Premium Wandkletterei. Das beste und schwerste kommt zum Schluss. Nicht von den hakenabständen abschrecken lassen, es ist immer ein guter Henkel zum clippen da.
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8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 16. Okt 2021 | |||||
8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 5. Aug 2023 | ||||
7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | So 23. Mai 1999 | ||||
7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | So 15. Nov 2020 | ||||
7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | So 24. Okt 2021 | ||||
Nach einem nicht ganz trivialen Einstieg folgen 10m leichte Kletterei. Der Einstieg in den Riss ist ebenso komplex. Die Crux ist am Ende der rissspur. Man steht etwas unangenehm in der offenen Verschneidung.
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7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 16. Okt 2021 | |||||
7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | ||||
Geile Tour, knackig ins letzte Drittel!
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7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 5. Aug 2023 | ||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | |||||
Flashed the first pitch, seconded the second.
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6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | |||||
6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Do 13. Jul 2017 | ||||
6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | So 24. Okt 2021 | ||||
Schöne Aufwärmtour mit einer kniffligen Stelle in der Mitte.
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6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | ||||
Schönes langes aufwärmen. Unten viel Botanik, oben gar nicht so simpel für den Grad!
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6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 30. Sep 2023 | |||||
10 |
FA
★★★ Ghettoblaster
![]() | 8 | Frankenjura Nord | 1986 | |||||
FFA.
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10 10 to 10+ |
★★★ Ghettoblaster
![]() | 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Mi 9. Aug 2006 | |||||
10 10 to 10+ |
★★★ Ghettoblaster
![]() | 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Fr 25. Mai 2001 | |||||
10- |
FA
★★ Westside Story
![]() | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | 1986 | |||||
FFA.
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9- |
★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 16. Okt 2021 | |||||
8 |
FA
★ Außenseiter
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | 1979 | ||||||
FFA.
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8 |
FA
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | 1980 | |||||
FFA.
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8 |
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 16. Okt 2021 | |||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 7. Okt 2022 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Mi 6. Sep 2023 | |||||
7+ |
FA
Messer
![]() | 18m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | 1980 | |||||
FFA.
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7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 9. Okt 2018 | ||||
7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | So 12. Jul 2020 | ||||
7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Mo 2. Okt 2023 | |||||
6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 30. Sep 2023 | ||||
8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 28. Aug 1999 | |||||
7 |
★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 28. Aug 1999 | ||||
7 |
★★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg
![]() | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 28. Aug 1999 | |||||
6+ 7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg (Robert Lukas Ged. Weg)
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 1. Jul 2004 | ||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]()
1
6+
28m
2
7-
10m
| 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 9. Okt 2018 | ||||
bis unter das Dach, aber ohne Querung und Ausstieg.
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7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 3. Sep 2005 | |||||
10+ 10 to 10+ |
★★★ Ghettoblaster
![]() | 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 15. Sep 2018 | ||||
10- |
★★ Westside Story
![]() | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 20. Jun 2018 | ||||
9- |
★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
Worked out well with the dynamic beta.
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8 |
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | ||||
Felt easy on the second try. It seems like there are two new bolts to the left of the big crack with the sling, which makes the finish really enjoyable (I didn't top out onto the tower).
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8 |
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 28. Aug 1999 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 13. Jul 2017 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 28. Aug 1999 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
Finally! Turns out, if you do the crux sequence just right, it isn't even that hard.
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6- |
★ Der kleine Rabe
![]() | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg P1
![]() | 28m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | ||||
Endlich mal wieder ein top rope onsight!
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8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | So 23. Mai 1999 | |||||
6+ |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg P1
![]()
1
6+
28m
| 28m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 30. Sep 2023 | ||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Fr 7. Okt 2022 | |||||
5- |
★ Normalweg
![]() | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
The shortest and easiest way to the summit. Originally with one bolt, which would have been enough.
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9- |
★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 23. Sep 2023 | |||||
8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Mo 2. Okt 2023 | |||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
![]() | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | So 17. Sep 2023 | |||||
9- |
★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Di 26. Dez 2017 | ||||
The top section was still a bit wet, but after I took a fall because my foot slipped, I found a good solution for the last part and finished the route (mediocre crimp on the left and then high right foot; block up on shoulder to gain the shallow pocket). Should go down next time.
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9- |
★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | ||||
Got through the first half, but knowing too well that the crux was the boulder above the ledge, I wasn't too confident. Didn't find the right sequence immediately of course, so I dropped off. Found a dynamic beta with a high foot after a while.
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9- |
★ Stairway to Heaven
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 23. Sep 2023 | |||||
8 |
★ Auerbacher Gedenkweg
![]() | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Gut | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | ||||
Not as good as its left neighbour, but interesting nonetheless. Save for one passage, it is actually easier than "Katalysator". This one passage contains a reachy move into a pinch-like pocket, which I failed to grab on this attempt.
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8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | |||||
Couldn't onsight through the crux.
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8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 15. Okt 2016 | |||||
Failed in the crux, but it's definitely doable.
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8- |
★★ Open End
![]() | 30m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 9. Okt 2018 | ||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Mi 2. Sep 2015 | |||||
8- |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Sa 2. Okt 2021 | |||||
Failed attempt at an Alzheimer's onsight
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8- schwer |
★★★ Katalysator
![]() | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | ||||
Classic ist verdient. Heftig oben.
|
Wenn man ein paar Stopper hat könnte man den Rest auch gut absichern.