Begehungen in Veilbronner Wand

Wäre mit etwas Konzentration auch im 2. Go drin gewesen.

Richtig gute Klemmer

The crack is really strenuous, couldn't bring up the core strength needed for the layback moves.

Climbed the crux by jamming half my body into the crack.

Tried it with fist jams, managed to do the clip, but then it got too painful. I guess I was doing it wrong. Then I found a much easier solution involving just a crimp and a jug. Didn't really want to repeat it though because of the sketchy, crumbling slab at the end.

Funny route. No weird crack business, kind of straightforward but also with unusual moves.

3rd go

Cool dihedral climbing, mostly bridging and stemming. Good rock quality and sensible protection.

Worthwile direct start with nice moves on crimps and a crack into the layback crux of "Alter Weg". The rock is slightly brittle in the top section, unfortunately.

Much much better than it looks from below. Great crack line, not as chossy as it seems and with some great sections. Crux is the traverse after the third bolt. The top section can still throw you off!

Quite a tough bulge in the middle. Almost fell off because I misread the sequence, but rescued myself by bumping up to the good (well, sort of) crimp. The top part is quite technical, in nice dark rock.

Nice little traverse in the middle. Climbed the crack much more elegantly this time, with fist jams instead of laybacking it. The original route went up to the right after the crack, which is way easier, but dirty and chossy, so it's no longer climbed; instead, the few slabby meters to the anchor are a nice addition.

Draw removal service and fist jam demo.

Most comments and guidebooks claim the crux to be a problem of reach. Could be that they overlooked my beta, or just didn't bother, but I used a nice thumb catch undercling to get my left hand up onto a tiny crimp. Right foot onto a good hold and a dynamic bump to the jug. I'm rather average in height, so myth debunked. Maybe at the upper end of 8+ like that, but still in the range.

Tried with my "performance" shoes … felt horrible. Exchanged them for the comfy ones right after I fell off in the crux (almost hit myself in the nose when my thumb popped off the undercling).

#lastrouteoftheday

Starts like "Alter Weg Direkteinstieg", then draws to the right via a chossy flake onto a ledge, then into a powerful layback sequence with next to no footholds. #warmup

Exit variant between "Alter Weg" and "Kulmbacher Weg", just a few moves on jugs, then stand up awkwardly on a shallow undercling and finally get scared by the choss above.

Astonishingly good holds and quite solid rock. Great, sensible traverse along the obvious crimps, even with a little bit of downclimbing. Crux at the beginning of the traverse. There's an anchor on the ledge just above the wall, best to crawl over to that one in case you don't have anyone to second the route. In comparison to the other routes here rather 7 than 7+.