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Nasser Stein Guide

  • Bewertungskontext: SX
  • Fotos: 2
  • Begehungen: 7

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Alma Peter Colditz

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Nasser Stein

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

33 routes in Cliff

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 50.840406, 14.046474

Einschränkungen

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

übernommen von Sächsische Schweiz

Ethik

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
übernommen von Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg I Traditionell
2 Südwand III Traditionell
3 Südriss IV Traditionell
4 Uns ist kalt

Rechts vom „Sűdriss“ Wand (links kleine Kiefer), später rechts wie „Sűdwand“ zu großem Band. Leicht rechtshaltend und gerade űber Überhang zG.

Erstbegehung: 14 Mär 2021

V Traditionell
5 Neuer Südriss VIIb Traditionell
6 Trockenübung V Traditionell
7 Südwestkante III Traditionell
8 Oktoberfest IV Traditionell
9 Erster Glühwein VIIb Traditionell
10 Nebelweg V Traditionell
11 Westwand V Traditionell
12 Direkte Westwand VIIIb Traditionell
13 Humusweg III Traditionell
14 Null Null IV Traditionell
15 Nordkante III Traditionell
16 Nordostweg V Traditionell
17 Nordweg I Traditionell
18 Südkante Rissvariante III Traditionell
19 Mordor

Von der tiefen ΝO-Scharte Spreize an Band vorbei u. Riss űber kƖeinen Üh (SU), oben Ausstiegsriss vom „Bergweg“ zG.

Erstbegehung: Andreas E, 2 Jun 2023

VIIa Traditionell
20 Schartenriss IV Traditionell
21 Stille VI Traditionell
22 Abschied tut weh VIIa Traditionell
23 Leben und leben lassen VI Traditionell
24 Ostkante VIIb Traditionell
25 Südostriss IV Traditionell
26 Südostwand V Traditionell
27 Herbstweg II Traditionell
28 Südkante IV Traditionell
29 Südkante direkt VIIa Traditionell
30 Regentrude VIIa Traditionell
31 Boulderlaune

Erstbegehung: Steffen Bartsch

NCCS:VI Gemischt trad 10m, 1
32 Vergessener Weg II Traditionell
33 Volltreffer 3 Traditionell

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
I Alter Weg Traditionell
Nordweg Traditionell
II Herbstweg Traditionell
Vergessener Weg Traditionell
III Humusweg Traditionell
Nordkante Traditionell
Südkante Rissvariante Traditionell
Südwand Traditionell
Südwestkante Traditionell
IV Null Null Traditionell
Oktoberfest Traditionell
Schartenriss Traditionell
Südkante Traditionell
Südostriss Traditionell
Südriss Traditionell
V Nebelweg Traditionell
Nordostweg Traditionell
Südostwand Traditionell
Trockenübung Traditionell
Uns ist kalt Traditionell
Westwand Traditionell
VI Leben und leben lassen Traditionell
Stille Traditionell
VIIa Abschied tut weh Traditionell
Mordor Traditionell
Regentrude Traditionell
Südkante direkt Traditionell
VIIb Erster Glühwein Traditionell
Neuer Südriss Traditionell
Ostkante Traditionell
VIIIb Direkte Westwand Traditionell
3 Volltreffer Traditionell
VI Boulderlaune Gemischt trad 10m, 1
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