A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Thorsten Koch Georg Kretzschmar Campbell Gome CJ_DiePumpe Sandro Elmo Tom Player One Philipp Götze Player Two
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Teichwächter 44 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Teichwächter 44 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: 50.902904, 14.020158
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
Einschränkungen
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
Ethik
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Alter Weg
Rechts in der Südostseite über Überhang und Rinne folgend auf den Südost-Gipfel. Übergang zG. Erstbegehung: unbekannt, 1959 | II | 12m | |||||
2 | ★★ Alter Weg Sprung | II 2 | ||||||
3 | Kalte Dusche | VIIa | ||||||
4 | Badehosenweg | VIIa | ||||||
5 | Aquaplaning | VI | ||||||
6 | Südweg | IV | ||||||
7 | Rätsel ohne Lösung | V 2 | ||||||
8 | Birkenweg | III | ||||||
9 | Gebogener Riss | IV | ||||||
10 | Schartenweg | III | ||||||
11 | Kreuzweg | V | ||||||
12 | Spreizkamin | III | ||||||
13 | Spreizweg | III | ||||||
14 | Herbstweg | III | ||||||
15 | Juliweg | V | ||||||
16 |
Juliweg Erwähnung
Vom Rissende Wand gerade zG. | V | ||||||
17 | Novemberweg | V | ||||||
18 | Abendweg | V | ||||||
19 | Feuchtbiotop | VIIIb | ||||||
20 |
Gottfrieds Prämie
AF VIIIb | IXa | 2 | |||||
21 | Entenfuß | VIIIb | ||||||
22 | Höhlenmensch | IXa | ||||||
23 | Entengrütze | VIIIa | 2 | |||||
24 | Rachefeldzug | VIIIb | 2 | |||||
25 | Freundschaftsweg | VI | ||||||
26 |
Nordkante
mit Unterstützung / w/ support IV | V | ||||||
27 | Paule Bademeister | VIIIb | ||||||
28 | Muffig | VIIb | ||||||
29 |
Kurzer Akt
with support VI | VIIIa | 1 | |||||
30 | Märzweg | IV | ||||||
31 | Geburtstagsweg | V | ||||||
32 | Riesenkamin | V | ||||||
33 | Kluftweg | III | ||||||
34 | ★★ Nordostweg | III | 12m | |||||
35 | Vater und Söhne | IV | ||||||
36 | ★ Nordostrinne | III | 12m | |||||
37 | Solo | V | ||||||
38 | Seitensprung | II 2 | ||||||
39 |
Zwergen-Hüpfer
3m rechts unterhalb vom "Riesensprung" zu bewachsenem Band absteigen und Sprung zu Absatz. Erstbegehung: 28 Nov 2021 | 2 | ||||||
40 | Riesensprung | I 3 | ||||||
41 | ★★ Sprung | I 2 | ||||||
42 | ★★ Bademeister | I 2 | ||||||
43 | Startblock | I 3 | ||||||
44 | Winterdienst | I 3 | ||||||
Gipfelbuch UmzugDas Gipfelbuch wurde auf den NO-Gipfel verlegt. Der Heinicke Kletterführer (2015) geht noch davon aus, dass man auf den SW-Gipfel muss. Auf dem SW-Gipfel muss man nun im Süden(in der Nähe des Massivs) einen relativ leichten Überfall(I) machen, um auf den jetztigen Hauptgipfel(NO) zu kommen. Abseilösen gibt es auf beiden Gipfeln. Dadurch ändert sich zum Beispiel der AW. Hier ist nun kein Sprung mehr nötig! |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
I/2 | ★★ | Bademeister | |||
★★ | Sprung | ||||
I/3 | Riesensprung | ||||
Startblock | |||||
Winterdienst | |||||
II | ★ | Alter Weg | 12m | ||
II/2 | ★★ | Alter Weg Sprung | |||
Seitensprung | |||||
III | Birkenweg | ||||
Herbstweg | |||||
Kluftweg | |||||
★ | Nordostrinne | 12m | |||
★★ | Nordostweg | 12m | |||
Schartenweg | |||||
Spreizkamin | |||||
Spreizweg | |||||
IV | Gebogener Riss | ||||
Märzweg | |||||
Südweg | |||||
Vater und Söhne | |||||
V | Abendweg | ||||
Geburtstagsweg | |||||
Juliweg | |||||
Juliweg Erwähnung | |||||
Kreuzweg | |||||
Nordkante | |||||
Novemberweg | |||||
Riesenkamin | |||||
Solo | |||||
V/2 | Rätsel ohne Lösung | ||||
VI | Aquaplaning | ||||
Freundschaftsweg | |||||
VIIa | Badehosenweg | ||||
Kalte Dusche | |||||
VIIb | Muffig | ||||
VIIIa | Entengrütze | 2 | |||
Kurzer Akt | 1 | ||||
VIIIb | Entenfuß | ||||
Feuchtbiotop | |||||
Paule Bademeister | |||||
Rachefeldzug | 2 | ||||
IXa | Gottfrieds Prämie | 2 | |||
Höhlenmensch | |||||
2 | Zwergen-Hüpfer |