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Teichwächter Guide

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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Georg Kretzschmar Campbell Gome Sandro Tom Player One Philipp Götze Player Two

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Teichwächter 44 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 50.902904, 14.020158

Einschränkungen

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

übernommen von Sächsische Schweiz

Ethik

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
übernommen von Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

Rechts in der Südostseite über Überhang und Rinne folgend auf den Südost-Gipfel. Übergang zG.

Erstbegehung: unbekannt, 1959

II Traditionell 12m
2 Alter Weg Sprung II 2 Traditionell
3 Kalte Dusche VIIa Traditionell
4 Badehosenweg VIIa Traditionell
5 Aquaplaning VI Traditionell
6 Südweg IV Traditionell
7 Rätsel ohne Lösung V 2 Traditionell
8 Birkenweg III Traditionell
9 Gebogener Riss IV Traditionell
10 Schartenweg III Traditionell
11 Kreuzweg V Traditionell
12 Spreizkamin III Traditionell
13 Spreizweg III Traditionell
14 Herbstweg III Traditionell
15 Juliweg V Traditionell
16 Juliweg Erwähnung

Vom Rissende Wand gerade zG.

V Traditionell
17 Novemberweg V Traditionell
18 Abendweg V Traditionell
19 Feuchtbiotop VIIIb Traditionell
20 Gottfrieds Prämie

AF VIIIb

IXa Gemischt trad 2
21 Entenfuß VIIIb Traditionell
22 Höhlenmensch IXa Traditionell
23 Entengrütze VIIIa Gemischt trad 2
24 Rachefeldzug VIIIb Gemischt trad 2
25 Freundschaftsweg VI Traditionell
26 Nordkante

mit Unterstützung / w/ support IV

V Traditionell
27 Paule Bademeister VIIIb Traditionell
28 Muffig VIIb Traditionell
29 Kurzer Akt

with support VI

VIIIa Gemischt trad 1
30 Märzweg IV Traditionell
31 Geburtstagsweg V Traditionell
32 Riesenkamin V Traditionell
33 Kluftweg III Traditionell
34 Nordostweg III Traditionell 12m
35 Vater und Söhne IV Traditionell
36 Nordostrinne III Traditionell 12m
37 Solo V Traditionell
38 Seitensprung II 2 Traditionell
39 Zwergen-Hüpfer

3m rechts unterhalb vom "Riesensprung" zu bewachsenem Band absteigen und Sprung zu Absatz.

Erstbegehung: 28 Nov 2021

2 Traditionell
40 Riesensprung I 3 Traditionell
41 Sprung I 2 Traditionell
42 Bademeister I 2 Traditionell
43 Startblock I 3 Traditionell
44 Winterdienst I 3 Traditionell

Gipfelbuch Umzug

Das Gipfelbuch wurde auf den NO-Gipfel verlegt. Der Heinicke Kletterführer (2015) geht noch davon aus, dass man auf den SW-Gipfel muss. Auf dem SW-Gipfel muss man nun im Süden(in der Nähe des Massivs) einen relativ leichten Überfall(I) machen, um auf den jetztigen Hauptgipfel(NO) zu kommen. Abseilösen gibt es auf beiden Gipfeln. Dadurch ändert sich zum Beispiel der AW. Hier ist nun kein Sprung mehr nötig!

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
I/2 Bademeister Traditionell
Sprung Traditionell
I/3 Riesensprung Traditionell
Startblock Traditionell
Winterdienst Traditionell
II Alter Weg Traditionell 12m
II/2 Alter Weg Sprung Traditionell
Seitensprung Traditionell
III Birkenweg Traditionell
Herbstweg Traditionell
Kluftweg Traditionell
Nordostrinne Traditionell 12m
Nordostweg Traditionell 12m
Schartenweg Traditionell
Spreizkamin Traditionell
Spreizweg Traditionell
IV Gebogener Riss Traditionell
Märzweg Traditionell
Südweg Traditionell
Vater und Söhne Traditionell
V Abendweg Traditionell
Geburtstagsweg Traditionell
Juliweg Traditionell
Juliweg Erwähnung Traditionell
Kreuzweg Traditionell
Nordkante Traditionell
Novemberweg Traditionell
Riesenkamin Traditionell
Solo Traditionell
V/2 Rätsel ohne Lösung Traditionell
VI Aquaplaning Traditionell
Freundschaftsweg Traditionell
VIIa Badehosenweg Traditionell
Kalte Dusche Traditionell
VIIb Muffig Traditionell
VIIIa Entengrütze Gemischt trad 2
Kurzer Akt Gemischt trad 1
VIIIb Entenfuß Traditionell
Feuchtbiotop Traditionell
Paule Bademeister Traditionell
Rachefeldzug Gemischt trad 2
IXa Gottfrieds Prämie Gemischt trad 2
Höhlenmensch Traditionell
2 Zwergen-Hüpfer Traditionell
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