Routen in Indien für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Arete L of Scoop. SDS apparently goes at 6C

Stand. R side of back face. Start at LH incut rail + RH small low side pull for best value

Short undercut face into ramped arete, L of The Long Reach.

SDS. On small boulder beside main boulder

Overhanging arete on R end of scoop

SDS low left. Veer R and onto easier holds to top. Also best route for descent.

Very easy. Good for warm up.

Climbs left side arete with crimps on face

Climbs right side arete with crimps on face

Left hand line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Middle line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Right hand line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Starts left & finishes right of arete.

Left variation possible

Between Egg Boulder + the warm-up block. Sit start LH side pull, RH on peg hole

Uncomfortable low start

B1 P1. Easy boulder problem.

Start with good hand hold.

Easy arete for beginners.

Finger jamming problem

Easy but high problem traversing left up obvious crack. Dangerous.

Sit start

Traverse from left to right

Very easy, all big holds. Good problem for beginners.

Starts from horizontal crack, right hand most line.

Dangerous.

SDS on L side of boulder with bush

Featured arete on backside of boulder

LH line up the arete on boulder facing the back of the main “Classic Arete” boulder.

RH line on boulder opposite backside of main boulder

little dynamic movement start with side climbing towards the top, mail-on bail.

Overhanging right to left traverse.

Traverse from right to left with good holds.

This route was bolted in April 2018 and it's the route right of La vie est Belle(life is beautiful) and on the same wall. Added the missing hangers and maillons on the anchor along with the hanger on the first bolt on Jan 1st 2022.

Anchor has one chemical bolt

An easy start with two mini cruxes after the second bolt and then at the top. Don't go right into the chimney.

Mixed trad with anchor bolts

no anchor bolts. Mixed trad route

Great looking line up the scoop wall above puss max. 5 bolts, no anchors.

Cool featured rock, great climbing.

Around the corner, facing Bangalore. Below the trees in the image below. • The take-off is the crux, there after the line eases up. • Use the two bolts and the tree to the right to protect to reach the tree to the left. • FA by Prerna Dangi. Route by Sohan & Amrit. Dec 18th, 2022.

Immediately left of Jumme Ki Raat. Face climbing.

Anchor: The trees above. Long anchoring ropes needed to get the master point overtheedge. 30-or40-footpiecesofcordage

To access top of this route, either climb the routes to the right, or hike around from the left.

Anchor: The tree is a little more than a juvenile at this time. Possible also to use the crack to the left around the boulder as one more leg of the anchor.

Crack and Face

20 meters to the north-west of Jumme Ki Raat section of routes

The name apparently refers to the Paragliding tradition at Yedumadu (source, V.Murthy).

Crux is the take-off through the roof crack over the cave, rest of the crack is exciting too, and then the unprotected slab to the top out. Betavii

Exit: Scramble left (east) over the bridge of boulders

Facing: North

Rack: Full rack from finger to fist sized pieces

Anchor: Under the two boulders on the top. Fist and hand sized pieces under the right boulder, and finger sized pieces under the left.

Natural Anchor: Boulders

FKA: Sohan, supported by Vikram Murthy & Kiran Kallur, July 20th, 2021.

Offwidth.

Crux within the lower 18 feet and then a scramble through the gulley. Top out through the face to the left or top out on the ledge to the right.

Betax

Exit: Walk off from the right (west)

Best time: Till noon or post 4 pm.

Rack: Off-width gear including #4 and #5 BD cams.

Anchor: Tree on the ledge to bring up the partner, or the crack to the left above the face to top rope. The crack takes small pieces, finger to finger and half sizes.

Natural anchor: Difficult, but not impossible.

FKA: Sohan, belayed by Kiran Kallur. June 26th, 2021.

A dramatic route that requires some creative rope work. Or use double ropes.

The second high boulder north of Chagara. About 12-13 meters at its highest point.

This key section of this line is a traverse on the north face of the boulder, and then the unprotected traverse to the right or climb diagonally along the bolts to the top.

Rack: Finger-sized pieces.

FA: Sohan, with support from Amith BV., Charan H., & Amrit A. August 17th, 2022.

Two versions. One using the chimney, and the other avoids the chimney. If using the chimney, the top-out is the crux (5.10a). If using only the face, the crux is between the first and the second bolt, about 5.10c/d moves.

If not topping-out, the grade is 5.8.

Delightful line; requires all the respect it deserves, else will spit you out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan. Sep 25th, 2022. FA, Sohan. Sep 28th, 2022.

The west facing side of the Black Lightening boulder. Mildly overhanging with solid holds. The route starts from atop a boulder, radiating right for the first dozen feet, and then directly below the anchor.

The line is quite unusual for Yedumadu, in that it is overhanging, and has jugs for holds. Sharp as they maybe, still jugs. Second bolt to the anchor station has potential for decking the boulder below, if the belay is not efficient.

Route credit, Charan H & Sohan. November 30th, 2022.

As you face High Noon Crack, this boulder is located down the slope towards the west of it for about 40-50 odd meters, facing south, the same direction as the High Noon crack. The lower section of the crack is hidden behind boulders in a cave, but the upper diagonal hand crack radiating right is visible from the base.

Another boulder to the immediate right of it, forms the Wolf Snake Chimney

Hand jams all the way to the top.

At the point where (10 odd feet from the ground) the crack turns diagonally to the right, the hand jams are narrow (for average sized hands; .5/.75 BD cam size) and then progressively increase in size to #2 size, until the crack turns vertical again.

For the first 15-20 feet, the crack is crowded by the boulders behind and below. One could stand on one of the boulders at the base and access the crack for nearly 2/3rds the length of it!

So, somewhat contrived set of rules to make this route challenging and interesting is to avoid the boulder behind to the right, for the take off. If you lean on the upper boulder to rest or for movement, that again makes the crack easier (about 5.10a), but when the chimney ends, the crux grade still holds for rest of the route. So, make a choice for self on how you want to climb the line.

The base is a cave, so in the shade through the day for the belayer.

Rack: fist sized and below cams. Doubles of .5, .75, and 1 might help.

Anchor: Finger sized horizontal crack immediately above the route, or hand and fist sized crack slightly to the right. *Position the master point on the face to the left of the crack to avoid rope pinch and rope drag.

Natural Anchor: No

FKA: Aravind Selvam

High Noon (Old Name - Bat Crack)*

Finger and hand crack -An old classic, and test piece for intermediate trad climbers. Series of cruces make up this exciting line. The take-off as a layback to the jug (15-feet) before the crack turns diagonally right. Then the next move to the jug along the diagonal crack, and then at the point where the finger crack widens.

Though popularly known as High Noon since 2009 (Alok Tater name), the older name (via Suma Rao) is Bat Crack.

Rack: Finger to Hand sized pieces to protect, and fist sized pieces and below for the top anchor. Possible to protect the entire route with nuts alone (Offsets would be just great).

Anchor: Cracks that take fist sized to hand sized pieces. The best positioning for the masterpoint is between the crack and the horn to the climber left. So use the cracks to the climber right, and the horn to the climber left to position the master point as needed.

Natural Anchor: No (unless, you go way back, and sling a tree (20-30 meters?)

FKA: Cristobal Diaz & Dinesh K. (1990s)

Finger and hand crack

An old classic. This high boulder is located immediately behind the High Noon set of routes.

Slab start, then the crux roof, tricky placement to protect below the roof, over the roof and into the crack, and then easy hand and fist crack angling to the right. Last ten feet is mildly run out, if not using off width gear.

Facing: South

Rack: Fist sized pieces and below. (Off-width pieces optional for the upper section)

Anchor: Cracks on either side in the wide chimney, using hand sized pieces and below.

Natural Anchor: Possible with the trees above to provide an anchor at the top (with long static rope or webbing), but one directional needed in the crack below.

On the You Or I Boulder, left face start under the tree growing out of the crack, use the arete and grab the tree.

The first piece of pro by slinging on the tree, after 15 feet. Then continue onto the crack directly above it, or traverse to the right finger crack.

Offwidth crack

The crack starts to the right on the south facing wall, as a hand crack, traverses left and opens up into the crux off-width. Past the offwidth, further short traverse to the left as hand crack and then along a flake and then the heady but easy top- out.

Rack: Upto #4, or #5 (optional).

Anchor: Crack (Finger and hand cracks)

Natural Anchor: Boulder and tree. Long anchor.

FKA, Sohan with support from Amrit Appaden and Karthik Maddineni, Feb 2021

The traverse from right to left, along the crack, and top out through the Decepticon line. Creative placements in the crack for the traverse. Vertical crack is well protected.

The crux is the traverse section to connect to the vertical crack.

Rack: Hand-sized pieces and below.

Top Anchor: Since a traverse, a top-anchor that would connect the entire traverse might be complex. However, a top anchor from atop the boulder could be setup using small pieces, or just pink-point as your project the traverse, with pre-placed gear in the crack.

FKA: Aalok Bharadwaj pink-pointed on, Dec 11,2021.

Finger & Hand crack

The thin finger crack on mildly overhanging wall, converts to a hand crack after about 15 feet, following by top out via a mild roof. Another body length of climbing over slabbish section to the flat top.

Sustained line for the grade with beautiful movement, intense gear placements, and with a satisfying top-out. The right beta will make this line either a 10ish route, or if you blow the beta, will seem like a 11ish line.

While the lower section is easy at the grade, the gear placements could be difficult to make while climbing until the ledge. Hence the PG.

Exit: After the top-out, walk left over to the next boulder, and chimney down, through the cave.

Rack: Finger- and hand-sized pieces to lead, and hand-sized pieces for top anchor.

Top anchor: Along the crack on the slab section, hand-sized pieces. Or further up on the top, larger hand-sized crack.

Natural anchor: A tree further behind and to the left of the top-out. Between 5 to 10 meters in length of cordage for natural anchor.

FA: Sohan with Akhil Menon & Kiran Kallur, Oct 23rd, 2021

Grit style climbing between the left Arete & the crack, directly under the tree, Grit stone style sketchy climbing in Bangalore!

One placement in the horizontal crack to the left, use the arete, and then get on the face to sling a horn, and then over the ledge to anchor the tree.

A fall before slinging the horn will be certain ground fall. Belayer needs to be attentive.

Rack: A hand sized cam, a sling, and some large nuts.

Anchor: Tree and cracks.

Natural anchor: Tree

FFA: Aravind Selvam, Aug 2017

The boulder is immediately left (west) of the Red Sea Boulder. The three- placement crack problem. Challenging to protect this crack with crashpads. Also, watch your placements. At least, one known case of gear ripping out on a fall.

Facing: South

Rack: Fist sized cams and below.

Anchor: Possible to build an anchor about 10-12 feet behind, with small pieces

Natural Anchor: None

FFA: Onsighted by Aravind Selvam in early 2017

The crux is in the first 10 odd feet. The take off, and getting into the crack is a reach and the crux. The intensity continues past the third crack as well, until the slab.

Placements are from difficult stances. Much easier to highball this line out.

Rack: Small to mid-sized cams. The first crack takes a ball-nut, but rather a single crashpad might be better.

Anchor: Long anchors using the boulders and cracks behind.

Natural anchor: Possible, but will require, really long lengths (50- or 60-foot) of cordage.

FKA: Gaurav Jagadish, Nov 24th, 2021.

Hand to Off-Hands crack.

The hand crack gradually widens to an Off-Hand size (wider than fist but narrower than the Off-width size).

Facing: North/West

Other lines: Couple of top ropeable lines to the right, and outside of the crack, one using the crack as the arete, and the other, going far right, and along the corner arete. To the east, where one could exit from the tree, a soloable line through the center (the base doesn’t seem to accommodate crashpads), or an exposed scramble from the left of the tree.

Rack: To protect the line, #3 & #4. Or Hexes. Perfect crack for the hexes. The Off-hands size of the crack at the crux is too big for a #3 and too small for the #4. Metolius #9 fits better. Or use a #3 and bump it up before running out the crux.

Anchor: Hand sized cams to #3 cam (doubles of #3 or Hexes).

Natural Anchor: Difficult, but possible.

Exit: Rappel off of a tree to the east. (The exit from the east is boulderable line, but mildly exposed, can also be scrambled from the left of the tree)

FKA: Sohan & Amrit, nd July 2 , 2021

Finger crack and crimps

Bouldery start to the finger crack, and aesthetic movement define this line.

Grade appropriate sustained climbing along the crack and with the crimps to the right.

The placements are as exciting as the climb itself. A couple small to intermediate (preferably offset) nuts in the crack (DMM Offsets number #7 & #9).

Facing: south

Rack: Small to hand sized pieces.

Anchor: best in the crack at the point where it ends at the top out. Else, one #4 inside the cave, around the boulder to the right, and a piece for directional to the left.

Natural anchor: None. Hip belay stance possible.

Route credit & FKA: Sohan, July 17th, 2021 with support from Amrit Appaden and Kiran Kallur.

The line bang in the center of the face, facing the Kanakapura road.

High first bolt, appropriate for the grade. Crimp-fest on slab.

Well-protected with four bolts.

Route by Shyam Krishnakumar & Sohan. FA: Sudhir Pawar. November 9th,

2022.

Route by Sohan and Tanvi. FA - Vikram Murthy

Starts on the slab, goes over the roof, and traverses left. Crux move requires balance moves using thin finger pinches.

Route credit: Sohan & Satish Venkatachaliah. FFA, Aby Iyer. (Dec 2015).

This is the 3rd route from the left side. Bolted by Pranesh Manchaiah in August 2020. Clip into the first bolt from the ground and the first crux move is the dyno start. There are other crux moves at bolt 3 and 4.

Starts from the boulder and is a sustained 5.10c climb that requires intense route finding on thin but solid holds.

Top rope route by Pranesh Manchiah & Keerthi Pais, bolted for lead by Sohan Pavuluri & Satish Venkatachaliah. FFA, Sohan Pavuluri

The first bolt is a bit exposed but optimally situated. Takeoff on a mildly overhanging boulder, make the first clip and then face the first crux of the route, which requires dynamic moves for folks of average or shorter height.

Then after a mildly runout 3-odd meter traverse, another out of reach bolt on the headwall that requires a technical move to make the clip. The short, but intense headwall is well protected.

Old school grade. Feels harder by a grade or two than the given grade. Is the hardest route amongst all the routes here.

Route credit, Dinesh Kaigonhalli. Rebolted with Rawl bolts in 2016 by BCI, including the addition of top bolts.

The route starts on the boulder at the base of the crag, protected by a bolt, and continues up, directly under the roof. If you traverse right along the crack, you would have taken an easy variation of the original route.

The initial slab moves on the boulder take off and the roof transition are the hardest moves in this entire climb. Otherwise, will go at 5.10a or b for a small section and considerably lower for rest of the route.

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah

This variation follows the same line but uses the crack instead of the bolts after the fourth bolt on the roof. And then again you clip the penultimate bolt to protect the slab.

The route is on the right side of Prema's Chapathi and traverses from the start to right and then back to left. The route is bow shaped.

Follow the arête, right of the boulder at the base, clip right and traverse right. The start is on thin holds on the slab and doesn't letup for next four-five bolts. Thereafter, the next crux is a long-reach slab move, before the route traverse left and straight up.

The first bolt is a bit exposed with serious consequences. Stick clip, or clip while exiting the route to its left (Prema’s Chapati)

Route credit, Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah

Well protected slab characterised by delicate moves, high steps and side pulls

The stiff slab start gets you on to a ledge under the tree and the crux involves getting over the roof, with no good feet to assist.

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah.

Another stiff slab start. Stiffer than the start of the route #6. After the initial hard slabby moves for about 12 feet, the route becomes a 5.8 climb.

There is a particular beta to make this easier than it seems. Figure it!

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah

Another four-pitch route added in Dec 2023.

P1: 5.7, 6 + 2 bolts, 20-meters Slab. Hanging belay

P2: 5.10a/b, 5 + 2 bolts, 20-meters Crux between the 3rd to the 4th bolt. Steeper slab. Hanging belay

P3: 5.10b/c, 6 + 2bolts, 30-meters Crux between 2nd and the 4th bolts. The seeming bulge in the rock provides for opportunity to solve the crux. The second half eases off significantly.

P4: 5.7, 6 + 2 bolts, 30-meters From the airy belay station, a relaxing and satisfying finisht to the route.

Route by Sohan & Zaman Ishtiaq

Four-pitch route, similar length as Namaste to its left.

P1: 5.6, 3 bolts + 2, 30 meters Comfortable anchor station.

P2: 5.8, 4 bolts + 2, 30 meters The slab begins to get slightly vertical between the 2nd and the 4th bolts. Crux of the pitch at the 4th bolt. Comfortable anchor station.

P3: 5.10b/c, 8 bolts + 2, 20 meters The money-pitch, along the corner and the slab. Sustained grade and well-bolted, the crux between the 4th and the 8th bolts. Hanging belay.

P4: 5.10a, 7 bolts + 2, 25 meters Steeper slab. Watch for a potential fall onto the belayer before clipping the second bolt. From the anchor station, head over the easy slab to a large boulder hidden amidst the grass to top out, or abseil from here. If topping out, hike right to exit out. Or find the top bolts of another route below the large boulder sitting at the edge to the left, to rap off.

5.10c. 45 meters. Multi-pitch

P1: 5.10c. 20 meters. 5 + 2 bolts.

The route traverses significantly from left to right. And with sharp ledges. Not a great route for top roping.

The crux is the first half of the first pitch. Over the mildly overhanging ledge, a sloper crux! Traverse right on the ledge with feet close to the edge and continue the suffer fest on sharp rock that threatens your rope constantly.

P2: 5.6. 25 meters. 3 + 2 bolts.

Left to right diagonal route, with spaced out bolts on easy terrain. Allows you to top out.

Exit: 35-meter rappel, or walk left, over to the top bolts of Kurma, and rappel in two lengths (5 meters & 30 meters)

Route by Sohan Pavuluri & Narayan Pai, FFA: Nipha Venkatesh

Bolted and incomplete route.

A Dinesh Kaigonhalli bolted route.

This is the 4th lead route from the left side on the upper wall.

Shares the last 4 bolts and the top anchors with Nagarahaavu route.

Top anchors bolted in 2019. Bolted for lead on 14th Feb 2021.

Three-pitch bolted route.

Anna, facing the highway.

Dini route. 1994

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

Mixed Sport and Trad line. This singular climb is located on the upper Achalu wall. You could either climb one of the routes on the lower Achalu wall to reach it or hike up from the right-side ridge. Once you climb the lower Achalu wall, the top is a plateau/ledge, and then the upper Achalu wall rises above it. The approach is a bit of an adventure in itself; through the thicket at the base. The route is extremely rewarding experience.

Gear needed: 60-meter rope. A dozen draws (including alpine draws). Rack from #.3 through #2, and two-three tricams (pink/red/brown).

P1: 5.10a. 20 meters. 4 bolts plus a couple of placements + 2 bolts.

Starts on a diagonal crack, left to right, and then traverses right for two bolts, then straight up. Crux involves the traverse from bolt one to two, and then again just after the fourth bolt.

P2: 5.10d. 25 meters. 9 + 2 bolts. Sustained and pumpy moves. Mildly runout after the 9th bolt.

P3. 5.9. 32 meters. 3 bolts plus series of placements + 2.

A series of horizontal cracks and a single bolt for about 40 feet. Thereafter, no protection on 5.6 terrain for 12 odd meters, until the next bolt. Then angle left for 10 meters on the slab, to find the anchor station.

Route credit and FFA: Jakob Jo, Paul Zeltner & Adwaith Manohar (2014). The route was retro bolted in Jan 2018 per the request of Paul & Jakob to make it safer. Previously there were two bolts on P1, four bolts on P2, and one bolt on P3. If you wish to follow the old line, avoid all bolts that have Gipfel hangers. Before being retro bolted, the route saw one partial second ascent upto P2, by Vineeth Katarki and Ravee Bhat. • Exit by walking off to the right and exiting off the lower Achalu.

Rack upto # 3 BD cams, single rack.

Route credit and FA: Selena Pang & Sohan Pavuluri. Jan 2016.

This and the next two routes start on a ‘flake’ or a boulder jutting out from the main face, with the crack running around it.

Start below the crack, either use the crack to the right (without bolts), or go on the face with two bolts, and then onto the slab.

Crux at the start of headwall. Split wide, toe in, grab the pinch, and dyno to the ledge. Crux two, delicate route finding just before the penultimate bolt.

Watch for the nettles type of shrub at the base to the right. Besides the quickdraws for protection, wear long pants and sleeves, and also carry some anti- histamines.

Route credit: Sohan & Vinayak Malla. Jan 2019

FFA: Vinayak Malla

As you hike up to the sport routes from the north, a large boulder at the base of the hike with an off-width crack facing north.

Starts with fists and quickly turns into an off-width. At the crux takes series of #4 cams (3/4 of them, and then a couple of #5, and then a #6.

An aided ascent in July 2019. No free ascents as yet.

Bold first pitch with no gear in first 10 to 15m

Old bolts with a fence at the base. Hence currently not safe to climb.