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Eintrag
Alborz
Shahdej

Shahdej group

Shahdej
6c Golden Eagle

A nice route on the corner of a nice cliff , with amazing big cracks and nice face climbing

6b Marathon

A long and multipitch pure trad climbing on this wall .

6a+ Thunder

A stunning slab climbing . just a tree on the way to have lunch .

Baraghan

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

Baraghan
Upper Baraghan (Zone B)

Finding the upper field of Baraghan is not that obvious but there should be a path from the road and upwards the opposite direction of Zone A

Baraghan Upper Baraghan (Zone B)
5.10c Polur

A nice small crack on the corner of the rock , with beautiful balancey movement

5.11c Laneh ( Nest )

Nice slab with small holds and some holes . Really amazing

5.11c Pashneh ( Heel )

An amazing slab with lots of heels movement on it . Small ledges ends to the chain in the anchor

5.11d khoshdast

Strong moves between holes on the wall and a small traverse to left and the anchor .

5.10c Charyar

Nice slab with many holes on it . The route is easy mostly except the last move on the slab before traverse to the anchor

5.10d Sadr

nice beautiful slab goes up and then traverse below a small overhang to right and to the anchor

5.12b Rola Rola

A tough slab with small holds start with some hard movement

5.12d Khesht

Start from the ground and goes directly up to the overhang just continue to the right of overhang . Small holes and tough slab

5.12d Memory

Common with Khesht on last part but it passes directly through the overhang .

5.12a Khoshmaghz

Goes up and common with Memory on the first part but instead of going to overhang it starts to pass and traverse diagonally to the left and up .

5.12b Ferche

moves through the edge of the rock on the left side of Khosh maghz route .

Femin

Finding the upper field of Baraghan is not that obvious but there should be a path from the road and upwards the opposite direction of Zone A

Kavian

Finding the upper field of Baraghan is not that obvious but there should be a path from the road and upwards the opposite direction of Zone A

Baraghan
Baraghan (Zone A)

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

Baraghan Baraghan (Zone A)
5c Anushe

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

6a Mikalanj

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

5.11b Soli

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

7b Morabbi ( Instructor )

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

6a Ganj

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

5.12b Kargadan ( Rhino )

Unfinished

5.12b Sami

moves on the left edge of the third cave

5.13a Nikta

common with Ati until the end part and Nikta goes to left .

7a Ati

On the edge of the third cave , directly goes up to the chain anchor

5.13a Bache Tehron ( From Tehran )

an amazing route on the roof of the second cave with good holds but breathtaking movements .

5.14a Khon Asham

Plenty of parking by the road. There is a path from the parking to the other side of the river. The cave is very obvious from the road.

5.13a Pedaropesar ( Father and the son )

Moves directly toward the roof of the second cave to come out and join the manoto route .

5.13a manoto ( Me and You )

on the right corner of the second cave , it moves up on the ledge with some amazing movements and then traverse to left .

7b+ Adventures of Pinocchio

Enter the smaller cave and turn around facing the outside. The route starts on your right and traverses the roof to left, ending at the centre of the cave. Cruxy start, sustained at the beginning but eases towards the end. Crag classic.

5.10d 2 saleha ( 2 years old )

on the right corner of the rock , a slab with good holds but a bit far from each other shows itself

7a+ Delbar

First cave, on the left. Bouldery start that continues on with sustained climbing. Finish up on Adventure of Pinocchio bolted anchor

7b Javaherpour

Start from the inside of the left opening of the larger cave, continue on to leave the cave on two finger pockets and small positive crimps and climb straight up kneebaring and pinching between the two tufas to the top. Bouldery finish.

7b/b+ Haji Firooz

On the outer lip of the right side of the smaller cave. A reasonably steep and slightly overhang start. Continues on across the outer face of the cave. Technical moves near the top with very small crimps and foot holds.

8b Mr. Nobody

The slippery limestone roof crack line at the end of the bigger cave, starting from the right and going to left, ending at the centre of the roof. Requires plenty of hand and foot jamming to send. There is no kidding around on this route. It needs plenty of technique and endurance as you are hanging off the roof for 20m. Bonus points if you find the kneebar giving you upside down handsfree rest. End with a bouldery problem at the anchor. The route has seen several attempts by European climbers. Could potentially be done trad.

5.12a Mano Negah kon ( Look at me )

Nice and amazing crack

Polekhab

For description there is a English language guide for Pol-e Khab

Polekhab
5.11d Arash

Same bolts as route Khanum Khoshgeleh at the beginning, than the route goes left.

5.10c Khanom Khoshgele
5.12c Mohre Mar
5.13a Nadi (morteza)

Name of the route is standing at the wall

5.11b Brono

You see the route name at the wall. Climbing up to the roof and than traverse to the right.

5.10b Wolf
5.12b Totem
5.12c/d Guy Daniel
5.13a/b Malek
5.12d/13a Zemestan
5.11b Omid

You see the route name on the wall. About 17 routes left of Iranian Swiss.

..
5.14a Iran-swiss
6a Kaj

Bit tricky the first two or three draws. From onto the shelf and up top a pretty easy climb

6+ Armin
5.12b Farshad

Start off a small crack, on reachy moves up to a small overhang. Sloppy holds and sustained moves over it (cruxy). Slippery holds to the anchor.

5.12a Shekaaf Davoodi

Beautiful 20m long crack, up to a small rooflet on the left. Anchors on top of the rooflet

5.12d G.H.M

By the French Alpine Club, on the face right of the dihedral. Start of the small vertical holds on a minor cruxy slab

5.12b Parastooha

Tricky for the grade starting from the dihedral. Sustained climb getting harder as you go up. Traverse right to the rooflet, continuing on to the crack that opens up as you go up. Poor feet. To the chimney and another small overhang. Crack climb to the anchor.

5.13d Pink Panther

Route on the arete. Technical moves on very small balancy holds. Topp out on Parastooha anchor.

5.11b H

Crag classic. A crack that could be climbed trad. Technical feet moves to the crescent looking crack. A strong bloudery move, layback to the top of the first pitch. The first pitch is popular at 7a/11b. Bolted crack that finishes with an 8m sharp layback crack that climbs beautifully.

5.11d Doostat daram

A gorgeous crack on good quality rock. 10m up and then start traversing right along the rooflet. A small overhang crux to the anchor points. Could be climbed trad.

5.11a Shirin

A great route. Start Right of the bolted rightwards arcing crack (Doostat daram) and climb the face traversing right past increasingly delicate moves on great rock.

5.12a Madar (mother)

Starts of Shirin but traverse lower than Shirin and end up on Shirin's anchor.

5.12a Esi

Starts with a bouldery problem and onto a slabby climb to the anchor

5.11d Zire baran

Starts off a small awkward crack on a slab. Climb 15m to reach a small overhang on the right. Traverse right to the larger rooflet, ending up the right of the rooflet (spicy). Face climb on friction holds to the anchor

Eftekhar

Face climbing on very small balancy, reachy holds. Sounds inviting, doesn't it?

5.12b Boycott

Vertical climb on small holds. Awkward and technical. Up the arete and onto the face. A skewed crack with decreasing footholds. Barndoor heaven!

5.10d/11a Rojja

Crag classic - Starts in the chimney onto an overhang. Technical climb the dihedral to a small rest. Move slightly to the right and climb up to the anchor.

5.12a Q

Start steming on slabs, sustained moves to the top.

5.10b Sisakht

The first pitch (25m) is a good warm up in its own right and is popular. First pitch has a baby crux. Variety of holds to the anchor. The second pitch (25m) follow a crack to a ledge and is a bit sustained.

  1. 14 FB

  2. 9FB

5.11c Rastakhiz

Shares the same first two pitches as Sisakht. Technical face start and a slight traverse to the right.

5.10c Bobo

Balancy face climb.

5.10c Abroftiha

Start of the end of Sisakht.

  1. 7 FB - easy climb

  2. 11 FB - variety of holds. Walk around the big rock and to your right to belay off to the middle of the wall and then to the ground. Requires double ropes for rapelling.

5.12d/13a Ayandegan

Balancy, reachy powerful moves. Starts on the slab and a big crux over the rooflet.

5.10a/b Marmoolak

A popular slabby route. The name comes from the nature of the movements, stretching hands and feet as a lizard. It can be climbed either direct to the top at 6b+ (recommended) or by darting rock to the crack at about 2/3 height.

5.10b .
5.10c Negar
  1. One piton. Trad. Slightly awkward dihedral requiring fancy moves. Start next to the bush. Grab your small and med size cams

  2. 9 FB. Could be done trad. Great little pitch. Mid sized cams, nuts, and balancy moves. Two small rooflets, easy first, spicy 2nd

5.12b Super 8

Face climb on slight overhang. Crimpy with small footholds. 9 FB

5.10c Kolahake Salam

Some i*iot has bolted this! Do it Trad as it's safer and more fun! Start from the small crack up to the rooflet, continue on along the crack. Grab a set of small cams (up to red cam)

5.11a NTM

Take a long rope with you

  1. 8 FB. Climb on small crimps with two small cracks at the start and near the top. Easy for tall folks, not so easy for the vertically challenged. Good footwork and technique saves the day.

  2. 7 FB. Move slightly to the right. Face climb to a small rooflet with solid holds. Tricky traverse with pumpy moves.

  3. 9 FB. Face climb. Balancy on good friction holds.

5.11c Hizomkar

Named after Hizomkar (climbing instructor). Face climb to the small rooflet on small crimps with tricky moves.

5.10b Chakkosh
  1. no bolts. beautiful layback with nice jugs.

  2. one bolt under the overhang bit. Face climb on slight overhang to the right. Has one carrot bolt

  3. 2 bolts right at the top. Start from the left of the anchor up the crack. Practice your gear placement (set of cams, blue to yellow). Sit on the roof with your climbing buddy.

Polekhab Canyon

The crag that is about a km left of the main wall, just past the divide.

Polekhab Canyon
5.9 Zabane Sorkh

A short offwidth crack requiring some size 5 and 6 BD friends/cams

5.10a/b Tagarg

Bring along a set of BD friends/cams up to #2 and double on smaller cams. Add some small nuts for good measure.

5.10c/d Jooje keshish

A set of friends/cams (double of .3, .75, .1 and .2) and a #5 to make the roof less spicy

5.9 Sare sabz

Mid to large size cams/friends

5.11a Khers

A bouldery start to easier climb. Technical moves near the top for a glorious finish on good quality rock

5.10d Sorheh

Same start as the Khers. Technical moves on the arete.

Iriliq

Mixed

Bozghale

Mixed

Kalvan

Drive past Polekhab for seven/eight minutes and you'll see a road sign to Kalvan. Turn into the road and drive for another five minutes. Park the car and start walking (slightly uphill) for 15 minutes or so.

Kalvan
5.12c Faramarz be quiet

The left variation of Iran Merinus, named in the honour of setters' good friend Faramarz who's apparently a bit of a handful 60 something year old dude. Smear away to a powerful bouldery move to the overhang.

5.12b Iranmerinos (crack)

A bouldery start on the overhang, onto small balancy stem-ing footholds. Traverse the roof crack to the cruxy move on the second roof. Adventurous hidden moves behind the rock and up to the anchor.

5.12a Iranmerinos (face)

Instead of going up the crack on the 2nd rooflet, go for the bouldery moves on the face.

5.13b Abbas is sleeping

The other friend of the setters -Abbas- a local legend, tends to spend his time sleeping at the crag. Double crux goodness at the start and end of the route. Technical moves on the vertical wall on small crimps and credit card footholds. Balancy.

5.10a Kelas avaliha

Drive past Polekhab for seven/eight minutes and you'll see a road sign to Kalvan. Turn into the road and drive for another five minutes. Park the car and start walking (slightly uphill) for 15 minutes or so.

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