Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Do 26. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Emisfero | ||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Luce - mit Sammi | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Two ways at the top and hard to clip bolt in the middle. Which way will you choose?
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6c+ | ★★ Greenwich - mit Sammi | 22m | ★ Gut | |||
Yeesh. What a start!
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Do 26. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Erboristeria Bassa | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Nepenta - mit Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Kind of mega, up and through the largest overhang. Bolt to bolt. Hard crux at the lip.
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Mi 25. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Erboristeria Alta | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Senna — 2 Versuche - mit Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
The only dry route on the sector today. Fell at the last possible place you could fall on the OS, of course
Monster pitch.
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Mi 25. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Segreto | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Violetta - mit Sammi | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Pretty cool - some interesting gneiss-like rock on this section.
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6b+ | ★★ Beautiful - mit Sammi | 17m | ★ Gut | |||
Mostly in the eye of the beholder.
|
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Mo 23. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Erboristeria Alta | ||||||
7b+/c schwer | ★★★ China rossa — 2 Versuche - mit Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
This was mega. Mostly huge, Rodellar-like jugs up and through the massive overhang. Crux section was a tricky read on the brilliant white stone. [2]
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Verbena - mit Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Best route of this grade I've done in the valley.
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Henne' - mit Sammi | Vergiss es | ||||
Maybe you'll enjoy it. Not I.
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Sa 21. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Emisfero | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Pioggia - mit Sammi | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Punchy top section.
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6b+ | ★ Brina - mit Sammi | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
Not the best.
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6c | ★★ Fuoco - mit Sammi | 18m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mostly good holds and consistent.
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6c+ | ★★ Aria - mit Sammi | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Trixy middle section.
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7a+ | ★ Clima — 2 Versuche - mit Sammi | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Super weird start I botched. [2]
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6a | ★ Meteora - mit Sammi | 16m | ★ Gut | |||
Mi 18. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Antro di Castelbianco | ||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★ Blocca - mit Sammi | ★ Gut | ||||
The warm up eh? Nearly finished me.
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7b+ ~7c | ★★★ Godzilla — 3 Versuche - mit Sammi | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Steep and not easy to onsight [3]
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6a | ★ Pippo Is Back - mit Sammi | Durchschnitt | ||||
Guess who's back?
|
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6b | ★★ Transmaniac - mit Sammi | ★ Gut | ||||
Raining
|
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6b | ★ Marconi's Climbers - mit Sammi | Durchschnitt | ||||
Some good pulls on good edges
|
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Mo 16. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Guggenheim Grotta | ||||||
7c leicht | ★★★ Kandinsky - mit Sammi | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Suited up in full body armour against the wasps and climbed in total silence. [2]
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Mo 16. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Guggenheim Destro | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★ Masaccio - mit Sammi | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Repeat.
|
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6c | ★★ Monet — 2 Versuche - mit Sammi | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Yep, fell off a 6c. No further comment! [2]
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Mo 16. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Terminal | ||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ LE BOURGET - mit Sammi | 18m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Cool. Very close bolts, nice for this level.
|
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7a+ ~7b | ★★★ TOLMACHEVO - mit Sammi | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Maybe the best looking route I've seen in Val Pennavaire. Fairly blowing chunks on the onsight, lucky to come away with it.
|
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Sa 14. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Guggenheim Grotta | ||||||
7c leicht | ★★★ Kandinsky - mit Sammi | 17m | ||||
The ill-fated wasp sting route. Put the gear on and was preparing to lower and got stung in the face. Huge full body allergic reaction, bailed for medical attention. Still need to go get the gear off - that'll be exciting! May need Epipen instead of brush on chalkbag. 7c R/X
|
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7b ~7b+ | ★★ Picasso — 2 Versuche - mit Sammi | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Needed Google Maps up there. A confusion of close bolts and chalk everywhere. Good once you have an idea of where you're supposed to go. [2]
|
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Sa 14. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Guggenheim Destro | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★ Masaccio - mit Sammi | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Birds nest halfway at certain points in the year, but not in October.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Balla - mit Sammi | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice sequences.
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Fr 13. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Cineplex | ||||||
5c ~6a | ★ DIRTY DANCING - mit Sammi | 13m | ★ Gut | |||
Ramble to mincing crimp crux which must surely take its pound of noobflesh?
|
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6b ~6c | ★ FRONTE DEL PORTO - mit Sammi | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
Geared this up for Sam, then promptly stripped it.
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7b ~7b+ | ★★★ LA VITA FUTURA — 2 Versuche - mit Sammi | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
This one was close to onsight but botched sequence up top. [2]
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7b ~7b+ | ★★ ZELIG — 2 Versuche - mit Sammi | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Wasn't even close to onsighting this. Great route. [2]
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6a+ schwer | ★ SETTE ANIME - mit Sammi | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Oddly powerful.
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Mi 11. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Emisfero | ||||||
7a | ★★ Marea - mit Sammi | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Far better than it looks. Super good with mostly big holds and interesting sequences. A good one if you're looking for a 7a project that is actually close to 7a.
|
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7a ~7b | ★★★ Acqua - mit Sammi | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Whoa Nelly! This was brutal. Brick pumped with weird crux on quarter pad edges. 7a? lol! Onsight limit!
|
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Tuono - mit Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Wandery, adventurous and excellent.
|
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6a+ schwer | ★ Neve - mit Sammi | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Nice shorter one to warm up on.
|
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7a ~7a+ | ★★★ Stella | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The crag of sidepulls! Such a crazy wall.
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Di 10. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Dhome | ||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Mimosa - mit Sammi | 14m | ★ Gut | |||
It's looking like the grading here is two grades below the rest of Europe. That is, on par with sandbag Australia Two bouldery sections.
|
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6c ~6c+ | ★★ Moon - mit Sammi | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Tricky move down low. Amazing rock in the upper half.
|
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5c | Loft - mit Sammi | 14m | Durchschnitt | |||
It's just okay. Interesting top half.
|
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Di 10. Okt 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Erboristeria Bassa | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Ignatia - mit Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very good. Well worth doing, but not an easy romp.
|
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7a ~7b | ★★ Scilla - mit Sammi | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
First day, so everything felt hard. This one felt desperate!
|
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Mi 22. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Castelluzzo Crown of Aragon | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Training segreto - mit JJ | 17m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Every hold a big pocket. Just super!
|
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6b | ★ Bel tempo...bastardo! - mit JJ | 15m, 7 | Durchschnitt | |||
Nails warm up!
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Mega dave - mit JJ | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Gear it up.
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Mega dave - mit JJ | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
This crag cooks all day long. But on the LAST DAY of the trip we scored this freak windy and cloudy day, so I could go back for this one. Thanks Sicily weather gods. Great route! [3]
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Walk the line - mit JJ | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Undercooked the throw to the pocket.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Walk the line - mit JJ | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Tickety tick. Last route in Sicily Now signing off theCrag. Back to work.
|
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Di 21. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Fakirella beach Campo Base | ||||||
7c+ | ★★ Spacelab - mit Sam and JJ | 22m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The sun was inexorably creeping across the wall, no time to rest, go go go! I raced the sun and the sun won. But I ticked.
|
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8a | ★★ Teamwork - mit Sam and JJ | 13m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This was surprising, and great. From not being able to get off the ground on my first try to totally walking it with near-French style. [2.1 :)]
|
||||||
5c | ★★ Nini - mit Sam and JJ | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This was the perfect warm up for the 8a. Apparently! 60+ people at this one section of wall today. WTF!?
|
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7c+ | ★★ Spacelab - mit Sam and JJ | 22m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
After Teamwork, thought I should have a go. Why not?
|
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Mo 20. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Fakirella beach Campo Base | ||||||
8a | ★★ Teamwork - mit Sam and JJ | 13m, 8 | ||||
Got back on it after seeing some French guys kill it. Did all the moves in sweaty conditions. No French style though. Grunting, sweating Australian. Sigh.
|
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7a | ★★ Passepartout - mit Sam and JJ | 20m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The mono is NOT the hard bit!
|
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6b+ | ★ Miracoli - mit Sam and JJ | 20m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Doesn't climb where you think it does. Still, fairly nice.
|
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So 19. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Monte Monaco Cattedrale nel Deserto | ||||||
6b | ★★ Piedi piedi - mit Sam and a host of laughing people | 16m, 8 | ||||
Was gunning for the huge 40m 7b that splits off this. Two metres into the 7b it became clear someone had sprayed extra virgin olive oil all over the cliff. Traversing back to the 6b, I thought I would do it instead. A few more bolts up I turned into a lizard in a bathtub. Tried all the tricks. Forcefeeding chalk to the holds. Chalking my boots. Chanting "Ondra, Ondra, Ondra!" Nope. Stop! Whipper time! Might as well have been 8c, there was no getting up this today by fair means or foul.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Trade union - mit Sam | 20m, 8 | ★ Gut | |||
Had to do this to experience Sam's runout. I was alarmed.
|
||||||
6c | ★★ La mano nera - mit Sam | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Just like 'Equatorial' in Thailand. Classic. Was 7a, and you know, it might be.
|
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6b | ★★ Calcarea - mit Sam | 22m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So this wall is one of the most amazing in San Vito, but, like Kalydna, it gets damp/wet, and not from rain. It's like the rock sweats. We had a strong breeze all day and it never dried. Weird - there were 30 climbers here yesterday!
|
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6c | ★★ Comment te dire adieu? (Comment ti dire adieu ?) - mit Sam | 30m, 14 | Vergiss es | |||
It's just not great. But when everything else is damp...
|
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6b+ | ★★ Il sale della terra - mit Sam | 30m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This was mentally exhausting. Well worth doing, but expect a lot of climbing. Not easy.
|
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Fr 17. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Custonaci Rocca di Cerriolo | ||||||
7c | ★★ Nella Bolla - mit Sam and JJ | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
OS to the lip.
|
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7c | ★★ Nella Bolla - mit Sam and JJ | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I think that was the most desperate send of the trip so far, due to exhaustion. Somehow managed to snag the dyno. Need rest day!
|
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7c+ | ★★ Porco Spino - mit Sam and JJ | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Did all moves, but that final compression section and throw which I could do well off the rope I couldn't seem to get dialled from a few moves lower. Certainly made my skin sore.
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6b+ | ★★ Keep cool - mit Sam and JJ | 34m, 15 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Long. A good warmup at this level.
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Do 16. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Grotta del cavallo Grotta del cavallo | ||||||
7b+ | Araba-ttati | 19m | Durchschnitt | |||
Confusing top.
|
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7b+ | Araba-ttati | 19m | Durchschnitt | |||
Once sorted, easy. Who is clipping the anchor off that pocket? Not me, that's for sure!
|
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7c+ | Mescuitos | Vergiss es | ||||
One long and hard jump. Need tape and motivation to hold it.
|
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6c+ | ★ Via la discordia | ★ Gut | ||||
Yes. Slipped off the start. Lol.
|
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6c+ | ★ Via la discordia | ★ Gut | ||||
So that start is tricky huh?
|
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6c+ | ★★ Gaspare - mit Sam | 28m | ★ Gut | |||
I only barely, BARELY stuck the lower mono move. Pretty impressed with the Mrs
|
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6a | ★★ No Name3 - mit Sam | 22m | ★ Gut | |||
Sneaker ascent.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Il domatore di capre - mit Sam & JJ | 28m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A heap of variety in this one. Borderline classic.
|
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Mo 13. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Pietraia | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Red Alert - mit JJ | 24m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Onsighted to crux and then totally shut down. Tried 20 different things. Could not solve it! Maybe you have to be strong?
|
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6c+ | ★★ Red Peroni - mit Sam, JJ, Erik | 25m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Huge chimney-cleft. Wild overhung moves to exit onto the headwall, then crux pawing on prickle-slopers.
|
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7b 7a+ | ★★★ Seltsam anmutende Vollspacken (Seltsam ammutende vollspacken) - mit Sam | 30m, 13 | ★ Gut | |||
Not a good warmup onsight.
|
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7b 7a+ | ★★★ Seltsam anmutende Vollspacken (Seltsam ammutende vollspacken) - mit Sam | 30m, 13 | ★ Gut | |||
A short grunty section through the bulge, then fine.
|
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So 12. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Grotta - Pineta | ||||||
7b | ★★ Il Minotauro - mit Sam | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
End of day destruction. Only just pulled it out. Placing gear.
|
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8a | ★★★ Schattenlinie (Schattenline) - mit Sam | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Oh yeah! Some guys were on it when I walked up so I had to queue. Decided to watch and make the most of it. Used my own beta on the crux and just managed to squeak through. A rare, magic moment of climbing for me.
|
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6a | ★ Straight edge - mit Sam | 14m, 5 | Durchschnitt | |||
Gearing up for Kathryn.
|
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So 12. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Scomparto dei rifiuti | ||||||
6c | ★★ La Bella Vita - mit JJ | 43m, 17 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A wandering, 40m adventure pitch. Good bits and crappy bits. Worth doing.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Swiss made - mit JJ | 23m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
This was just fantastic. Best route of this grade in San Vito. This, or maybe 'Training Segreto'.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Venus - mit JJ | 32m | ||||
Lotsa bees in the mid-height hole unfortunately. They got angry at me. Shame, the route looks tip top.
|
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6c+ | ★★ O brothers - mit JJ | 30m, 12 | Durchschnitt | |||
Not as good as its Kalymnos counterpart.
|
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Fr 10. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Custonaci Never Sleeping Wall | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Sweet dreams are made of this (Sweat dreams are made of this) - mit JJ | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sam wanted this one.
|
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8a 7c+ | ★★★ Evil lurks behind every man's heart - mit JJ | 55m, 21 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Marathon effort to get the gear on this 55m monster. Took 19 draws and ran out.
|
||||||
8a 7c+ | ★★★ Evil lurks behind every man's heart - mit Sam | 55m, 21 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
At 55m, makes Crossroads look short. About 4 or 5 cruxes which I really didn't want to blow. Maybe the longest pitch I have done. Biggest on wall. [2]
|
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Do 9. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Custonaci Never Sleeping Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Long sleep - mit JJ | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Long, pumpy and engaging tufa blob climbing forever.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Long white line - mit Sam | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mostly fairly easy, until suddenly it's not and you're waaaay runout. 15m falls maybe? Lots of air up there.
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Superman - mit JJ | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sorting it out, but then the sun came.
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Superman - mit Erik | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
JJ talked me into having a shot for photos in the sun. Lucky!
|
||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Tears of freedom - mit JJ | 35m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
This is probably the King Line of the cliff. Mighty blob and tufa pitch. Don't grab the anchor Bianca.
|
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Di 7. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Grotta del cavallo Grotta del cavallo | ||||||
7c | Tubo di Friend - mit Erik | |||||
I reckon I'd give this one 8a. Fingery, slippery, and super sustained once you enter the business. Just barely managed to dog my way through.
|
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Di 7. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Cala Mancina Grotta Cala Mancina | ||||||
7c 7b+ | ★★ Mal di Schiena - mit JJ | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This was pretty awesome. Big pockets up a steep wall of marble.
|
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6c | ★★★ Toyo 17 - mit JJ | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
The line of the cliff. A huge overhung fissure. Erik was THE MAN flashing this beast. Tick of the day. #cannoligate
|
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Mo 6. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Pineta | ||||||
6c | ★★ The Hole - mit JJ | 27m, 11 | ★ Gut | |||
Harder than you'd think to get into.
|
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Mo 6. Okt 2014 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Grotta - Pineta | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Per I Nostri Amici (Per Nostre Amici) - mit JJ | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
JJs best route eva.
|
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7c+ 7c/c+ | ★★★ The Wish - mit JJ | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Missed the dyno on the onsight.
|