Routen in Gruppo Tofane

Beautiful route up the NW Face of the Castelletto. The route, bolted from the ground up during the first ascent, is equipped with 10mm bolts.

GETTING THERE From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant Ra Nona (1985m).

ACCESS Take path no. 412 that leads away from the bar towards Forcella Col dei Bos. After 10 minutes the path transforms into a dirt track; continue up to the Col (2330m), and from here do not follow signs right for the "Ferrata del Castelletto", but instead proceed along the path that leads to Val Travenanzes until the sign for "Ferrata Lipella". Turn off right, reach the "mysterious boulder" (so-called as it is neatly divided in half) and continue on for a further 5 minutes to reach the north-west face of the Castelletto (1.15 hrs from the car). The bolts can be easily seen from the path: Pacchia starts to the left of the yellow roof, close to the massive grey wet streak.

DESCENT From the summit either abseil using one 70m rope or, more comfortably, from the final belay treverse left along the wide ledge that leads onto the other side of the Castelletto. From here continue down the path in roughly 20 minutes to the base of the routes.

GEAR 8 quickdraws and one 70m rope.

NOTES The route is equipped with 57 bolts, 18 for the belays, and one on the summit to reach the crest.

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=393&id_tipologia=38

https://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=394&id_tipologia=38

5+ A2 or 6+ A1 obligatory. The most famous and popular route on this wall.

5+ A2 obligatory

Via nuova che si sviluppa lungo uno spigolo secondario della Tofana di Rozes formato da tre balzi di roccia che formano una grande torre staccata dalla parete del Primo Spigolo. La via è attrezzata con chiodi ad espansione lungo la via e soste su spit e catena

6b obligatory, exit same as for "Primo Spigolo".

The Primo Spigolo (First Edge) climbing route is a classic climbing route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites, Italy. It is considered one of the most sought-after climbs in the region. The Primo Spigolo follows the prominent ridge on the southwest face of Tofana di Rozes, offering a thrilling and exposed climbing experience.

The Primo Spigolo route requires technical climbing skills and experience, as it involves steep rock faces, exposed sections, and challenging moves. The climbing difficulty is graded V, which translates to a challenging and demanding climb.

The route is characterized by its excellent rock quality, with solid and compact Dolomite limestone. Climbers can expect a combination of face climbing, chimney climbs, and exposed ridge traverses, all of which add to the excitement and adventure of the climb.

The Primo Spigolo climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers not only a physically demanding climbing experience but also stunning panoramic views of the Dolomite peaks and valleys. Source Powrock

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=277&id_tipologia=38

7a obligatory

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route is indeed a popular and challenging route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route, also known as Terzo Spigolo climbing route, follows the prominent south ridge of Tofana di Rozes. It is considered one of the classic and demanding climbs in the Dolomites, offering a mix of technical climbing and exposed sections.

The route includes steep rock faces, exposed sections, and some chimney climbs, providing an exciting and physically demanding climbing experience.

The difficulty of the Alverà Pompanin route is graded as UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) V. The climbing route, 700 meters long, unfolds in 17 lengths with an elevation gain of 550 meters.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers a memorable and rewarding climbing experience, combining stunning views with a challenging ascent in the beautiful Dolomite landscape. Source Powrock

6c obligatory

6/A2 obligatory

http://www.quartogrado.com/volume2_2/relazioni/PIRAMIDE%20COL%20DEI%20BOS_Spigolo%20Alpini.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-gaudeamus-col-dei-bos/

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/coldeibos/coldeibos.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-ada-plus-col-dei-bos/

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/coldeibos1/coldeibos1.htm

http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/COL%20DEI%20BOS_Ada.htm

The Via Ferrata Lipella is a popular equipped climbing route located in the Tofane di Rozes of the Dolomites in Italy. It is known for its stunning views and challenging sections, making it a thrilling experience for adventurous hikers.

The climbing route of Via Ferrata Lipella is rated as difficult and requires previous experience in via ferrata climbing techniques and a good level of physical fitness. It includes steep ascents, exposed traverses, and sections with ladders and cables to assist climbers. The route also offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Climbers should be equipped with appropriate gear for via ferrata climbing, including a climbing harness, helmet, and via ferrata kit. It is crucial to check the condition of the via ferrata and weather conditions before attempting the climb.

The Via Ferrata Lipella provides an exciting and challenging adventure in the Tofane di Rozes, allowing climbers to experience the beauty of the Dolomites while pushing their limits in a safe and controlled manner.

The Via Ferrata Lipella starts near the Duca d'Aosta Hut, which can be reached by taking the cable car from Cortina d'Ampezzo or near the Dibona Hut reachable by car. From the huts, the route follows a well-marked path that leads to the start of the via ferrata. Source Powrock