Routen in Around Nairobi für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

Take Arthur's Horror as far as the big block belay below the final pitch. Take the obvious flake up from here and step right to small ledge. Continue up rightwards to a point below bolt. This route thrillingly makes its way up to the right of the bolt, edges leftwards above and up (fixed peg pro), to awkward moves on final few feet of cliff. You'll love every second! Downgrade to E2 6a in 2022.

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

The ultimate finger-tingler! Start 3m right of Bandana, Climb thin crack to obvious "pigeon-hole" at 4m. Move up bulge above on good holds, then two hard moves lead out rightwards across wall and up to easier ground.

The steep corner some 6m right of Matatu. Five fierce moves up thin crackline past bolt on right, leads to blank wall. Cruxy move right then easier step left below small roof. Over roof on good holds and to top.

A line consisting of beautiful moves until the usual Egyptian easy finish. Start up the first bolt of DIY/Ulf Carlsson Memorial Climb, and instead of going right, go straight up, to the small pockets above, up towards the larger/pocket/jug before moving to the crack on the left and exiting the hard climbing.

Gear is thin and thoughtful but there throughout the climb if you look for it. first ascent was headpointed.

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

A hard mixed route - don't believe the old guide which calls this a "genuine sport climb"! Take some small nuts and cams as well as quickdraws for the three bolts. Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top.

Right up there with the best. Climb the face 3m right of Eagle's Nest Crack and over a slight bulge to the root. Move up to scoop, step left, up to bolt. Climb up rightwards (crux), to horizontal crack then left to vertical crack and follow this to top.

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

Best climbed when cliff is in the shade. Start 30' right of Anglepoise just left of a prominent boulder on the ground. Climb bulge and layback crack to a small tree. Swing right and layback (crux) to a niche. Follow horizontal crack right to easier ground.

This climb was originally climbed as an aid route by Barry Cliff and John Hull in 1963, and it then lay dormant until Henry Barber climbed it free in 1978. The first moves off the ground and the daring sequence across the final roof were the crux sections of the route. In 1989, without realising it had been climbed free, Herve Sergeraert did the route adding a more direct (but easier) way between the initial difficulties and the finishing roof which has become known as the "Paradise Variation''. During this ascent Herve placed a bolt on the roof, which Barber had originally led with nuts. The route is best done incorporating the Paradise Variation, but if it belongs to anyone it must surely be Barber. Start about 9m right of Thin Wall where there is an obvious edge. Three very hard moves up an overhanging wall then step left to the foot of crack. Climb up right along crack and shallow corner to Baboon Ledge. Traverse 3m right to big groove below the roof. Up groove then right (bolt), across wall. Join the pillar and climb the slab on its right.

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

The toughest black hole in Kenya...." If we had a four star rating this would warrant the extra star. A beautiful exercise in precision. Start 6m right of Journey Into Space, where an awkward pull up leads to the first bolt. Delicate moves right past a second bolt leads to a difficult step down into the Black Hole. Swing out on wall on right and mantle shelf to ledge and scoop. Pull up bulging wall above to break in overhang. Strenuous moves up overhang (crux), past bolt to difficult exit rightwards. Step right to crack and up to ledge. Easily to top.

Towards the right end of Lower Cliffs, and about 15m left of The Hood, there is a bulging wall with a bolt at 3m. Climb overhang on right of bolt with difficulty (crux). Move up rightwards to second bolt and climb above with difficulty, to reach easier ground.

For stout-hearted bachelors only! Start 6m right of Ride Like The Wind where an obvious root rises from the ground, just left of where the main overhang begins. Move up left to overhang. Bolt up on right. Climb overhang in pain just left of bolt and proceed carefully to horizontal break below main overhang. Move up this just left of bolt, then move right along lip of overhang 2.5m until good jugs lead up to bolt belay above. A rewarding excursion.

To the right of The Moronic Inferno. Crux between the forth and fifth bolts.

This used to be an aid route called Soliloquy. In an incredible piece of climbing, Herve Sergeraert slowly whittled down the aid, and finally led it completely free. Many bolts and pegs were used on the original aid ascent, and since these still remain, the route is essentially "sport climb". However, beware some of the pegs as they a rusty and mobile. It used to be probably the most difficult route at Lukenya, although now it has been surpassed by a handful of other lines in Nemesis, Egyptian Crag and Gumshoe itself. In the centre of the main overhang is an obvious groove and crack beginning at 40'. Start 10' right of the groove and climb with dignity. The second half has lichens, making the on sight more rewarding...

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

This route is hard to beat Sustained, stylish moves in a superb position guarantee it a place at the top of the best there is at Lukenia. It climbs the orange wait of the obvious prow on the right of Window Buttress. Start 6m right of Dream Twister at a corner crack which is easily climbed for 3m to a small ledge on the right. Make the most of this - it is the last rest on the climb. Two small wires (#2 and #3 RP's), can be rigged here to protect the tricky move up to the first bolt. The route veers rightwards below the first bolt then up to the obvious bulging grey wall which is the crux of the route (bolt on right). Above the grey wall, the climb continues with difficulties to the third bolt. Steep, delicate climbing leads directly above to the top.

Named after two women who keep the route opener on his toes. To the left of a small tree is a thin crack that trends leftwards, finishing left and up of the last bolt (anchor hidden behind a small ledge over the overhang. A steep route that has a sting in its tail.

This route starts in the same hole as the start of Turbulence and As Good as it Gets, but goes left and straight up from the hole. The crux comes between the second and third bolts, with the route then going straight up, cutting through a shared bolt on Turbulence through some big moves through the overhang directly above.

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

The obvious square corner on the left of the face has now been climbed free. Not as good as it looks. Hard start up corner leads to very difficult bridging at 9m. A mantleshelf enables easier climbing to be reached 6m below top.

Start on obvious horizontal to the right of Dump Truck. Navigate right to a big move and an easy top out.

Sit-start on the far left of the boulder, get established on good hand-holds and traverse on these to top out on the small boulder on the right.

Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish.

Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura.

Surprisingly fun, to the left of Nightcrawler. Sit-start on the lowest handholds; hard first couple of moves to get stood up, then easy up to the top.

Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.)

Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse.

Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts.

Nice warmup for the other two, with an interesting topout. Sit-start on the obvious hold on the right of the boulder, going to another good hold with quite a big move, then up again. Keep your nerve for the topout, the holds are there. Spotter should jump on top of the boulderer if they fall to avoid tumbling down the rock behind!

Starts crouched. Straight up the face on good holds, just don't look down at the top to avoid fantaing your trousers.

Start on the slab on the left. Go up and right.

Start on small crimps in the mdidle of the face. Up and right to finish.

Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top.

Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there.

Stack pads to start on the only jug you could possibly reach then climb left out of the roof on an incredible crack line. Really Fun and unique climb.

Start matched on the decent rail on the far right of the boulder. Couple powerful first moves up to the lip, then use holds a bit further right for a tricky mantle. Short but esthetic line.

The firs ascent was done onsight, no crash pads, no shoes, no chalk, no warmup. A true spur of the moment ascent. Climb straight up from a sharp rail by way of one big move and a series of smaller holds lead to the topout.

Interesting problem with potential for varying jams and holds. Low sit start to establish, avoiding the boulder to left for whole problem, otherwise quality and difficulty is massively compromised.

Crouch start with both hands in the big crack, on the left. Go straight up from there, avoiding Weakness Protection Programme which is further right.

To the right of Croissant. Sit-start matched on a low small crimp. Hard first move from here up to a decent flat hold, then up to better more incut holds directly above. Stay right of Croissant and its holds the whole way.

Stand-start matched on the lowest good hold, directly underneath the separate rock on top of the boulder. One or two moves to set up then dyno to the top of the boulder under the rock. Use rock on top to top out.

Sit-start under the overhanging arete right of the very small fig tree starting to grow from the rock. Start with one hand next to the tree on a big hold (be gentle) and other on another jug to the right. Big move up to the lip, then easier climbing to finish up and left.

Harder than it looks and a bit awkward. sit-start matched on the obvious big block left of the arete, then up to another obvious ledge above, then big move to top.

Same start as for Tempered Steel, but finish up and left through the initial overhand, aiming for big chickenheads. Pretty high.

Crouch start in the overhang matched in a good slot in the crack, climb out right and up the right side of the face. Once you pass the two big holes in the face (great jugs) you are commited. This is a pretty scary but all around amazing climb. Avoid using the right arete until at the top, although this can be a nice bailout lower down. Getting off the boulder can be tricky!

Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang.

Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top.

Start on the same holds as For Every King a Crown, but then go left and up with big side-pulls and cool body positions.

Line up the arete. Start matched on the lowest good holds, move up to the next set of good holds and jump for the top!

An instant classic heading diagonally left up the clean face to final sloppery sequence at the top. Start matched at the break in the horizontal crack rail.

Start from the Sarcophagus chalk mark, and move almost directly up. It gets easier, but a lot headier near the top. You can relax once you've finished! Could be considered E3 5c, but there's no gear worth speaking of. Come down off the tree to the right.

Sit-start on the right of the boulder, with hands matched in the good low horizontal crack. Powerful moves to reach the arete and top out.

To the right of Crème Brûlée. Sit-start on lowest holds. First move is hardest, straight up to the finishing jugs. Short but sweet.

Highball. Up the diagonal crack splitting the boulder. Stand-start at the base of the crack, then move up it, breaking out left onto jugs towards the top.

Sit-start on the far left of the boulder where the shallow crack ends. Start with hands in the crack - hard first couple of moves to get stood up, straight up from there. Climb always stays left of holds of 21 seconds.

Sit-start in the concave section of the boulder, with right hand on a good incut side-pull and left hand on the left arete. Work your up out and up the boulder, avoiding the rock to the right of the crack once out of the cave.

Sit-start with right hand on the undercling next to the corner and left hand out compressing on the arete at about the same height (same start as Marco). Instead of going left as for Marco, go right through some fun moves onto the prow, finishing up this.

Highball. Start as for Warm-high-uup, but branch out right onto slightly harder ground after the first few moves, via a crimp and slanting hold in the black section of rock.

Stand-start on two small crimps a few metres to the right of Warm high up. Work your way up on small but decent crimps and feet to join the middle holds on I'm warm, can I come down now, and finish as for that climb.

A bit of an eliminate but very nice moves. Sit-start on a low rail at the base of the arete on the left of the boulder. Hard first move up to a right crimp, before crossing going up and left and then crossing to a good hold above that. Easier to finish. Stay on the arete and avoid the holds to the right of the diagonal crack, on Stripe.

Stand-start with both hands just either side of the v-shaped block in the middle of the right side of the boulder. Couple of tricky moves to get up to the lip and then mantle. Short but sweet.

Very aesthetic line. Sit-start matched low on the left-hand arete. Work your way up the arete until you reach the big white jugs at the top and top out. Tricky start and need to stay calm and efficient for the top.

Stand-start on a good white hold as far right as the bush allows. Heel hook and work your way across to the big jugs in the middle.

Sit-start in the big crack on the left of the boulder. Follow the arete round to the right, topping out to the left of Chainsaw. Ledge underneath is off - best rock on the boulder and high-quality moves.

Sit-start to the right of Teeth, with hand matched in low crack. Hard first move up to jug on the arete, then jugs up this to top.

Stand-start with right hand where your left hand was for left hand squeeze and right hand on crimp to the right. Straight up via holds on the lip to top-out above.

#SD

Up the middle of the boulder, just right of Meowth. Stand-start on two slopey crimps around head height. Up to a decent right hand crimp then to the lip. Take care using the big flakes to the right for the top-out.

Sit-start on the right of boulder, with hands on crimps in the horizontal rail. Go up and right to another crimp then better holds above to top out. Boulder below is off.

Sit-start just left of the small boulder in the middle of the overhang, on two decent crimps. Pup up to the lip, then traverse right until you can mantle.

Suprisingly difficult. Sit-start on left hand-side of the face, on decent holds. Aim for the big pinch above you - getting there is trickier than it looks!

Stand-start on a good left hand at the lip of the overhang and a higher, smaller right hand. Get stood on a high foot and then snap to a jug. Easy finish. Short but cool moves - potential there for much harder lower starts.

Sit-start, then keep tension to move up the face, avoiding the arete, towards the right. Ikoko is another Kamba word for leopard.

Highball. Go up as for Donatello, but instead of exiting right go straight up over the overhang. Maybe hard to reach the crucial crimp on the overhang easily if you're not tall!

Start low and compress your way up to the top. Watch out for the landing, especially now the ground has fallen away further.

#SD #crimpy

Stand-start on the arete on the right, with right hand on a big blocky hold and right foot heek hooking next to it. Big move up, get on your feet and easier topout.

Up the middle of the boulder on small, sharp crimps. Finish straight up.

Sit-start. Hard first move, rest is simple.

Last problem to the right, on poorer holds. Hard first move to get feet up, then easier.

Lower and more powerful start to High as a Kite. Start matched on the same rail as for Jetpack and move up and left.

Sit start with both hands matched on a low rail then pull your way rightwards and then up on a series of small crimps and sidepulls. Old school!

Stand-start with feet low under the overhang and hands on lowest crimps you can hold. Get feet higher, tense everything and pull over the overhang and up to finish.

A semi-powerful problem up the orange section on the right hand side of the boulder. Start matched on lowest, small crack rail

Sit-start matched on the lowest good hold at the bottom of the arrête and power up using both sides of the arete.

Start on same big undercling/sidepull as for Aplats magnifiques but go out right and work your way up to a slightly harder topout.

Stand-start with hands on the mantleshelf; mantle up leftwards by any means necessary.

Stand start with hands on the mantleshelf slightly right of Mantleorian. Mantle up rightwards by any means necessary. First ascentionist used his shin, not recommended.

Highball. Start on the same holds as Commander of the Armies of the North, but go straight up from there on crimps. Once almost at the top go right on OK holds for an easier top-out.

Find the overhanging cave to the right of the Crumble boulder. Stand-start in good holds in the horizontal crack. Find your feet and mantle over the top with a marginal crimp to find the second crack at the top. Look for the cave paintings in the right side of the cave!

The large crack turns into an overhanging hand crack that ends at two bolts.

Start at groove at the left end of the white wall, capped by obvious stepped overhang. Climb groove direct and make a step left below roof onto the wall above. Make difficult moves up wall above then move left into corner. Climb the corner until an escape left onto the arête is possible. Thread lower off.