Routen in Melanesia für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Start off the ledge and up Lean Streak for two bolts then traverse right along the rail to clip bolt. Be careful this is runout and could be a ledge fall. Can supplement with a trad piece if you want. Then up the arete to the last hard moves. Take a long panic if you want for the bolt up high. She's also a touch runout. Great position

Awesome features and rock. 22-23?

Punchy moves, on your right as you are coming down the gully & around to the right of the slab if you are facing it. Slightly overhung and consistent climbing.

Can be climbed quite technically using tiny holds but there are a few options. Maybe 22, maybe 23.

G to 1st lower offs on ledge

Big awesome moves on amazing orange rock.

Vertical orange rock. A few big moves.

Climb starting off the ledge left of the corner. Fun wandering climb. Shares the same last 3m of climbing with KOS.

Up the arete to the right of the corner, then into the corner after the cave. This climb wanders and has some blind holds. Fun adventurous climbing.

Fun adventure with lots of varied moves. Nice and airy near the top with some delicate moves. If Damo calls it 23 then it’s 23.

Funky and a bit exciting at the last bolt before the anchors.

Possibly a little contrived to stay out of the corner, but fun either way. Top head wall is awesome.

Wandery and adventurous climbing up through some varied and crazy conglomerate rock bands.

Easy jugging quickly leads to increasingly sustained technical climbing with little rest.

The flagship 'long' route on the gully mini-wall, full of superb orange rock, good fun holds, good rests and a stiff double crux.

Some interesting and varied climbing, but a bit contrived in the middle.

Up the nice orange rock into the cave. Punch out the steep roof and clip the crux bolt, from here you can either pike right off to the rock platform (easy, 21?), or wrestle the hanging rounded arete as a boulder problem (recommended method, 23?), or possibly even go direct up the left of the arete (not yet tested. 24+?). Up to ledge then tricky top wall arete to anchors.

Sandstone disguised as water polished granite. Highly unique climbing!

Nice trad test peice at the grade. low crux then sustained easier climbing all the way to the anchors.

Huge ramp, potentially the best pure slab climb in the South Pacific, not that there's much competition... Only route that tops out and bolted as such that crux's can be aided, roughly 18 M1. Delicate moves on low angle mingers and pockets. Move belay 3m left to the rap chains when topping out.

10m L of BI. Step up and R onto the lower slab and across to the wall. Direct up the wall past the R end of the small roof/overlap.

This is the far R route on this wall. Climb the short wall and then the technical sloping arete to a final tricky move to the anchors. 5FHs, DRBB

1. 30m Start as for the ASSC. Follow this for the 1st 3 FH before stepping L and following the easier line to the L to the ledge below the roof. Pull over the roof then follow the lip L a few metres before pulling over it and up around the arete to a DBB belay.

2. 10m Short traverse off L to a DBB on the ledge.

3. 15m Up the short steep wall to the DBB below Quaceros on the main wall

A long and varied excursion. Start 2m R of TASSC. Some trick slab climbing leads to the sloping ledge. A steep pull through the roof brings you into the corner. Up this step R around the corner making a tricky move onto the wall. Follow the line of big holds up diagonally L on the wall that is steeper than it looks.

Start as for LIC. Follow this past 2FH before stepping R and up the slab to the ledge below the roof. Out the roof and up the headwall L of the wide crack to the DBB lower off. 11 FHs CB

The furthest L route on the main wall, past the boulder where Quaceros starts. Squueze through behind the boulder - fun crux moves over the mini roof to the arete. Start as for DGITWH. Follow this for a few bolt then straight up the wall and over the roof to DBB lower off.

At the far L end of the Balcony main wall is a crack behind a boulder (that Quacaeros starts off). Squeeze behing this and walk L about 10m to the base of the arete. Up the face onto the arete and up to the R end of the roofs. Through this and up the face

The Balcony version of Kachoong, far better than it looks, with a rather committing climax. A fun route with a bit of face, jugs and a roof with a tricky lip move. Awesome jugs to finish. 12RBs, DRBB.

Doesn’t look much but it adds up. Fun traversing that has a lot more up than is expected. The obvious large diagonal starting from 8m R of ACP. Up the diagonal staying with your hands in the higher diagonal to join IB through the roof and to the top. 14bolts, DRBB

Read the description carefully for this link up. Start as for Tamad Shud. Follow TS onto the flake to its 5th bolt (2nd glue in) Make a move up diagonally R to the arete and into TNM. Follow this up the ramp to the base of the green steek. Up the green streak past 4RBs to a DRBB loweroff.

Amazing. Consistently steep and pump climbing all the way. Superb last wall. Start as for TS, up to the flake then pull up and R onto the ramp of NM. Cross NM and up the beautiful steep wall (U bolts) above on incuts and pockets. 10 bolts, DRBB.

Short and punchy. A hard boulder crux. Start about 5m R further down the grotto from BH off a boulder in the canyon with a belay bolt. Up the little flake to the under cling. A thin boulder move R and into the line of pockets will see you to the top. 5RBs, DRBB.

First line on the cliff starting just right of the tree. Stick clip first ring as the start is pretty spicy. FA by the former pro ML! Probably a sandbag...

The next line to the right, all FH's. Stick clip first bolt and pull on to crimps from the block. Traverse through cool undercling feature to sustained and exciting climbing all the way to the top. Really good.

Cheeky little technical line on the shady side of the gully opposite LR. A nice place to while away for a spell if the sun is too intense.

2m left of ML's project. Into the scoop at the bottom of the ramp then up through the bulge direct to the diagonal crack. Follow this then up into the dished wall to jugs above.