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Morocco Guide

  • Bewertungskontext: FR
  • Fotos: 51
  • Begehungen: 913
  • Aka: Maroc
  • Aka: المغرب

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Morocco

Summary:
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Saisonalität

1,571 routes in Region

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 31.859189, -6.538841

Übersicht

1.1. Rabat

1.1.1. Ben Slimane

Beschreibung

1.2. Casablanca

Summary:
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Saisonalität

41 routes in Area

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 33.222510, -7.543657

Beschreibung

some information (in French), route list on request: http://cafmaroc2011.ffcam.fr/escalade.html

1.2.1. Aïn Belmesk

Summary:

18 routes in Crag

Lat / Long: 32.683302, -7.676834

1.2.2. Gagou

Summary:

23 routes in Area

Lat / Long: 32.677862, -7.644046

Beschreibung

1.3. Marrakesh

1.4. Moyen Atlas

1.5. Haut Atlas

Summary:
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Saisonalität

684 routes in Area

Sportklettern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 31.519459, -6.931519

1.5.1. Oukaimeden

Summary:

55 routes in Crag

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 31.204592, -7.860508

Übersicht

High-altitude bouldering with skiing options in winter

Beschreibung

1.5.2. d'Aït Bougmez

Beschreibung

1.5.3. Akourbi

Summary:

Lat / Long: 31.652002, -6.378710

1.5.4. Gorges du Todgha

Summary:

411 routes in Area

Sportklettern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 31.602321, -5.584034

Beschreibung

1.5.5. Taraxa

Summary:

19 routes in Crag

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und technisches Klettern

Lat / Long: 31.649573, -5.638444

Übersicht

A beautiful secluded canyon, tucked away from the traffic and tourist that make Todra Canyon such a busy place.

Beschreibung

About 2km long and up to 6 six pitches high. The Rock quality ranges from very bad to very good. A great place for a few days of camping and trad climbing. For experienced trad climbers in limestone only.

  • Jawad (Whatsapp: +212630699258) from the Auberge Traditional will be happy to host you and organise the approach to Taraxa. He can help you finding transport, donkeys and buying supplies.
  • Buy your supplies in Tamtetoucht, to support the locals.
  • Be friendly to the nomads you meet along the way, accept an offer for tea and bring small gifts like food.
  • Keep the spring and camp clean! Soap and detergents in the water hurt the animals. Keep your things in the tent during the day so that nomads can bring their animals to drink at the spring undisturbed.
  • Don’t put bolts in existing lines and don’t cross existing climbs.
  • Make sure to leave Jawad a topo of your first ascent.

Einschränkungen

make sure to contact Jawad before heading to the canyon. It's good if somebody from Tamtettouchte knows you are there.

Zustieg

At the dam's construction site, about two km south of Tamtettouchte, follow the wadi that leads to Taraxa. The canyon is about 2h walking time from the road.

Übernachtung

You will need to bring your own tent. Jawad can rent you one. Do not stay immediately near the well, as it will disturb the nomads.

Ethik

There's enough rock for everybody and all styles. In other words: do what you want, but don't put bolts in existing trad lines.

Geschichte

The climbing potential was discovered by Jawad, the owner of L'Auberge Traditionel of the nearby village Tamtattouchte. 2017: The first three lines are put up by Jonathan Isbecque and Rose Gallant. 2018: The next two lines are first ascended by Alfonso Usobiaga, Abdul Fadili and Luca De Giorgi 2019: 14 more lines are opened by Alfonso Usobiaga, Luca De Giorgi, Ben O'Neill, Gabriel Rossi, Katrina Robles, Peter Warasin and Armin Schwitzer.

1.5.6. Gorges du Taghia

Summary:

36 routes in Area

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 31.776189, -6.070557

Beschreibung

1.5.7. Toubkal area

Übersicht

Mainly known for the popular Jebel Toubkal, a trekking summit, the area allegedly also hosts some alpine winter climbs.

Beschreibung

The Spanish map hanging in Refuge Mouflon suggests some climbing on the summits surrounding the hut (Tadat, Biiguinnoussene, Clochetons, Tadaft, Toubkal Ouest/ South face).

Einschränkungen

A guide is required when accessing from Imlil.

Zustieg

Usual start point is Imlil. You are required to hire a guide (350 - 500 Dhm / day). Three checkpoints and the refuge check that you are going with a guide. Apart from cleverly blending into the hordes, the checkpoints are hard if impossible to bypass. Hike up the valley along the heavily frequented path till the refuge.

Übernachtung

There a two refuges at the end of the valley: Refuge Toubkal Louis Neltner du CAF and Refuge Mouflon. The former is cheaper, the latter offers more space and more modern. Camping is allowed for a reduced fee close to the refuges.

1.5.8. Oued El Abid

Summary:

23 routes in Area

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 32.049012, -6.681824

1.5.9. Amellagou Les Gorges d'Imiter

Summary:

130 routes in Area

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 32.008150, -5.082011

Beschreibung

Single and Multi Pitch climbing. Topos for climbing sectors and routes are available in several accommodation in Amellagou (e.g. Auberge Amellagou).

Übernachtung

Several accommodations in Amellagou

1.6. Anti-Atlas

Summary:
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J
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Saisonalität

543 routes in Crag

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 29.584041, -8.261004

1.6.1. North side Jbel el-Kest

Summary:

393 routes in Crag

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 29.809386, -9.072030

1.6.2. South side Jbel el-Kest

Summary:

150 routes in Crag

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 29.712355, -8.989504

1.7. Chefchaouen

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 35.168915, -5.254829

Beschreibung

I havent tried them but I found at least two bolted routes in the the middel of Chefchaouen during my one week stay there.

1.7.1. Ras El Ma

Summary:

3 routes in Cliff

Beschreibung

This is a small crag just before the mosqué of Ras El Ma. .

Zustieg

10 min walk from the main square. Just walk up tp the small fall.

Geschichte

There is few trad line that have been done before woth gear amd pytons (some are atill there. There is also fews sport route and mixtes

1.8. Caiat

Summary:
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F
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Saisonalität

290 routes in Crag

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 35.269378, -5.218581

1.8.1. Association Caiat

Summary:

7 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.2. Tugas

Summary:

7 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.3. Puerta

Summary:

13 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.4. Maroko

Summary:

7 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.5. Mohammed 6

Summary:

6 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.6. Ceskoslovensko

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.7. Rakev

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.8. Petrolo Maroko

Summary:

7 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.9. Panabdul

Summary:

6 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.10. Pueblo

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.11. La roche aux korbaks

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.12. El Capitan

Summary:

2 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.13. Viento

Summary:

1 route in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.14. Pachamama

Summary:

5 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.15. Warha mon ami

Summary:

6 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.16. Isma safia

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.17. Kozy

Summary:

14 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.18. Aiguille de l'infini

Summary:

5 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.19. Gaza

Summary:

11 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.20. Srdce

Summary:

10 routes in Sector

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

1.8.21. Bunker

Summary:

8 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.22. Pivovar

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.23. Kefi shop

Summary:

10 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.24. Eskerrik asko

Summary:

5 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.25. Borg

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

1.8.26. Punk

Summary:

2 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.27. Secuestro mental

Summary:

2 routes in Sector

Alle traditionelles Klettern

1.8.28. Chaat Seger

Summary:

6 routes in Sector

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

1.8.29. Caiat

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern

1.8.30. Eperon Kert

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.31. La Rueda

Summary:

7 routes in Sector

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

1.8.32. Baraka

Summary:

6 routes in Sector

traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern

1.8.33. Paraguas

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

1.8.34. Triangel

Summary:

17 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.35. Pinchos

Summary:

35 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.36. Most

Summary:

10 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.37. Cafe Rueda

Summary:

11 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.8.38. Ratas

Summary:

28 routes in Sector

Alle Sportklettern

1.9. Ait Saoun

Summary:

10 routes in Crag

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 30.726674, -6.659300

Übersicht

Ait Saoun

Beschreibung

Trad climbing single and multi pitch on volcanic rock.

Einschränkungen

Parking is located near a small plantation beside the river. So far there are no issues parking there.

Zustieg

From Ouarzazate follow the N9 for appr. 40km towards Ait Saoun or from Ait Saoun towards Ouarzazate appr. 2.5km. Parking next to a river (GPS30.73334, -6.65540)

Übernachtung

Camping possibilities in Agdz and Ouarzazate.

1.9.1. Upper Crag Ait Saoun

Summary:

Lat / Long: 30.727978, -6.653254

Beschreibung

Trad single pitch climbing on volcanic rock. Route height 30 to 40m. Sector left of the rock cleft exposure N and sector right of the rock cleft exposure NW.

Zustieg

From the parking place (GPS30.73334, -6.65540) head up to the main wall. From there follow the wall southeast until reaching its plateau. Now on the plateau back to the Upper Crag (GPS30.72821, -6.65319). The Upper Crag is visible from the parking area above the main wall and will help you to find the correct place.

Abstieg

Walk down. Use the rock cleft in the center of the crag.

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