Einträge in Mapoutahi

Angular basalt climbing 100m from the beach

The wall immediately left of Gump's But-tock. For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XNn5FY4HP5zojWpJGRntFrTM4amAABBM/view?usp=sharing

Up the groove in the detached boulder and on to a big ledge. Cross over to the wall and follow the groove up onto the top of a pillar. Up the black wall to an undercling then rightwards up a thin ramp to some excellent holds over the bulge. Cruxy move up onto the slab finish.

Scramble up leftwards along the edge of the cliffline to the highest point of the track. Direct up the centre of the wall. Sustained climbing on perfect rock with just a few spots for a quick shake out. Powerful and delicate.

Up the centre of the weakness on superb rock. The crux comes at mid height moving right around the hanging pillar.

First bolt shared with 'What a Way to Spend Easter', before traversing rightwards along the ledge. Up the white pillar on positive edges and reach high for a side pull on the right. Traverse left two metres to gain the incipient groove and blast straight up the wall on layaways, crimps and pockets before drifting leftwards to the WaWtSE belay. A sport climber's dream.

The bottom section of this climb is currently not in good condition - however the summer will hopefully dry it up. Car Crash takes you on a journey up and over the cemented blocks of lava flow and into the groove above. Take care with the odd loose hold in the mid section. Up the groove, move across left and prepare yourself for a cruxy finale!

The bottom section currently isn't very pleasant however this summer will hopefully dry it up.

Same situation as the start of RD. Great crux on the vertical wall near the top.

The hard moves are right off the ground and can be aided by pulling on the first three quickdraws. Grade 18 moves follow up onto a ledge then traverse right along and over slabs. 'All Play and No work' merges here at mid height and together share the final three bolts up and over a steep bulge

Technical yet powerful boulder problem to begin (V4/5), then traverse right to the incut pocket jugs. Head straight up and mantle onto the slab, linking into All Play, no Work.

As of 2023, this route is dirty and needs a good clean. From the last bolt on the bottom face and up to the bolt on the slab is extremely runout. In its current state, would not recommend as a fall would result in a serious injury.

Start as for 'Treacherous Fingers' then traverse the lower face leftwards and up into a recessed groove. Continue up then left again to a dynamic finish over the bulge. Dave Brash 2016

To the immediate right of Porcine Posterior. Multiple crux moves. Anchor is separate from Porcine Posterior, roughly 2m higher & 3-4m to the right of PP's crack.

The overhanging, orange coloured wall named in honour of Steve Komito - ('The Jolly Cobbler of Estes Park'), - Layton Kor's usually terrified belay slave whom Layton invariably hauled up many of his crumbling masterpieces.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1m1f6B4f7VEB_nfqtruq-ZW65Ru1nTQEJ

The left most edge of 'Jolly Cobbler' wall. Starts at ground level behind the trees. Up the vertical brown wall to a big pocket then head rightwards onto a ledge for a welcome rest. Some devious moves take you to another bridging rest beneath the rooflet for a quick shakeout. A long reach out right to a hidden hold leads the way out onto the bulging headwall. Sprint for the top but be mindful to hit the two pockets above in the right sequence!

Overhanging by more than a metre throughout its length, devious and strenuous in nature, this route clocks in at around grade 23/24. Starts at ground level in the righthand corner behind the trees - pull leftwards above the lip of the overhang on solid knobs then straight up the wall to where the crackline appears. Fingerlocks, hands, fists - the stunning upper wall has it all. Superlative climbing.

Can be done as one 30m Pitch bring 14 quickdraws

Pitch 1 Grade 18

Up the track a wee way to a belay ledge carved out of the dirt. Step left into the recess in the wall with a staple in the middle of it then into the crack above. When the crack terminates, move out onto the wall of knobs where steep climbing leads to the semi-hanging belay at 15 metres.

Pitch 2 Grade 20

Launch rightwards across the wall to some powerful moves through the weakness (take a deep breath and hang in there) before moving back left onto a hanging gray slab. Get set for a stonking finish up the hanging corner. Can be climbed in one long pitch - take two or three extender slings to mitigate rope drag.

Steve Carr 2014

From TJC mid-belay, move left and up to a technical finish on high friction rock.

Prominent arête on the far left of the main wall. Weave up delicately on a thought provoking journey. Stick to the bolts on the right face of the arête, the bolts on the left will protect a few moves but be prepared for rope drag.

Straight up the imposing corner on occasional crusty rock but awesome none-the-less. A punchy crux near the top.

P1: 18 | Up the steep lower wall on excellent rock and onto the ledge. Your second may want to come up also to join in on the action - assuming you intend to carry on above.

P2: 22 | Bury your hands deep in the hollows and swing left into the tips crackline that opens to hands up higher. Onto the big ledge and tackle the headwall direct.

Retrobolted layback crack starting a few meters left of Fire walker. Pleasant face climbing gets you to a spacious ledge where the steep layback crack starts. Climbing eases off after the bulge before joining Fire Walker to finish at the shared anchor.

Starting up what was formerly 'Star Spangled Spanner' on the right hand edge of the Eldorado Wall, this route has been retro bolted on the lower section and now continues to the top of the cliff with the addition of several more bolts making it the longest route on the cliff.

The best, longest and most varied outing at this crag. A slabby start traverses right past a plethora of bolts (many can be skipped). Easy to the bridging corner, curve left through a fiery crux and cool off for the finish

Scramble up the top of the grassy ledge ledge immediately right from the start of Fire Walker (the top has been flattened off and the belay staple is in the wall behind). Head left into the groove and straight up the arete.

Same Belay Station as Bush Stream Blues, just head to the right into the smooth shoot. Continues up straight before traversing to the left. shares the anchor with BSB.

Corner behind the big detached boulder.

The L slanting groove has been retro bolted. This route heads right after the 3rd bolt of WYGTH, across the face to a golden left facing corner. Up this, trending back left on jugs to the anchors as for WYGTH. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture. Source: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunedin/otago-peninsula/mapoutahi/main-eldorado-walls/golden-showers

The original route, now retro bolted. Start up groove and head right as for GS, but continue right at corner and climb arête to same anchors as GW2.

The crimpy and powerful face behind the detached boulder. Indulge in gastons and sidepulls to an easy finish

Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt...Control 'has been recently retrobolted. The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar. Source: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunedin/otago-peninsula/mapoutahi/main-eldorado-walls/control The 4 bolt start up the face seems about grade 25.

From the high point between pinnacle and main wall climb flake trending right into left lending groove. Follow this up and step left onto arête to DBB

Up the golden slab. Crimp your way to glory up the steepening wall!

Follow right slanting flake into left facing slightly overhanging corner. Originally only 7m and grade 14, it has been bolted to the top of the cliff

Starts up left slanting thin crack just where cliff drops lower. Climb into wedged boulders, then over bulge on bolts and up steep arête to same anchors as HHNF. Was originally shorter and grade 15.

Route does not exist. New route is Bronco

Retrobolted after the Death Block fell out then led by Sam. Crimp your way up the wall onto the slab and finish in the corner.

Start from either far left, or middle left. finishing at same anchor. Takes away the powerful start.

Up steep left facing corner on black rock, then continue up easier corner above. Head right to anchors

straight up the steep wall.

Direct up the wall right of 'Epilogue.' Requires technical, crimpy moves up steep initial and overhanging final stretches. Full rest in the middle. Avoid the temptation to use the off-route holds on Epilogue on the left. Tony Burnell visiting from Christchurch asked why there was a gap between Epilogue and Eject-o-Flap. This inspired the route.

Steep start through breccia, and again through second roof. Continue to anchors of WBBB for rope to pull

Up the flakey groove then out left onto the face. Steeply up the line on good holds to some strenuous moves over the bulge.

Up the jugs on the point then traverse left to a stance. Great crux sequence above on excellent stone. Generally requires a wide span to latch the right edge of the wall but has been climbed direct on crimpers.

Interesting, well protected - do it. Starting from the ferny rock at the front RH corner of the Stronghold, traverse L along the sloping ledge and clip 2 bolts before swinging out onto the solid slab above. - climbnz.org.nz