The Circus Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Troy Kendall Eugene Yeo Juan-Pierre Cronje

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. The Circus 9 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. The Circus 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Saisonalität

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -45.747131, 170.641053

Beschreibung

At the right hand end of Avian Wall there is a huge overhang. The Circus begins right of the overhang and is bounded by more overhangs further to the right. Access is up stainless glued in pegs and runners to a fixed chain. A short length of steel ladder helps facilitate quick access to the belay. A belay seat is attached to the chain for a comfortable belay. The higher routes require two ropes for the abseil or alternativelty, two abseils to the ground.. The wall is deceptively overhanging so cleaning may be difficult if the second doesn't follow the route. A second via ferrata further right opens up a cluster of additional routes on excellent quality rock.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Trapeze Up the via ferrata to the far left hand end. Up left into the corner. A quality line that deserves a good clean. A 60 metre rope will just reach the ground. Erstbegehung: Murray Judge	17	Sport 35m, 9
2	★★ Tiger by the Tail From the fixed belay seat, move left along the chain and up into the layback corner. Onto a big ledge then up a second layback corner. The two stars are reserved for the first pitch only. Erstbegehung: Murray Judge	20	Sport 2, 8
3	★ Show Time Erstbegehung: Steve Carr	20	Sport 8
4	★★ Book of Life Erstbegehung: Dave Brash	17	Gemischt trad 30m, 1
5	★★★ Wall of Death Erstbegehung: Steve Carr	24	Sport 14
6	★★★ Ticket Office Erstbegehung: Steve Carr	20	Sport 6
7	★★★ The Freak Show Ascend the right hand via ferrata to a chain belay in a corner. Left off the belay and up into a V-groove. Straight up the arete above. Great rock and moves all the way to the ring under the roof above. Erstbegehung: Steve Carr, 2023	23	Sport 25m, 6
8	★★★ Circus Maximus Head rightwards under the roof for 3 metres until the vertical crack appears. Technical moves over the bulge to a hand jamb then follow the crack all the way to the belay under the roof. Taping the right hand or using a jamming glove is recommended for some obligatory hand jambs. Absolute quality line on aesthetic rock. Erstbegehung: Steve Carr, 2022	24	Sport 6
9	★★ The Salesman From the chains at the base of the corner, traverse under the roofline as for The Acrobat but continue rightwards onto the brown wall, staying low to pick up a good pocket. Now head directly up to the roof above, making a cruxy move into the hanging corner. Time for a rest here before heading right and around into the next corner. Bridge across and up to a small belay ledge for two. Excellent quality rock and moves. Generally following easterly showers or in humid conditions, the rock turns black and stays damp for a few days. P1: From the chains at the top of the via ferrata, traverse under the roofline as for The Acrobat but continue rightwards onto the brown wall, staying low to pick up a good pocket. Now head directly up to the roof above, making a cruxy move into the hanging corner. Time for a rest before heading right and around into the next corner. Bridge across and up to a small belay ledge for two. Excellent quality rock and moves. Generally following easterly showers or in humid conditions, the rock turns black and sweats. It can stay damp for a few days until sunny weather arrives and dries it out again. P2: Straight up from the belay then move across the sandy ramp and onto the grey rock again. Up into the crack and layback the corner to and insane heel hook to get over the bulge on pocketed rock. Erste freie Begeh.: Sam Bosshard & Steve Carr, 2022 Erste freie Begeh.: Eugene Yeo & Anya Bukholt-Payne, 2023	21	Sport 2

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
17	★★	Book of Life	Gemischt trad 30m, 1
		Trapeze	Sport 35m, 9
20	★	Show Time	Sport 8
	★★★	Ticket Office	Sport 6
	★★	Tiger by the Tail	Sport 2, 8
21	★★	The Salesman	Sport 2
23	★★★	The Freak Show	Sport 25m, 6
24	★★★	Circus Maximus	Sport 6
	★★★	Wall of Death	Sport 14