Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
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V8 | |||||||||
V8 | ★★ Straight out | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 28. Feb 2023 | |||||
29 | |||||||||
25 ~25 |
vorgeklippt
Knieprotektor
★★★ Megalomania P1
— 2 Versuche
- mit
gsmizz
| 30m | Mount Owen | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 6. Dez 2022 | ||||
Did the first pitch only, amazing climb potentially worth the walk in just to get some tufa action in NZ!
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25 |
★★★ Megalomania P1
— 2 Versuche | 50m | Mount Owen | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 27. Jan 2024 | ||||
Only climbed Micromania (first pitch)
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25 |
★★★ Megalomania P1
— 2 Versuche | 50m | Mount Owen | Sa 27. Jan 2024 | |||||
Such a beautiful climb!
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28 | |||||||||
28 | ★★★ Dancing On A Skewer | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 3. Jun 2019 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Dancing On A Skewer | Paynes Ford | Mi 15. Jan 2020 | ||||||
The large jug with vegetation growing out of it up and to the right of the third clip is not part of the climb - not in the Rock Deluxe guidebook but a useful piece of information for anyone wanting to send this route
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28 | ★★★ Dancing On A Skewer | Paynes Ford | Mo 13. Feb 2023 | ||||||
28 | ★★ Fauvism | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 13. Feb 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★ Fauvism | Paynes Ford | Do 25. Jan 2024 | ||||||
27 | |||||||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | ★ Gut | Mo 1. Jul 2002 | |||||
27 | ★★ Electrocution | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | So 1. Jun 2003 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 4. Dez 2007 | |||||
The draws were on so tried the moves..and actually did them! May have gotten some linkage next go but too many other climbs to try.
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28 27 | ★★ Papageno | 15m, 4 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 1. Jun 2002 | ||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | So 13. Jan 2008 | ||||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Mo 14. Jan 2008 | ||||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★ Gut | Mo 26. Nov 2007 | |||||
26 if someone leaves tick marks on it
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 3. Dez 2017 | ||||
Does is get better than this?? Happy to work out all the moves, will have to come back with more skin and colder temps to get this.
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27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Do 7. Dez 2017 | ||||
Got through to the last crux before falling. Feels very doable but needs better conditions.
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27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 6. Jan 2018 | ||||
Two near misses
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | Sa 19. Jan 2019 | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Pousse Ton Froc | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 26. Jan 2011 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 1. Jan 2020 | |||||
Fell off the second crux waaay too many times. I'll have to come back for this one. Hopefully the holds are not too glassy by then.
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27 | ★★ Cloudwalker | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 11. Jan 2020 | |||||
Rad movements on this climb on varied holds. Very bouldery. IMO some of the funnest moves at paynes, however not suited to shorter climbers. Rock quality is pretty good due to low traffic, so get in there before this sick route becomes polished like creative confusion.
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 12. Feb 2020 | |||||
Fun route with some cool moves on nice holds once you've charged through the polished bullshit down lower. Possibly a bit soft for the grade but shhhh
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27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | Sa 23. Mai 2020 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion - mit Tom | Paynes Ford | Fr 16. Okt 2020 | ||||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 5. Jan 2021 | |||||
really enjoyable moves, need more power endurance
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 8. Jan 2021 | |||||
24th(?) go? What a battle! stoked
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 30. Dez 2020 | |||||
Second go
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27 | ★★ Electrocution | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Do 31. Dez 2020 | |||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 3. Mär 2021 | |||||
Was hoping someone in the know would be able to shed some light on the BETA here. To me there seem to be 2 very easily accessible detached blocks, the lower that runs out at the second clip and the higher block that joins up to clip 4 and Carnage at the Crossroads. Could some kind soul let me know which, if any, of these blocks are 'in'.
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 5. Mär 2021 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 2. Jan 2021 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | Do 9. Apr 2015 | |||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon — 4 Versuche - mit Ryan Yang, Sam Turner | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 2. Jan 2023 | |||||
27 | ★★ Papageno — 2 Versuche - mit Ryan Yang, VillaBot, Nick Morrow | 15m, 4 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 3. Jan 2023 | ||||
27 | FA Claim-Jumper | 27m, 13 | Mount Owen | Mi 22. Mär 2017 | |||||
FA
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27 | FA Runaway Train | 35m, 15 | Mount Owen | Do 7. Jun 2018 | |||||
Hard to work. Easy to send under perfect conditions. Low in the grade compared to Claim Jumper?
FA |
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27 | ★ There Is No Spoon - mit Kyle Johnson, Megan Ellis | Paynes Ford | Di 14. Mär 2023 | ||||||
I'm not sure if it's possible to hold any of the crimps on this climb. Was kinda fun to try though haha
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27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Fr 24. Feb 2023 | ||||||
Had a go after Jess, crimps were a bit much for me, few of the moves seemed impossible
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion — 3 Versuche | Paynes Ford | So 31. Mär 2024 | ||||||
Got it all worked out, but proved to be a bit too juiced for the send. One to come back for!
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 7. Jan 2022 | |||||
23 |
★★ Cauli-Olli
— 2 Versuche | 55m, 23 | Mount Owen | Sa 27. Jan 2024 | |||||
26 | |||||||||
26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | Sa 24. Okt 2015 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ African Head Charge | Paynes Ford | Di 17. Jan 2017 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | So 23. Feb 2014 | |||||
Thanks Mike for pointing out the rest to me.
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension (Snatchimated Suspension) | Pōhara | Mo 19. Dez 2016 | ||||||
Starts with a bit of power and then turns to stamina making it my new preferred variant on the Why Wall.
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension | Pōhara | Fr 18. Nov 2016 | ||||||
Definitely size dependent: crimps for the tall ones down low, long moves for the shorties up high. Felt a notch easier than Snatch for me (which puts it on par with Why Not).
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26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Sa 19. Jan 2019 | |||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Sa 23. Feb 2019 | |||||
26 | ★★ Procrastination | 25m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 31. Dez 2020 | ||||
26 | ★★ Procrastination | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 2. Jan 2021 | |||||
whipped off first clip many times and have lots of bruises on my bum great line
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26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Mo 28. Dez 2020 | |||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 21. Jan 2022 | ||||
Okay, so this is my 5th day on and I expected to not really be able to do much on this today but wanted to have a go as the draws were up and Dom went for redpoint burn. I guess it suits me because I dogged up pretty readily despite having extremely little stamina today! ❤
Quite interesting to me that the two powerful 💪🏼 moves in the crux sequence (2nd to 4th bolt 🔩) were fairly trivial to me once I found the correct feet (and used a sloper bump for the first power move cuz of my size) 🔥 So power not much affected by no rest days, but endurance is in the can as I was chickenwinging 🐔 to the anchor after the crux even though it's only 22ish climbing 😂 |
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26 | ★★★ The Beast Within - mit Alexei Drummond | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 21. Jan 2022 | ||||
Injured, so decided to clean off the gear. Actually did climb all the moves but grabbed draws to clip; injury doesn't help my headgame, it turns out!
Weirdly, the conditions were nice and grippy today despite the route being in full sun while I was going up (as opposed to spoogey as heck yesterday when it was cloudy! Humidity, I guess. It was raining all day in the hills today, so weird!) |
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26 | ★★ The Kool-aid grand traverse | 30m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 31. Dez 2021 | ||||
26 | ★ Sunday Picnic | 15m, 5 | Paynes Ford | ★ Gut | So 17. Apr 2022 | ||||
26 | ★ Sunday Picnic | 15m, 5 | Paynes Ford | ★ Gut | So 17. Apr 2022 | ||||
Minging holds at the crux and dirty, but worth a lap.
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27 26 | ★★★ Why Not? - mit Jordan Widodo | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Klassiker | So 5. Jun 2022 | ||||
Sent on my 5th attempt maybe 27 ?
compared to the 26s I've sent this feels harder.
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26 | ★★★ Why Not? — 2 Versuche - mit Ryan Yang, VillaBot | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 4. Jan 2023 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Why Not? — 3 Versuche | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 4. Jan 2023 | ||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within — 3 Versuche | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 4. Jan 2023 | ||||
Managed to channel some beast from within on the last day at Paynes and 10th straight day on climbing.
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26 | Cosmic Girl | 22m, 6 | Mount Owen | So 5. Feb 2017 | |||||
Cruised (placing draws). Came very close to blowing it at the top. Jochen talked me off the ledge. ;-)
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26 | FA After The Gold Rush | 70m, 33 | Mount Owen | So 26. Mai 2019 | |||||
FA
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26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | Sa 24. Okt 2015 | ||||||
2nd Go
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26 | ★★★ African Head Charge | Paynes Ford | Di 17. Jan 2017 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | So 23. Feb 2014 | |||||
Thanks Mike for pointing out the rest to me.
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26 | ★ Sunday Picnic | 15m, 5 | Paynes Ford | Sa 26. Nov 2016 | |||||
Cop-out version (went right).
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26 | ★★★ Why Not? | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | Mo 17. Aug 2015 | |||||
26 | ★★ Animated Suspension (Snatchimated Suspension) | Pōhara | Mo 19. Dez 2016 | ||||||
Starts with a bit of power and then turns to stamina making it my new preferred variant on the Why Wall.
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension | Pōhara | Fr 18. Nov 2016 | ||||||
Definitely size dependent: crimps for the tall ones down low, long moves for the shorties up high. Felt a notch easier than Snatch for me (which puts it on par with Why Not).
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26 ~23 | ★★ The Kool-aid grand traverse | 30m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 9. Feb 2023 | ||||
26 | vorgeklippt ★★★ The Beast Within — 2 Versuche | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 8. Apr 2023 | ||||
Quite chuffed to put this one away second go. Awesome and sustained, but felt a touch easier than the 25s on Globe Wall.
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26 | ★★ The Kool-aid grand traverse - mit Carter Hewson, Finn Brown, Sam Beattie | 30m | Paynes Ford | Mo 27. Nov 2023 | |||||
Made it just over halfway, sick climb
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension — 2 Versuche | Pōhara | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 2. Jan 2024 | |||||
Went down without drama second go. A lot easier when you know where the holds are.
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26 | ★★★ Why Not? — 3 Versuche | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 5. Jan 2024 | ||||
About 2 moves away from onsighting, then second go climbed like a gumby. Third time was the charm, good fun!
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26 | ★ Fish And Chips | Paynes Ford | Fr 26. Jan 2024 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Fr 2. Feb 2024 | |||||
26 | ★ Berlin Wall | Paynes Ford | ★ Gut | So 31. Mär 2024 | |||||
Utterly minging! Might be possible with a local anaesthetic to numb the pain in the fingers.
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26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 18. Apr 2024 | |||||
26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 27. Apr 2024 | |||||
26 | ★★ Procrastination | Paynes Ford | ★ Gut | Do 21. Mär 2024 | |||||
top section feels very hard at present
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V5/6 | |||||||||
V5 V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | So 17. Apr 2022 | ||||
Didn’t pull the lip so can’t claim the send, but climbing out the roof barefoot then dropping into the river is a must do experience.
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test — 3 Versuche - mit gsmizz, Nakkers | 4m | Paynes Ford | So 4. Dez 2022 | |||||
Tried going left and right, still unsure what the actual line is, can make it out to the edge but haven't slapped for the lip yet, toe crimping is good!
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V5/6 ~V6 | ★★★ The Acid Test — 2 Versuche | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 9. Feb 2023 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - mit jake | 4m | Paynes Ford | Sa 11. Mär 2023 | |||||
Looked so cool so we gave it a go (or 2). Awesome holds and made it halfway even though my toes were cramping over each other. Then I lost the way. Very fun
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - mit Carter Hewson, Finn Brown, Sam Beattie | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 27. Nov 2023 | ||||
One of a kind climbing
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | Mi 3. Jan 2024 | |||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - mit Felix Blanchard, Carter Hewson, Finn Brown | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 27. Nov 2023 | ||||
such cool climbing
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - mit Saskia Chantler | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 31. Jan 2024 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 7. Feb 2024 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | Mo 12. Feb 2024 | |||||
I got to a couple of moves away from the lip on my best attempt, but it's hard to find the correct line, I kept running out of holds. otherwise it's an incredibly fun problem
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - mit Grayson Meaclem | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Do 25. Jan 2024 | ||||
Amazing juggy handles into difficult slopy mantle to finish.
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Do 25. Jan 2024 | ||||
V5/6 leicht | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 30. Mär 2024 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 23. Dez 2023 | ||||
25 | |||||||||
25 | ★★★ Skiing Off A Convex Slope | 13m, 4 | Paynes Ford | So 13. Jan 2008 |