Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves Wasp Town | |||||
V7 | ★★ The Brian Wasp Town Massacre
Right hand on a an edge under roof and the left on a good edge. Head straight up for the groove. Erstbegehung: H Triebels, 2011 | 5m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Mangawhai Heads | |||||
V6/7 | The Seagull's Lunch
Up left face Erstbegehung: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
V6/7 | ★ Salty Sea Spray
The face just to the left of super extra gravity. Start on two opposing side pulls, the left is good. Head up to the jug in the break then to the top via a small edge and some slopers. Erstbegehung: Charlie Birch, 2023 | ||||
V7 | Skidbladnir
Up face right of middle seam Erstbegehung: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Forest Compaction Boulder | |||||
V7 | Y’all Right
Sit start from two rounded edges and move to jug via crimp. Wrestle the mantle. Erstbegehung: Angus Crowley | ||||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders Minecraft | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Minecraft
Sit start matching on the lower left cube. Traverse the blocs to the right. All features on the rock are in, including the generous pocket near the start. Top out if you feel like wrestling a mossy scramble through the tree branches, or just finish on a jug. There are many opportunities for knee bars so some knee pads can be handy. | ||||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland gesperrt Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side | |||||
28 | Down To Earth
The groove between Porkland and Maisola Party. Groundfall potential and stupid first bolt placement. Erstbegehung: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1992 | 14m, 1 | |||
28 | Plumley Walker
The arete. Painful holds, nasty plunge. Erstbegehung: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1991 | ||||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland gesperrt Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 3 | |||||
V7 | ★ McNuggett
| ||||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland gesperrt Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 7 | |||||
V7 | Plumley Walker
| ||||
V7 | Hypercaffinated
| ||||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter First Round Area Chunky Boulder | |||||
V7 | Jackass Sit Start
Sit start to Jackass Erstbegehung: Glenn Erik Johannessen, 2007 | ||||
V7 | ★ Bohemian Pilsner
SDS on boulder. Small crimps. | 3m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter Total Damage Area Sideshow Bob Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Super Sloper Rockover
Start matched on sloper reach out left to rail and finish as for established V3? | 3m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Lulu Boulder | |||||
V7 | Lulu Lads
Start matched on the arête, a dynamic kick leads to tenuous climbing up the arête. Erstbegehung: Daniel Scott, Nov 2019 | 4m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave Kings Side The garage | |||||
V7 | ★★★ General boulder3 (Logbook)
| ||||
Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay The Bluff The Upper Bluff | |||||
28 | Flogged to Death
Four bolts up to the ledge, then six more to the anchor. Quite hard to stop and clip around the second to last bolt. Erstbegehung: Daniel Krippner, Okt 2020 | 22m, 10 | |||
Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay New Wave Wall | |||||
28 | Kung Fu Panda
1
28
30m
2
23
15m
Starts with 'New Wave' and heads up past there midway anchor. In the PDF guide its marked as two pitch route (28 30m, 23 15m). Erstbegehung: David Hood & Dan Head, 23 Dez 2015 | 45m, 2 | |||
Waikato Lake Taupō Kinloch Kinloch Bouldering The Hidden Boulder | |||||
V6/7 | ★★ Humpty Dumpty
Start with 3 points on the obvious rail feature low on the overhung face, then head up and right via a series of average edges, taking care to avoid dabbing on the rock behind. Erstbegehung: Charlie Birch | ||||
Waikato Lake Taupō Kinloch Whangamata Bay (K2) | |||||
27/28 | ★★ Monologue
Three boulders in a row with one involving a mono doigt to an easier finish. Climbs tothe same anchor as Tartarus. Erstbegehung: John Palmer, 3 Dez 2020 | 25m | |||
28 | ★ Head Shot
Left of Chapel of Ghouls. Direct start, 3 bolts then into the crux. Easier climbing to the roof and through to the anchors. Watch out for rope drag in the roof, extend the roof draw if possible. Erschliesser: Dan Head Erstbegehung: Henry Booker, 22 Nov 2020 | 30m, 13 | |||
Waikato Lake Taupō Whanganui Bay The Plateau | |||||
28 | ★★★ El Topo
"One of the best routes in NZ" Erstbegehung: Roland Foster, 1984 | 25m, 4 | |||
Waikato Lake Taupō Whanganui Bay Mangakara Pacifica Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret
Head up to the first bolt before traversing left, then up the middle of the bulging wall. Finishes up the tricky short arete. Erstbegehung: John Palmer, 2013 | 25m, 9 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District gesperrt Mangaokewa Lower Lip Wall | |||||
28 | Master of My Own World
Direct start to Subterranean | 5m, 3 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District gesperrt Mangaokewa The Cheap Seats | |||||
28 | ★ Sanjuro
Erstbegehung: Ivan Vostinar, 2008 | 8m, 3 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District gesperrt Mangaokewa The Aviary | |||||
28 | Fly
Erstbegehung: Ivan Vostinar, 2010 | 2 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District The Pond Thieving POM | |||||
V7 | ★★ Thieving POM
Sit start on the break and go straight up. Erstbegehung: James Morris? | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Power of None
Right hand on positive jug, left low on arete. It's possible to bump the left hand higher, but you need a big span. Launch to the big rounded sloper or use the small crimp in the middle of the face. Finish straight up through the groove. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 26 Mär 2021 | 4m | |||
Waikato Waitomo District The Pond Fins and Pinches | |||||
V7 | ★★ Ready to Launch
Starting on the crimps, climb the center of the face or do a large dyno into the horizontal crack, finish through the runnels directly above. Erstbegehung: William | 4m | |||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Highball Wall | |||||
V7 | ★★ Golden Shower Direct
Dynamic sit start from mono to sloped rail. Finish as per 'Golden Shower'. Erstbegehung: Dave Rogers | 5m | |||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip The Greek Gods | |||||
V7 | 10. V7
| ||||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Totem Area | |||||
V6/7 | ★ Swing and a Miss Extension
Climb Swing and a Miss and continue traversing left on the low holds to finish with Trilogy. | 4m | |||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip The Wave Wall | |||||
V7 | ★ Coriolis Force
Start left of Wave of Echoes with the left on a crimp and the right on a good side pull by your head. Pinch then throw to the ledge to finish up on the cracks. Erstbegehung: Matt Lewis | ||||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Grot View Cave | |||||
V7 | More Approaching into Franks
Start deep in the cave (a.k.a. Deep start), climb the Approaching Insanity and finish with Frank's Better Half Erstbegehung: Ashkan, 17 Sep 2023 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Portable Puku
Start as for More Approaching Insanity, climb Power Puku to its finish, reverse Du Hast and finish with the Leon's Line Mantle. | 8m | |||
V7 | Perverse-alina Lite
Start as Approaching Insanity, climb the Power Puku and finish with Transverselina. This is easier version of Perverse-alina. Erstbegehung: Chris Hailey, 26 Aug 2023 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Approaching Into Frantic
Start as Approaching Insanity, continue the route on Frank's Better Half and finish as Frantic finish (i.e., jugs/cracks are eliminated). Hard 7. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Approaching Into Frankenstein
Start with Approaching Insanity and finish with Frankenstein. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ A Taste of Bile
Sit or crouch start left of Du Hast with feet on the base rock.Out to the sloping V hold, a couple of moves on Du Hast and then clench tight for some tenuous moves through the corner. Feet high will get you across left to the break and all the way along as far as the rock goes. Erstbegehung: John Newby | ||||
V7 | ★★ Deep Dirty Dancing Extension
Deep start in the cave, climb to the start of Dirty Dancing and finish as Dirty Dancing Extension Hard v7 Erstbegehung: Ashkan, 30 Aug 2023 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dirty Dancing Start - Power Puku - Reverse Du Hast - Leon's Finish
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, continue with Power Puku, reverse Du Hast to finish with the Leon's Line mantle. | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Inverselina
Start at 4 points go through power puku and finish up on Transverselina Erstbegehung: Chris Hailey, 6 Aug 2023 | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Franks Route
Start with two pinchy holds (two chalky holds in the first photo above) and throw your left heel to the top, find your way to the plate and finish via Franks Better Half. Erstbegehung: Frank Enz | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★ Frank's Route Direct - Reverse Du Hast - Frank's Better Half
Climb Frank's Route to the shelf, reverse Du hast to the plate and finish with Frank's Better Half. | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dirty Dirty Dancing
Start as for Frank's Route, reverse Power Puku and finish with Dirty Dancing. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 16 Apr 2022 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Frantic Frank's Better Half
Start as for Frank's Better Half and finish with the remainder of Frantic. Might be harder than the grade. The final jug rail is out. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2022 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Frank's Scoops
Start as for Frank's Route, reverse Power Puku to the start of Frantic and head left through the smooth scoops to finish as for Leon's Line. The plate and Du Hast shelf are out. | 4m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Reverselina
Start as per Franks route, reverse power puku, avoid the plate and head left, finish up Transverselina Erstbegehung: Chris Hailey, 6 Aug 2023 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Big Power Puku
Start as for More Approaching Insanity and finish with Power Puku. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 29 Jan 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head
Start deep in the middle of the cave from a sit start with the left on a pinch/under cling pocket and the right on a the slopey chalked up hold in the roof. Press a foot on and find the knee bar for some powerful moves on the first tier holds to end at the Power Puku finish.https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Lea2BTJBqOU Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 11 Aug 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head into Maestro
Climb Check Your Head and finish with Maestro. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 29 Dez 2022 | 4m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Check Your Head - Reverse Du Hast - Leon's Finish
Climb Check Your Head, Reverse Du Hast and finish with the Leon's Line mantle. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★ Check Your Head into Dirty Dancing
Climb the first half of Check Your Head, reverse Power Puku and finish with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 4 Dez 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head Direct - Frank's Better Half
Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 11 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head Direct - Transversalina
Climb Check Your Head directly to the plate and reverse Du Hast to finish with Transverselina. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfqTghZabbc&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 20 Sep 2023 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Transverselina
Climb Check Your Head and finish with Transverselina. On the hard end of V7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TVQG2Y2ays&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 25 Aug 2023 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Power Puku Link-Up
Power Puku into Standing Ovation. Erstbegehung: Steve Conn | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Leon's Line
Start as for Frank's Route but continue straight thru the roof. Some big moves to bad holds will get you to jugs on the nose. Mantle the nose and drop off. The entire jug shelf and plate of Du Hast have been eliminated. beta: https://youtu.be/0_HPwpV2SCs Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 2 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7/8 | ★ Power Puku into Leon's Line
Climb Power Puku and finish with Leon's Line. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 3 Mär 2020 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Power Puku into Maestro
Climb the Power Poku and finish with the Maestro. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Cave Jam
Start as for More Approaching Insanity, climb Power Puku and finish with Maestro. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 10 Nov 2022 | 5m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Dirty Power Puku
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing. A big iron cross will get you into the start of Power Puku. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dirty Power Poku into Maestro
Start at four points of Dirty Dancing, climb the Power Puku and finish up at Maestro. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Sid Vicious
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, traverse into and climb Approaching Insanity and finish with Frank's Better Half and the second half of Frantic. https://youtu.be/ICVmxY_uNbk Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 24 Jul 2022 | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★ Sid Vicious Lite
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, traverse into and climb Approaching Insanity and finish with Frank's Better Half. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 31 Jan 2021 | 8m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Crimps into Power Puku
Start on two small side by side crimps down and left of the start for Power Puku. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Crimps into Power Puku into Maestro
Start as for Crimps into Power Puku Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Bungee into Dirty Dancing Ext.
Climb Bungee Jumping and then climb Dirty Dancing Extension. Erstbegehung: Will Howson, 7 Jan | ||||
V7/8 | ★ Psychosomatic
Climb Leon's Line and finish with Frank's Better Half. Erstbegehung: Marco Lefebvre, 26 Mär 2021 | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dirty Frank
Start at four points, climb to the plate then finish franks better half Erstbegehung: Chris Hailey, 22 Okt 2023 | 8m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Approaching Into Frank's Better Half
Start from the Approaching Insanity and finish with Franks's Better half. Erstbegehung: Ashkan, 18 Sep 2022 | 8m | |||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Alchemy | |||||
V7 | 1. V7+
Erstbegehung: Steve Conn | ||||
V7 | ★★ Armed Offenders
Erstbegehung: James Morris | ||||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip The Reservoir | |||||
V7 | ★ Empire Arete
Erstbegehung: Stu Kurth | ||||
Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Charlie's Wall | |||||
V7 | ★★ Big Boy Pants
Start the same as for 'Captain Underpants' then head right through the underclings and slopers up to the horn, eliminating the jug and edges on the face. Finish straight up as for 'Captain Underpants' Erstbegehung: Charlie Birch | ||||
V7 | ★★ Spread your legs
Sit start on the crimps on the face. Avoiding the arete, move through the low crimps on the face until the large flake, throw to the arete and finish straight up. Avoid the chossy face, join the large crack on the arete not before. Erstbegehung: William, 13 Apr 2022 | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Wharepapa Rock Swamp Wall | |||||
28 | Up The Bull No Babies
Slab on the right with an overhanging start. Erstbegehung: James Field-Mitchell, 23 Aug 2014 | 20m, 7 | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Pupuke Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★ Black Down Jackets Extension
Start as for BDJ, traverse low and right on pockets to finish with the V3 traverse. The first shelf above the start is out. | 4m | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari The Beer Garden | |||||
28 | ★★ Back From the Web
The bolted arch. Erstbegehung: Daniel Krippner, 10 Mär 2016 | ||||
V7 | ★ Toads Go Brrrrr
Left hand in big under cut pocket and the right in a good low pocket. Go straight up. Erstbegehung: Oliver Shanks, Nov 2022 | 2m | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | |||||
V7 | 9. G-force.
Low traverse from right to left. | ||||
V7 | 10. Jailbait
The reverse of 'G-force' with sit start (Underneath 'Time Guardians of Destruction') Climb left to right. | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | |||||
28 | ★★★ Louder
Erstbegehung: Ton Snelder, 1993 | 15m, 5 | |||
V7 | 16. The Link
Traverse left. Finish at staple bolt. | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | |||||
V7 | 9. Power On
Low traverse from left to right finishing on the slab. | ||||
V7 | 12. Direction Unknown
Traverse in starting on the face. Do not use arete once on face. | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Bulge Gully The Top Boulders | |||||
V7 | 5. Dustcake Cowboy
Intimidating climb tending left. Don't fall. Erstbegehung: Roland Foster | 5m | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Bulge Gully The Wave Wall | |||||
V7 | ★ Mono Madness
Start from two monos, traverse left into the start of Boldly Go and finish as for that problem. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Mini Mono Madness
Start as for Mono Madness and head straight up on small pockets. Erstbegehung: Leon Rudman, 8 Feb 2020 | 3m | |||
V7 | Sparkles Comes to Town
Climb thru the cave and finish slightly right up the dirty slab. | 5m | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
28 | Pocket Fish
Erstbegehung: Holger Moeller, 2007 | 9m, 3 | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Toliet Block Area | |||||
V7 | Mossy Menopause
Up the overhanging face to mossy pockets and summit. | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Main Cliff | |||||
28 | ★★ Burn
Erstbegehung: Scott Mooney, 1998 | 20m, 7 | |||
V7 | ★★ Keep Left Unless Overtaking
Sit start on the face left of 'Terror Incognito' arete. Follow crimps up and over bulge to good hold. | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
28 | Facial Reconstruction
Start as for 'Maddog Hine' / 'Built to Last' and finish up 'Hold Onto Your Face' Erstbegehung: James Field-Mitchell, 2011 | 20m, 5 | |||
28 | ★★★ Double Leaning Jowler
Erstbegehung: Ton Snelder, 1994 | 20m, 7 | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Love Vigilante Boulder | |||||
28 | ★ Love Vigilante
Slab climb to dynamic finish to lip of the roof. Erstbegehung: Isaac Buckley & James Field-Mitchell, 2020 | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Kingdom | |||||
V7 | 10. You Know Nothing John Snow
The slab behinds Duck Fat 2.0 | ||||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipapa Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Valhalla
Start up the corner right of Immortality. Stroll up to the bulge. Up through tricky steep section(crux). Sustained climbing to the anchor. Erstbegehung: James Field-Mitchell, 2012 | 20m, 10 | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Waipapa Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||
28 | ★★★ Hard Trad Specialist
Climb the arching seam just right of the corner. Can place a cam otherwise catch some air time. Erstbegehung: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 15m, 4 |