Begehungen in Leech Wall

Played around with several different ways of doing the crux, but all feel equally hard for me. Couldn’t actually connect the move today. Would love a beta lifeline for this one!

Would rate this route as “don’t bother” if it weren’t for the upper headwall section, which is almost decent.

A bit dirty.

Reckon I got it all figured out, basically comes down to 2 hard moves. Will be my secondary project after Bogus.

Another FA I’ve been fortunate enough to nab with minimal work, thanks to the generosity of friends. Not a great route tbh, but it’s got some good sequences. Pity about the ledge halfway though, otherwise would be a very good and sustained line.

Second go of the day, fourth day trying the route. Easily the most tie-ins I’ve ever had on a 25, and still barely managed to clip the anchor. Surely something has broken since the FA, it’s well hard.

I quite enjoyed the movement on this one. 28 seems ridiculously generous though!

Pretty crumbly down low, but I did enjoy the long moves over the roof.

This thing is my nemesis 😝! Fell clipping the anchor so maybe it’ll go down next time? Most sessions ever on a 25 by a long shot.

The last of the McCallum Elvis routes goes down. Fun and quite continuous from the 2nd bolt to the chains.

I love you Simon, but this route is rubbish!

Punted off the top twice, then managed to keep it together for the send. Really packs it in!

Climbs really well, and is more sustained than it looks. Certainly not a 23 as per the old grade on thecrag, but probably not quite 25 as in Tony’s guide. Well worth a lap.

Hung draws first go, second fell at the last hard move and one-hung, didn’t have time for a third. I hated this line at first and really liked it the next attempt. Go figure!

Went up to check it out, figured out some beta but the crux will need more work. It’s probably too late in the season to come back for now, but will make a good summer project.

Deserves half a star for the upper crux moves. Came one move away from the onsight, just went for the wrong hold. Went easily second go.

Not awful, but the quality is marred by the no hands rest ledge in the middle, and the proximity of the two bolt lines at the top.

Incredibly dusty, coated in a layer of caked dirt, but actually quite nice.

Partner broke a footer at the crux move to the anchor. Still goes, but felt a fair bit harder. I quite like this short and powerful route, not many like it around.

Unbelievably dirty, from dust to lichen to foot slips on pigeon poo. Some cool moves here and there, but needs a fire hose to make it worthwhile.

Very Dirty route with some loose blocks.

Not as dirty as the other routes on this wall, but the route is quite wandery and strange.

Not too bad but a bit dirty and chossy. Would've got the flash if I didn't wuss out and grab the last draw to clip.

Would be a nice climb if it wasn't dirty AF.

Cool moves at the bottom, hard though! Crux is the last move to the lip, at the anchor, which feels harder than 21. A pity the anchor isn't a little lower.

Somewhat marred by a band of choss at 2/3 height, but the start is good fun and flows nicely.

Better than expected, and a nice warm up.

Probably the dirtiest pitch of sport climbing I’ve ever done. Would be very popular at a less obscure crag.

No idea what the intended beta is for bolts 2-3, felt impossible not to veer right into the crack. However, doing so made it easier than 25.

Excellent climbing, good the whole way and would be very sustained without the rest ledge midway. A soft touch at 25, but great nonetheless.

Stout! Quite hard for the grade, packs a punch for a 4 bolt route. Will return with fresh arms.

Quite dirty but not actually bad climbing. G seconded and we both rapped from the top

Dirty(obviously), but the filth hides some really fun moves, particularly from the 5th bolt to the chains. A lot better than expected!

Hard to believe that something so steep can be so juggy. Soft for the grade.