Routen in Neuseeland für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Obvious right to left traverse starting from the prominent jug/horn beside the tree at the far right of the outcrop. Rising leftwards traverse, with some small holds beneath the prow. Avoid large jugs above and continue around corner to left end of outcrop to finish

Sit start with the right on a bad pinch and the left on the lowest edge. Head straight up the sharp arete. This problem is to the right of Eugene.

Start matched on the right. Traverse left to Prometheus, finish up the arete.

Climb the tall steep face with some big compression moves. You will find this climb just up the hill from Eugene at an amazing formation to the right of the big tree.

Sit start with a left side pull and a right crimp. Head straight up to the horn. This climb is just up the hill from Eugene.

Start as for Freak of Nature but head straight up pinching the fin.

Easier RH sit start using crack and edge on RH side of arete for first move

Up left face

The face just to the left of super extra gravity. Start on two opposing side pulls, the left is good. Head up to the jug in the break then to the top via a small edge and some slopers.

Right hand on the bad sloper out on the face, left on the knob. Throw the heal up then work hands up holds to a position to mantle.

Sit start matched low in the crack. Throw up to a pinch then traverse left along a nice series of crimps.

Match start on right sloper. Head left along the slopey ridges to reach the jug and top out.

Match start on the good ridge and dyno the triangle on the top and find a way to rock over. There are two good holds for the right and left feet.

start by matching on the crack and continue climbing until you need to make a big reach with your left hand into the crack to find a good jug, then use other jugs to finish the climb.

Sit start with the left on a bad pinch and the right low on the arete. Climb the black featureless arete to better holds. Highball

Squeeze the pinch so hard it produces liquid. Head to the right and top out.

From the top of the crack continue up the buttress with one bolt.

Climb the buttress left of Supergroove, past the ancient fixed ring piton to ledges, finish up Kamikaze Crack or Shitbox Klingons.

A NZ classic - they didn't come any harder than this in 1976. A bouldery start, to difficult moves past a bolt, then strenuous bridging to the top.

The overhung groove right of Supergroove to a bolt at half height, then follow the crack above.

Start as for Sneakeasy, stay left of the arete, finish up Wild Gravity.

Climb Bodysnatcher until you can move into the corner on the right. A few blocks were removed retrospectively before this route was mostly superseded by Pig Igneous.

Climb the overhung crack or buttress past a bolt and proceed up the groove above. A must-do.

Follow the groove left of Wired all the way.

Up the narrow groove on the left to the ledge of Gothic Groove, then move back left into the groove and up to rejoin Gothic Groove at the finish.

"The unpleasant way to do Sheerlux". If you get that joke you are showing your age.

Mostly sport but placing some wires at the top may be a good idea...

Beautiful sequins! Climb the buttress to the ledge.

The corner and arete. Some long reaches needed.

Climb the right-hand corner only.

The serrated crack left of the Orangutang corner. Dynamic and bold?

Right of arête, up to ledge, match to finish. V6 sit start, right of arête to ledge.

V5 left of arête.

Up the arete/face. Left crack is in (no jamming), anything past the crack is out. Everything including the right hand crack and past is out.

Located left of The Good Life. Left hand on a good edge, right on a tiny slopey undercling. Throw for the jug. Crux is getting the foot on.

Sit-start

A height dependant problem. Right hand on the sloping shelf and the left directly across on the arete. Compress your way to the finishing jug and mantle.

Start matched on the sloping shelf. Finish as for Little Island.

Start as for Little Island but move the right hand up one hold on the arete as the start. For shorter climbers.

Start with The Cross, traverse left and finish with Now Tell Me.

One move wonder. Sit start left hand side pull and right hand under cling. Move up and right to exit.

Shares the start with Climba Sutra. Straight up the face to the left side of the roof. You can clip the crux bolt from good sidepulls/underclings, then tackle the crux, moving right onto the small yellow face, then up on large pockets. After a few meters, the climbing eases off. Keep going up and right to the anchor.

From the belay of Buckle, move left and though the roof on pockets. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

Start in the middle of the column, climb to the roof on easy moves then punch through on small edges. Route stays slightly overhanging all the way to the top on good holds then goes over another bulge to meet the anchors.

Start at the right hand end of the column. Climb the first roof on good holds then punch through the overhanging bulge on small holds before getting a ledge. Climb the corner on slopey holds before veering left at the top for the anchors.

Start up the ramp (clip the first bolt of "Pneumothorax" then climb through the over hanging face, easy climbing before and after the crux. Shares anchors with "The Odyssey"

Climb the arete to the right of "Climb This You Bastard" some pretty funky moves with 2 distinct cruxes. Still needs anchors.

Climb the line left of equanimity through 3 distinct horns. Climbing to the roof is around 22/23 then a bouldery finish through the final horn. This one is long and through steep sections so extend draws that are after the steep sections to eliminate rope drag or prepare for a bicep workout.

Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun"

Straight up from the anchors at the top of Are We Tramping Yet? to an anchor in the middle of Space Ape.

This is the Tairua classic!

Pitch 1 (19) – Are we Tramping

Pitch 2 (22) 20m Climb easy honeycombed rock to the 2nd bolt,then power through the crux which consists of a series of good underclings with long reaches to small slopey edges.

Pitch 3 (18) 20m Delightful stemming up the steep corner to the large chickenhead visible from below. Can be done as one long pitch or two short pitches at 22/18.

Pitch 4 (26)15m. Up thru scoop and then consistently hard moves to the anchor.

Pitch 5 (21) 30m . Nice moves on good rock to bushy ledge.

Pitch 6 (16) 30m Up slabby ground to rap station just below bushline.

Pitch 1 to 3 Greg Kolbe; Edwin Sheppard Nov 2017

Pitch 4 to 6 Edwin Sheppard, Max Nov 2020

The hard thin crack and face to the right of Rohan’s Arete, sharing its anchor.

Climb on the overhang face for 4 staples and then join the top bolt of the route to the right.

Easy climbing for the first few bolts leads to a triple crux sequence (V3 / V4 / V2), then a welcome hands free rest before sustained 23 climbing takes you to another bouldery crux (trending left) that guards the anchor. Benchmark 26. Tick this and you're ready for the 27's.

A great climb to push yourself with safe falls and plenty of shade in the summer / sun in the winter.

Start left hand side pull as for stand start, right hand low crack, crank up to high crack and finish as per stand start.

Pull up onto the blunt arete in the middle of the boulder using a good side pull. Rock up and slap up to the sloper on the lip, then mantle.

Start with 3 points on the obvious rail feature low on the overhung face, then head up and right via a series of average edges, taking care to avoid dabbing on the rock behind.

Climb the chapel of ghouls then at the roof head left to a pumpy and burly finish up to the anchors of dans project. Watch out for rope drag and extend the draws in the roof and just below. Adds difficulty and brilliant roof moves onto the original line.

Link Chapel into Maximus

Far right end of the main crag. Starts with some funky moves pressing through the lip, head up through some tricky moves then head left and straight up the face. After the bulge easy slab to the anchors of C.O.G. Good idea to stick clip the second bolt and extend the fourth for added protection.

Climbs the thin seam and finishes at the tree.

A link up starting in the Collector, then goes up right to the top two bolts of Jim Takes A Tumble before heading back left tot he top (obviously contrived).

Start up the slab just right of ST. From the slab tackle the tilted wall.

Start as for Breakdance, but continue up the headwall from the pod.

Climbs the slab on small pockets. Avoid heading left onto Sex and Violence.

Starts steep and juggy before the left-facing corner. Tackle the final bulges to gain access to the anchor.

Climbs the gentle featured arete. Access from the top or a diagonal rap.

Alternate of Propagation. Start as for Propagation, but head left up the hanging arete.

The long corner above the track. Head through the roofs and escape left to the belay. Natural protection in the upper headwall.

SDS matched on the flake. Traverse right through the scoop and finish with Jelly. Great climb.

SDS with right on a low small edge and left on a slopey crimp.

Sit start with the right hand on a small edge in the crack and the left low in a scoop. The right side boulder is out.

Start matched on the left arete from a sit start. Left boulder is out.

Big moves on crimps leads to an easier but often wet upper section