Routen in North America für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Climbs the easternmost of the three major south buttresses of Combatant above the col. Approached via a bench at the elevation of the col (the Shelf)

Very steep for its grade. The second route on the Power wall. Very asthetic climbing & great rock on this one!

Inicio técnico, con salida a desplome y cazuelas , comparte seccion superior con papanicolau

Descend the pocket glacier to the base of the southeast buttress. Climb this buttress, through sandy broken terrain and with poor protection in places in the first ~75m. Above this, the rock improves up a steep yellow slab to a small gendarme. Descend into the notch and climb easier ground above to the summit.

Descend as per the West Ridge (down that route.)

Goes to bypass anchor.

Climb the black, lichen-covered depression in the south face, following corner systems to the east ridge, then to the summit.

First bolt line to the right of Pump o Rama. The rating can change doe to breaking of holds. Make certain all anchor bolts are connected.The grade on this climb has changed several times.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

Voie courte sur une proue déversante vers la droite. Video https://youtu.be/Ya9uhdEOkb4

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

4 bolts. climb up to the overhanging chunk of rock, pull some difficult moves up to a good ledge and continue up through easier climbing. Varitaon 12a — start traversing from shore, and work your way into the route. Difficulty varies depending on water level, with higher water level turns into a pump fest pulling through to the second bolt.

Relais équipé

Bolted line between Among the Stars and Aphrodite. Thin and technical down low, easing toward the top.

Begins off of the ledge atop Hollow Flake, Zamboni Man and Sprout Route. Follows the line of bolts to climber's right of the tree. Low crux leads to sustained and enjoyable friction.

un diesecito largo, el crux esta a la mitad es un paso de izquierda a derecha. preferentemente cuerda de 70 metros

Actually a top rope route.

Sit start

Easier from left to right. Start on Deliverance and traverse right along the base of the overhang. Go past Testicular, around the corner down low, and finish on jugs just before it becomes dangerous. Go there and back again for a solid 5.12-5.13 burn. Some fun variations exist going up to the ledge at various spots on the corner. Downclimb from these beside testicular.

Traverse the entire wall, stepping off as needed for breaks, and staying low for maximum pump value.

(Not freed as of 2006?)

Free climb possible?

Vía mixta (cams de entre 0.1 a 1) o juego de stoppers

Tiene secuencias de slab bastante picantes junto con slab de grieta. Finaliza igual en slab más a favor con texturas 3D.

Long and sustained

1st pitch goes at 5.10, second 5.12 You could link up the whole thing climbing a 55 mts pitch with the crux right below the chains. The last part feels overhanged and exposed, pretty wild being up there.

Arranque vertical tecnico, segunda proteccion con cadena, descando al 100 para entrarle a la panza con un boulder regletero y final panoramico.

Armador.- Marciano

Armador.- Marciano

La grieta que esta enmedio de "Sautanz" y "Tortillas" se recomiendan cams y stoppers offset

Vía técnica con el crux marcado

This is the right-most route on the Dong Wall. Climb up under and alongside the big black stalactite. Lower-off anchors. Start on the white flake on the right side of the Dong Wall. Aim for the big black stalactite.

Third route as you arrive at the arch. Characterized by a slab start into overhanging tufa/stalactite climbing. A long dance between knee bars, sit downs, stand ups, jugs. So good!

This route does not see a lot of traffic, please provide info as you can.

This route is located at the end of the Tarahumara Pass on the great wall on the left side. The beginning of the route is identified by a small pillar of stones as a reference. The base was cleaned by removing loose rock and thorny plants.

Esta ruta se ubica al final del paso Tarahumara, en la gran pared de lado izquierdo. El inicio de la ruta la identificas por pequeño pilar de piedras como referencia. Se hizo limpieza de la base quitando roca suelta y plantas espinosas.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ (9 bolts + anchors)

Pitch 2: 5.12- (14 bolts + anchors)

Overview:

• 'Approach' pitches, 1-6: 5.11-, 11-, 9, 8, 8, 8
• 'Bivy' Ledge (complete with fire pit, stashed sleeping bag, pads, blankets, dice, backgammon and Yahtzee =)
• 'Middle' pitches, 7-15: 5.4, 12-/10+A0, 9, 10, 11, 11, 10+, 11, 12/10A0
• 'Lunch Ledge'
• 'Upper' pitches, 16-27: 5.10, 9, 9+,10, 11, 9, 10, 9+, 9, 8, 10, 7
• Descent: WALK OFF

Descent Beta... from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridge-line (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col, cross the col, and hike back up to the ridge-line to join the Toro trail at the cross.

NOTES: - this is not just a long 'sport' route, like "Timewave". It is a different beast, altogether, very alpine, adventure climbing. Major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... - you can bail reasonably well up through pitch 17. Rappelling from above that point will be complicated, at best, due to traverses. If you do pitch 18, you are pretty committed to going to the top.

• during the FA, it was decided that pitch 20 needs another bolt at the crux. Its a little runout and exposed. I will fix this next season, but didn´t want to hold back opening the route to the public. fair warning, however... we fashioned a stick-clip on the spot.
• I have done a LOT of cleaning, but until the route sees traffic, there will always be some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy (but easy).
• pitches 5 and 6 are not current rappelable, due to the traverse and lack of rings (you could of course leave biners or quicklinks). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing.
• there are still fixed lines on most of the harder sections, pitches 1-2, 8, 10-15. pitch 20 does NOT have a fixed line
• Linking... most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked. 14,15, and 18 you definitely want to pitch out. 19, 20, 21, use your judgement (we chose to pitch them out, but i think you could 20-21). 24-25 i linked, but drag was pretty rough at the top.
• the photo below was done early on. slight changes in the route were made, and the upper pitch numbers (which were estimated) turned out incorrect. i dont have an original photo to reproduce the image (feel free to send me one, Rancho Sendero is a good vantage point). its not perfect, but its close. it should give you an idea of the route, at least.

Feel free to contact can contact Eric Werfel at eric.werfel@gmail.com with questions.

Bolted tufa left of the Bronco Bowls fixed rope. Get here by climbing Steel Pulse and the traversing all the way to the left anchors.

Starts at the far left of the ledge. You will see an aluminum plaque at the base in memory of Janosh Seidl. The first pitch trends out left into the crack.

70m rope is required to rap down.

Steep crack climbing and technical face climbing mulitpitch, following a natural line on the left side of the Mileski wall. The only route that goes to the top of the cliff above the entire Upper Sense of Religion, known as El Torero.

70m rope is mandatory. Can link at least pitches 3+4, and 13+14.

Please try it, and leave feedback! This is a new route, and use a trad mentality to test holds, have awareness of loose rock especially at the top, and be careful for those below. Have fun.

P1 5.11 Start on the ledge left of Permanent Vacation. Work left through lower-angle grey face to reach an obvious crack. Steep locks and stemming to the top. 32m, 9 bolts.

P2 5.12/+ Continue the pumpy crack for 5m to a rest, then 20m of continuous techy face climbing on excellent edges and pockets. 27m, 12 bolts.

P3 5.11 Another crack starts, with some pumpy moves until it eases up for fun, more sparsely bolted climbing. 34m, 13 bolts.

P4 5.7 Easy climbing over a bulge, then walk up low-angle slab. 35m, 5 bolts.

P5 5.10 Up from the ledge, works back right. 33m, 11 bolts

P6 5.11+ Multiple cruxes on great rock. Lots of balance moves, with three rest stances. 35m, 14 bolts

P7 5.11 Good crimping again, crux off the belay. 25m, 9 bolts.

P8 5.10+ Some long reaches with huecos and crimps. Goes through very pocketed volcanic-looking overhang feature. 30m, 14 bolts.

P9 5.10 Easy blocky start, then mantle a bulge. Finish with some delicate moves to belay. 30m, 11 bolts.

P10 5.10+ Fun face climb start off belay, then jugs to dihedral and a crimpy finish. One of our favorite pitches! 35m, 15 bolts.

P11 5.10 Balancy start, fun moves though deep pockets at overhang, trends to left. 30m, 13 bolts.

P12 5.10+ Not too difficult for first half, then some face climbing moves. 32m, 12 bolts.

P13 5.11 Fully engaging moves in a corner near the top, some loose rock to the left, pay attention. 35m, 14 bolts.

P14 5.10 To the top! Closely bolted in some sandy rock. The anchors go to a face just below the ridge. Can top out to the ridge with caution, whole top has loose rocks. 20m, 7 bolts.

70m rope.