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Plocha Guide

  • Bewertungskontext: FR
  • Fotos: 4
  • Begehungen: 51
  • Aka: Pilav Tepe

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jovan Ivanov Macedonian Sport Climbing Federation Oliver Andersen Mirjana Stojanova Ivan Kuzmanovski Andrej Dimitrievski

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Plocha 112 routes in Crag

Summary:
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Saisonalität

Bouldern, Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 41.621588, 22.314743

Übersicht

Plocha is one of the first and best arranged places in Macedonia for climbing. Suitable for climbing multipich routes and sport routes with grades from 3a to 8a. Within the place there are several boulders

Beschreibung

Climbing locality Plocha is located in the south-eastern part of Macedonia along the highway Shtip - Radovish.

Plocha belongs to one of the best arranged climbing areas in the country with clearly marked access paths as well as fluorescent foils for easier orientation in the night hours.

The composition of the rock is Granite mixed with admixtures of basalt, in certain parts covered with moss which makes the routes very slippery after the rain and sometimes makes it impossible to climb.

The central rock is the largest and most suitable for climbing, with north-eastern exposure and the end parts with north exposure. The main crag is 70 to 90 meters high.

The central rock itself is naturally divided by two horizontal terraces which extend over the entire width of the rock. It offers excellent conditions for safe standing on the anchors.

Most of the routes are covered with bolts, and the traditional routes are left in the condition of the first climb, only the anchors are with bolts.

Einschränkungen

Plocha is located in the southeastern part of the Republic of Macedonia between the cities of Stip (23km) ans Radovish (13km) next to the highway M6. Plocha is 115 km away from Skopje. The closest access from Bulgaria is through the border crossing of Novo Selo, also from the other border crossings on the Macedonian-Bulgarian border. Approach from the Greece is closest to the border crossing of Dojran but you can also come from the border crossing of Bogorodica - Gevgelija.

Übernachtung

The climbing hut is located just below the main rock and has 12 beds in two rooms with solid kitchen and toilet. The lighting is with the help of solar panels. Next to the house there are two concrete places where you can light a fire or perform other outdoor activities. The routes are 5 to 15 minutes away from the hut through marked paths. The stay is with appointments and reservations.

1.1. Kocka 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 41.621688, 22.314397

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ganesh

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov

3c Sport 7m, 5
2 Ochite na Shiva

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov

4a Sport 7m, 5
3 Sport Bili

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov

5a Sport 9m, 5
4 E, sho znam

Erschliesser: Jovan Ivanov

6a+ Sport 10m, 7
5 Enigma 6a+ Sport 10m
6 Ruska prolet

Erschliesser: Alex Guide & Zoran Majstorski

7a Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Kebap

Erschliesser: Alex Guide

7a Sport 13m
8 Learn to fly

Erschliesser: Jovan Ivanov

8c Sport 11m
9 Karma

Erschliesser: Jovan Ivanov

8b Sport 11m
10 JBL

Erschliesser: Jovan Ivanov, Boban Stojanov & Lazar Petkovski

8a Sport 12m
11 Linea Shopur

Erschliesser: Jovan Ivanov & Boban Stojanov

7a Sport 11m
12 Tet a Tet

Erschliesser: Lazar Petkovski & Jovan Ivanov

5a Sport 10m
13 Chipi chan

Erschliesser: Jovan Ivanov

4b Sport 9m
14 Stinki

Erschliesser: Lazar Petkovski

4b Sport 9m

1.2. Plocha 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 41.620999, 22.313729

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ice

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2007

5b Sport 65m, 2
2 GTZ

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2007

5c Sport 75m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Levicharski

Erstbegehung: 1988

5a Sport 70m, 2
4 Tomahavka 5b Sport 14m
5 BoZo

Erstbegehung: Zoran Majstorski & Boban Stojanov, 2007

6a Sport 75m, 2
6 Sajber 6a Sport 13m
7 Esenski denovi

Erschliesser: Alex Guide

7a Sport 20m
8 Lavjo srce

Erschliesser: Alex Guide

6c Sport 27m
9 Aleksandar

Erstbegehung: Zoran Majstorski, 2006

{UIAA} 6- Traditionell 70m, 2
10 Kvantas

Тhis was a traditional route from 1988 and for many years was considered as the most difficult in this area. Since 2007 it's sport route

Erstbegehung: Ivo Ivchevski & Gorgievski, 1988

6b Sport 70m, 2
11 Blue river

Тhere are no pitons in the route, the first ascent was made with hexes and friends

Erstbegehung: Lazar Petkovski, Boban Stojanov & Jovan Ivanov, 2005

{UIAA} 4 Traditionell 110m, 3
12 Shtipski

Erstbegehung: Ivo Ivchevski & Zivko Arsovski, 1988

{UIAA} 4+ Traditionell 100m, 2
13 Chesniot krst

Erstbegehung: Zoran Majstorski, 2020

5 Traditionell 100m, 3
14 Dvojna igra

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2010

5a Sport 100m, 3
15 Raketa

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski & Boban Stojanov, 2007

5a Sport 110m, 3
16 1000 Godini Radovish

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski, 2020

6b Sport 100m, 3
17 Centrala

Erstbegehung: Ivo Ivchevski & Ratko, 1988

{UIAA} 4 Traditionell 110m, 3
18 Majstorski

Erstbegehung: Nadir Murseli, Nov 2023

6a Sport 110m, 3
19 Mladina 88

This is the first ever route of this area, climbed in 1988

Erstbegehung: Sinisha Najdovski & Toni Nikolovski, 1988

{UIAA} 4 Traditionell 130m, 4
20 Dva Roberta

Erstbegehung: 1988

{UIAA} 5 Traditionell 110m, 3
21 Astrajon

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2012

5c Sport 120m, 3
22 Perun

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2010

6a Sport 110m, 3
23 Atis

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski & Boban Stojanov, 2007

5a Sport 110m, 3
24 Bonbona

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov & Zikica Ivanovski, 2007

5a+ Sport 110m, 3
25 Trojka

Erstbegehung: Sinisha Najdovski & Vlatko Popstojmenov, 1989

{UIAA} 4 Traditionell 70m
26 Cicho

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski

6a Sport 15m
27 Ficho

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski

5b Sport 15m
28 Snake

Erstbegehung: Zoran Majstorski, 2008

6a Sport 120m, 3
29 Previs

Erstbegehung: 1988

{UIAA} 6+ Traditionell 25m
30 Osi

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski

6a Sport 12m
31 Kali

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2011

5c Sport 120m, 3
32 Tik Tak 6b+ Sport 20m
33 Kosmos

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski & Boban Stojanov

6a Sport 130m, 3

1.3. Mala Plocha 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 41.620250, 22.315070

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Maliot rab {UIAA} 4 Traditionell 35m
2 Zaboraveni

Erstbegehung: Goce Jovanovski & Pande Farmakov, 2009

{UIAA} 5 Traditionell
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 No name {UIAA} 4 Traditionell 45m
4 Shumski

Erstbegehung: Zoran Majstorski & Boban Stojanov, 2004

{UIAA} 5 Traditionell 45m
5 Brzi Dzo

Erstbegehung: Boban Stojanov, Zoran Majstorski & Jovan Ivanov, 2004

{UIAA} 5 Traditionell 45m
6 Katanga

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2007

5b Sport 45m, 2
7 Mala Centrala

Erstbegehung: Zoran Majstorski & Boban Stojanov, 2004

5b+ Sport 45m, 2
8 Mladozenja

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov & Goran Samonikov, 2011

{UIAA} 5 Traditionell 45m
9 Gjurgjovdenski

Erstbegehung: Zoran Majstorski & Sashko Petrov, 2000

{UIAA} 4 Traditionell 45m
10 Apolo

Erstbegehung: Lazar Petkovski & Jovan Ivanov, 2004

{UIAA} 5 Traditionell 45m
11 Happy junior

Erstbegehung: Boban Stojanov & Goran Samonikov, 2009

{UIAA} 4 Traditionell 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Terasos

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov, 2012

5b Sport 30m
13 Kamin {UIAA} 6 Traditionell 40m

1.4. Sektor A 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 41.619997, 22.314788

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Facebook

Erschliesser: Boban Stojanov

5a Sport 8m
2 King Kong

Erschliesser: Zoran Majstorski

6b Sport 15m
3 Mijagi

Erschliesser: Jovan Ivanov

6c Sport 12m
4 Inizio

First sport route at Plocha. The name comes from the Italian word "Inizio" which means beginning

Erschliesser: Lazar Petkovski, Boban Stojanov & Jovan Ivanov

6b+ Sport 11m
5 Krsh 6c Sport 14m
6 Bancik 6c Sport 14m
7 Kica men 6b Sport 14m
8 Edno drvo 6a Sport 14m

1.5. Boulder 1 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Alle Bouldern
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1 5 Boulder
2 2 4 Boulder
3 3 6A Boulder
4 Noken Ez 6A+ Boulder
5 Gradska Trka 6C Boulder
6 Kjoshe 6A Boulder
7 Cevche i sokche 5 Boulder
8 8 6A Boulder
9 Z'toklunci 6A+ Boulder
10 Mov Slaves 5 Boulder

1.6. Boulder 2 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 41.621916, 22.315261

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 NN1 {FB} 5 Boulder
2 NN2 {FB} 7A Boulder
3 Daydreamer

Start from the good holds, make a big move out left to sloping holds in the crag line. From these gain the shelf and finish up in the middle of the face.

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams

{FB} 7A Boulder
4 In the moment

Sit start. Start in the small edges just left from starting holds of "Daydreamer".Make move to another small ashe to gain better holds on the lip. Finist directly rockingonto and up the slab. Stay left and eliminate the better holds on right.

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams

{FB} 7C Boulder
5 Out of Mind

Sit start from the bigger edges just right of "In the moment" problem. Climb up to slight prow on improving holds.

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams

{FB} 7A Boulder
6 Johnny English

Sit start, a hard tight eliminate line that does not use the better holds on between left and right problems. Start with the right hand in a undercut just left of the jug and the left on a small good side pull just down and right of the mini prow. Make big moves up sloping holds.

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams

{FB} 8A+ Boulder
7 Inspector Clouseau

Erstbegehung: Elliot Shiel, 2016

{FB} 6C Boulder
8 NN4 {FB} 6A Boulder

1.7. Boulder 3 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Alle Bouldern
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 NN {FB} 4 Boulder
2 Dzeki sit

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2014

{FB} 6A Boulder
3 Dzeki

The first boulder route in this locality

Erstbegehung: Jovan Ivanov, 2007

{FB} 5 Boulder
4 NN2 {FB} 6C Boulder
5 Addict Initiative

SS from pockets just to the right, make tought moves fallowing the lip of the roof to gain the jugs and an easier finish.

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2014

{FB} 7B Boulder
6 The Ambasador

Climb direct out of the middle of the roof. A tough pull on with undercut for the left hand and a choice of small holds for the right. Leads to a dinamic slap to gain a pocket, right of the jugs of "Addict Initiative" and an easier finish.

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2014

{FB} 8A Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 NN3

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams

{FB} 7A Boulder
8 Scimitar

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 7A Boulder
9 Scimitar Extension

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 7B Boulder
10 Little slaper

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 7B Boulder
11 Slap Happy

Around the back of the boulder is a groove climb this using the bad slippers to gain the crimp and the top.

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 7C Boulder

1.8. Boulder 4 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Alle Bouldern
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Minoroty Report

Erstbegehung: Dan Crawford, 2016

{FB} 6C Boulder
2 Invocation

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 7C Boulder
3 Uncertainty Principle

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 8A Boulder
4 Golem Smok

SS. Start with two good holds for left and right hand. The direction moves vertically wit big move to good hold and then finish to the left (avoid the possibility of an exit to the right)

Erstbegehung: Jovan Ivanov, 8 Mai

6A Boulder
5 Mal Smok

SS

Erstbegehung: Mila Mitreska, 8 Mai

4 Boulder

1.9. Boulder 6 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Alle Bouldern
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lion Heart

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2014

{FB} 8B Boulder
2 Lion of Macedon

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 8A Boulder

1.10. Boulder 7 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Alle Bouldern
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tommorow Never Dies

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 8A Boulder
2 Skyfal

SS.. Climb the slighty overhangign wall via edges. A dificult start leads to easier moves then a highball finish

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2014

{FB} 7C Boulder
3 Edge od Oblivion

Climb the attractive arete, avoid the corner in the right, via series of slaps until holds on the left face can be gain and a finish up the side wall heading to the obvious jug

{FB} 7C+ Boulder
4 Bivak

In the past this block was cleared of stones in order to be a bivouac shelter during rains. However, after twenty years it turned out that the block is suitable for a super good boulder line

Erstbegehung: Jovan Ivanov, 12 Apr

6C Boulder
5 Bivak direkt

SS

Erstbegehung: Jovan Ivanov, 14 Apr

6A Boulder
6 Youth Roof

Erstbegehung: 2019

{FB} 6B+ Boulder
7 Old Man Roof

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 7C+ Boulder
8 Lumberjack

Erstbegehung: Mike Adams, 2016

{FB} 7A+ Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
3c Ganesh Sport 7m, 5 1.1. Kocka
4 Blue river Traditionell 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Centrala Traditionell 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Mladina 88 Traditionell 130m, 4 1.2. Plocha
Trojka Traditionell 70m 1.2. Plocha
Gjurgjovdenski Traditionell 45m 1.3. Mala Plocha
Happy junior Traditionell 45m 1.3. Mala Plocha
Maliot rab Traditionell 35m 1.3. Mala Plocha
No name Traditionell 45m 1.3. Mala Plocha
4a Ochite na Shiva Sport 7m, 5 1.1. Kocka
4+ Shtipski Traditionell 100m, 2 1.2. Plocha
4b Chipi chan Sport 9m 1.1. Kocka
Stinki Sport 9m 1.1. Kocka
5 Dva Roberta Traditionell 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Apolo Traditionell 45m 1.3. Mala Plocha
Brzi Dzo Traditionell 45m 1.3. Mala Plocha
Mladozenja Traditionell 45m 1.3. Mala Plocha
Shumski Traditionell 45m 1.3. Mala Plocha
Zaboraveni Traditionell 1.3. Mala Plocha
4 2 Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
NN Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Mal Smok Boulder 1.8. Boulder 4
5a Sport Bili Sport 9m, 5 1.1. Kocka
Tet a Tet Sport 10m 1.1. Kocka
Atis Sport 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Dvojna igra Sport 100m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Levicharski Sport 70m, 2 1.2. Plocha
Raketa Sport 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Facebook Sport 8m 1.4. Sektor A
5a+ Bonbona Sport 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
5 Chesniot krst Traditionell 100m, 3 1.2. Plocha
5b Ficho Sport 15m 1.2. Plocha
Ice Sport 65m, 2 1.2. Plocha
Tomahavka Sport 14m 1.2. Plocha
Katanga Sport 45m, 2 1.3. Mala Plocha
Terasos Sport 30m 1.3. Mala Plocha
6- Aleksandar Traditionell 70m, 2 1.2. Plocha
5b+ Mala Centrala Sport 45m, 2 1.3. Mala Plocha
5c Astrajon Sport 120m, 3 1.2. Plocha
GTZ Sport 75m, 2 1.2. Plocha
Kali Sport 120m, 3 1.2. Plocha
6 Kamin Traditionell 40m 1.3. Mala Plocha
6+ Previs Traditionell 25m 1.2. Plocha
6a BoZo Sport 75m, 2 1.2. Plocha
Cicho Sport 15m 1.2. Plocha
Kosmos Sport 130m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Majstorski Sport 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Osi Sport 12m 1.2. Plocha
Perun Sport 110m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Sajber Sport 13m 1.2. Plocha
Snake Sport 120m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Edno drvo Sport 14m 1.4. Sektor A
6a+ E, sho znam Sport 10m, 7 1.1. Kocka
Enigma Sport 10m 1.1. Kocka
6b 1000 Godini Radovish Sport 100m, 3 1.2. Plocha
Kvantas Sport 70m, 2 1.2. Plocha
Kica men Sport 14m 1.4. Sektor A
King Kong Sport 15m 1.4. Sektor A
5 1 Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
Cevche i sokche Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
Mov Slaves Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
NN1 Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
Dzeki Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
6b+ Tik Tak Sport 20m 1.2. Plocha
Inizio Sport 11m 1.4. Sektor A
6c Lavjo srce Sport 27m 1.2. Plocha
Bancik Sport 14m 1.4. Sektor A
Krsh Sport 14m 1.4. Sektor A
Mijagi Sport 12m 1.4. Sektor A
6A 3 Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
8 Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
Kjoshe Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
NN4 Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
Dzeki sit Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Golem Smok Boulder 1.8. Boulder 4
Bivak direkt Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
6A+ Noken Ez Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
Z'toklunci Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
7a Kebap Sport 13m 1.1. Kocka
Linea Shopur Sport 11m 1.1. Kocka
Ruska prolet Sport 10m 1.1. Kocka
Esenski denovi Sport 20m 1.2. Plocha
6B+ Youth Roof Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
6C Gradska Trka Boulder 1.5. Boulder 1
Inspector Clouseau Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
NN2 Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Minoroty Report Boulder 1.8. Boulder 4
Bivak Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
7A Daydreamer Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
NN2 Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
Out of Mind Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
NN3 Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Scimitar Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
7A+ Lumberjack Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
7B Addict Initiative Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Little slaper Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Scimitar Extension Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
8a JBL Sport 12m 1.1. Kocka
7C In the moment Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
Slap Happy Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Invocation Boulder 1.8. Boulder 4
Skyfal Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
8b Karma Sport 11m 1.1. Kocka
7C+ Edge od Oblivion Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
Old Man Roof Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
8c Learn to fly Sport 11m 1.1. Kocka
8A The Ambasador Boulder 1.7. Boulder 3
Uncertainty Principle Boulder 1.8. Boulder 4
Lion of Macedon Boulder 1.9. Boulder 6
Tommorow Never Dies Boulder 1.10. Boulder 7
8A+ Johnny English Boulder 1.6. Boulder 2
8B Lion Heart Boulder 1.9. Boulder 6
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