Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Di 16. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Pharaoh | 33m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
good enough.
|
||||||
Di 27. Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Kraken - mit JD | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
p1, cleaning after JDs awesome lead, heady laybacking crux. Finger didn't seem to mind
|
||||||
Mi 8. Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams
- mit
5*
1
14
20m
2
10
20m
3
13
28m
4
13
25m
5
14
40m
| 130m, 20 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
last pitch middle bolted into gear finish.
|
||||||
Fr 3. Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle - mit 5 star | 50m, 8 | ||||
15 ~17 | ★★ Another Man's Juliet - mit 5 star | 48m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.
|
||||||
Mo 30. Okt 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle - mit 5star crew, Lliam gabe | 50m, 8 | ||||
P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.
P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal. Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17. |
||||||
12 leicht | ★★ The Eyrie - mit 5star crew, Lliam gabe | 45m, 3 | ||||
The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.
Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top. Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots. |
||||||
Fr 20. Okt 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
11 | ★ Angular Crack | 25m | ||||
Loose block/flake at 2/3 could prolly go a trundle
|
||||||
Do 19. Okt 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 ~16 | ★★ S.S.C.C.1 | 25m | ||||
Bolt protected crux
|
||||||
15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ||||
Di 17. Okt 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ The Obituary - mit 5-star crew | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Finally actually climbed the route, by which I mean on TR.
|
||||||
Di 11. Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
11 |
★ Prologue P1
- mit
bridie
1
11
8m
| 8m | ||||
15 | ★★ Hope - mit bridie | 15m | ||||
Decided to change it up and not wear approachies and fall off. Used as access to P2 flake
|
||||||
So 15. Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - mit pat | 22m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
yoyo I guess ?? Cleaning up pats 3/4 lead
|
||||||
Mi 14. Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - mit Michael Moore, Sarah | 27m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Piddo day - star chasing
|
||||||
Sa 16. Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 13. Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
So much funsies
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Woop woop, climbs even better then it looks.
|
||||||
So 13. Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
8 | ★ Faith - mit Nathan Eager | 52m | ||||
13 | ★ Charity - mit Nathan Eager | 14m | ||||
Would welcome an explanation of how these climbs managed to score an anchor of about 15 bolts past and present...and it still looks jank. Two well placed stainless glue ins and some cammo chopped bolts anyone ???
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack - mit Nathan Eager | 53m | ||||
First pitch only
|
||||||
Fr 15. Jan 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Windjammer - mit infamous_snapgate | 30m | Durchschnitt | |||
Approachies send
|
||||||
Do 14. Jan 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Jaws - mit snapgate | 32m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard - mit snapgate | 26m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Approachies
|
||||||
Sa 19. Dez 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks - mit Match | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Sa 3. Okt 2020 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak Summit Boulders | ||||||
12 | ★ Get Your Motors Running | 20m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 2. Sep 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph - mit mikey mike | 46m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Warm ups
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath - mit mikey mike | 28m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Second in approachies, was a bit relucant to get back on it but feels like a must for each trip
|
||||||
Do 16. Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Juggernaut - mit snapgate, Sean Kelly | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Resigned myself to a mixed face and crack approach with good results. Will have to lead next time- few large cams, with a 5 and 2 sixes.
|
||||||
Mi 15. Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Following the hectic 2 pitch, 2 day siege self-yoyo approach by snapgate. Mega classic with a lovely finish !
|
||||||
Mi 15. Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Erg - mit snapgate | 25m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Snapgate tells me the tree anchor is a bit stuffed, recommends CIT bolted anchors.
Aided up a meter or two to check the gear for snapgates ascents given the routes history, all seemed fine. Beautiful route, awesome climbing. Paper book gives no stars, it can go get stuffed. |
||||||
Di 14. Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ||||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Jam school with sean, felt a bit loose in approachies.
|
||||||
Mo 13. Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
good to have big gear for the opening moves
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Sa 11. Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | ||||
That move right is wild on lead and seccond.
|
||||||
Di 7. Jul 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Icebird | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Quick second before the rain.
|
||||||
Sa 20. Jun 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Superliner | 35m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Recent rebolt - from upper stance fresh looking U bolts, single rack of cams +120 cm sling for thread.
|
||||||
So 23. Feb 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Gently Mine | 50m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
No stuck cams today
|
||||||
Fr 21. Feb 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
16 |
★★★ The Gates of Janus P1
1
16
20m
| 20m | ||||
So 1. Dez 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ||||
So wild
|
||||||
So 24. Nov 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 1. Aug 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate | 15m | ||||
Do 1. Aug 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So good, thin ?fradgile corner leads to glory hands
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Needed to lower after hanging to clean gear. The top crack is sooo good
|
||||||
Mi 31. Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ★ Gut | |||
Three star crack, minus 2 for the poorly protected face climbing start.
One of the three Stuck cams has been cleaned. |
||||||
Do 18. Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Smoked Banana
1
| 40m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
A no4 at the first chockstone and a no5 for the last move keeps it pg. Superclassic, don't walk past it.
|
||||||
Di 16. Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ||||
still don't like that low face climbing section, lovely upper.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Neon Philharmonic | 35m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Mo 19. Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
18 | ★★ Huey | 16m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
What a line. Stiff start.
|
||||||
Mo 19. Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
First moves seemed stiff for a book 18, started at tree - seemed a bit stiff.
|
||||||
Sa 17. Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Kinkaid | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 12. Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Bad Company | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Such quality rock at lower grade. Tree with Mallion lower off.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Di 10. Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Doesn't work with a sprained ankle.
|
||||||
So 8. Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ||||
Soo good. Can use small gear out left to avoid large gear.
|
||||||
Sa 7. Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
19 | ★★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 30m | ||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Mo 2. Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order | 30m | ||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ||||
So 1. Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Cock Crack | 38m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Feels at least a grade easier then jugganaught, lovely hands and fist leasing to the wide, with great rests and features to keep things reasonable. As the crack widens Craig used ball nuts and a no3 c4 before launching up the arete and over the smokestack to the chains. Three stars for sure.
|
||||||
Mi 27. Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Mega classic. Excellent gear, excellent climbing. Can rap with a 65m rope from the bolts above.
|
||||||
Di 26. Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ||||
A bit thin and commuting in parts.
|
||||||
Sa 23. Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★ Orchid Alley | 20m | ||||
Sa 16. Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin - mit kat, terry | 12m | ||||
Felt a little sketchy in approach shoes. Had a crack at getting the stuck small black cam out. It's moving, just needs a bit more attention to liberate.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Mainliner - mit kat, terry | 20m | ||||
Difficult to protect early wide sections leads to pleasant jamming on the face, all over too soon.
|
||||||
Do 14. Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner | 25m | ||||
Stiff, insecure start leading to beautify cormer with a crack system on each. Kal regretted not bringing more 3/4 Camelot's.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Forked Tongue | 15m | ||||
Favourite of the day, fun vari d climbing with good gear. Extra star if getting off was easier.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Southern Comfort | 15m | ||||
What a line. Gear looked good. What's the go with the lower off ? Two bolt hangers connected to chain with snaplink allow biners ? Works I guess.
|
||||||
Fr 8. Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
11 | ★★ Pedro - mit Ben | 36m | ||||
Ben chose the right hand start to keep it spicy . Just as enjoyabe the second time around, fitting last climb for the trip, sullied only by Ben shunning the bountiful cowbell placements.
|
||||||
Mi 23. Mai 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac | 25m | ||||
Mi 23. Mai 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Mi 23. Mai 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 26. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Lovely little climb
|
||||||
Do 26. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ||||
Mi 25. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Eurydice - mit timbo | 65m, 2 | ||||
Mi 25. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct - mit timbo | 25m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
So 22. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Devoid | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Thin moves down low lead to very reasonable climbing.
|
||||||
Sa 21. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon | 40m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Followed Jacob up the chimney for the first time. Gear not totally unreasonable but excellent climbing
|
||||||
Sa 21. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Kaiser - Resignation | 99m | ||||
Traverse a bit goey for a 15. Probably accidentally went high and found only limited gear.
|
||||||
Fr 20. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 19. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Crucifixion | 12m | ||||
Mi 18. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
Mi 18. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | ||||
P1 only
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Jens roof | 30m, 1 | ||||
Di 17. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack | 80m | ||||
P1 only, rap off digareedoo
|
||||||
Mo 16. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Piccolo | 33m | ||||
Mo 16. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - mit adam | 40m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
So 15. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ||||
Ended up on mix green shit and turquoise
|
||||||
Fr 13. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Lumpy on jugs and good jams. Great 3d moves. Gear looked good.
|
||||||
Fr 13. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur - mit timbo | 25m | ||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid - mit timbo | 25m | ||||
Do 12. Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Rosy Shy | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fr 30. Mär 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Lead P1,3, mark P2, 4-5 with arete p5
|
||||||
Mi 28. Mär 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ||||
Second
|
||||||
Sa 9. Dez 2017 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
17 | ★ Eye of the Tiger | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
19 | ★★ Simple Pleasures | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 14. Feb 2016 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
17 | ★★ Cannonball | 22m | ★ Gut |