Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sa 2. Nov 2019 - The Cathedral Range | ||||||
Bisset's Pinnacles Topmost Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | FA ★ Easy Virtue - mit Richard Smith | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
On the first ascent this felt harder than 18 and I see that in 'Screamer 13'(May'83) it is listed as 21. It was quite dirty and I cleaned it on lead, which could explain the grade discrepancy. The name reflects the debate on the ethics of pre-inspecting and pre-cleaning climbs, which was current at the time. (All seems a bit passé now).
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Mo 12. Jun 2017 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
23 | FA ★★★ Pub Grubs And Bloody Greenies - mit Ben Vincent | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Seconded Ben with a few rests. The first strenuous fingery layback moves from the ground - and getting established immediately afterwards seemed harder than 22. Based on the principle that a climb shouldn't be given a grade easier than its hardest move, I'd take that into account.
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23 | FA ★★ Chewin Fat With The Paleo Brat - mit carol lee | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Seconded Carol on this with a few rests, I accept that I'm a bit long in the tooth for this sort of thing but but it seemed much harder than 21 to me. Possibly no individual moves harder than 22 but string them together (with nothing between which qualifies as a real rest) and take into account the technical nature of the moves... and you've got yourself a 23. OK that's my two bob's worth... Comments anyone?
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Di 15. Dez 2015 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
16 | FA Geronim- Alternate Direct Finish - mit J. Lattanzio | 30m | Durchschnitt | |||
Mo 26. Okt 2015 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
16 | FA ★★ Last Straw - mit Lamonis Kavalieris | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Straightforward with modern pro. One star.
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Di 6. Okt 2015 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
16 |
★ Bottled Neat
1
15
Vorstieg durch
Richard
2
16
Vorstieg durch
Carol
| 53m | ★ Gut | |||
Perhaps the crux at the start of pitch 2 deserves 17 (delicate and airy). The 'spiky vines' mentioned by someone else at the start of the final crack are not spiky and are avoided by stepping onto the easy right wall.
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Okt 2015 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Descent Gully Cliff | ||||||
18 | FA ★ Silk Aromas - mit Carol | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Seconded Carol on her first ascent.
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Sa 15. Aug 2015 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Risky Shift | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Carol led in style. I've done the climb a few times now and it's definitely better than the 'average' rating that first ascentionist gave it. The slightly 'iffy' first moves can be well protected with a little patience.
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So 5. Apr 2015 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Exorcist - mit Chris Larque | 50m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Chris did a bold lead for the time.
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Do 25. Sep 2014 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Sixth Breakaway | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Lethal Dose - mit John Lattanzio | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Couldn't believe I got up this after 3 decades away and managed to second it clean. More straightforward than Toxic Shock.
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20 | ★★ Toxic Shock - mit John Lattanzio | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Hadn't done this for 30 years and it showed. Oh well... at least I got up it.
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Fr 25. Jul 2014 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall The Jungle | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Angels and Us alternate finish - mit Ben V | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Seconded this one. Had to rig up a back rope on the traverse as I couldn't see the footholds in the gathering darkness. Ben could barely hear me and must have wondered what the f___ was happening as I called for 'slack on yellow and tight on white'.
Aided a couple of moves on the fisty crack in the dark before grabbing the fig tree with a degree of relief. Untangled the ropes at the top purely by feel. - Another adventure. Oh Yeah!
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Sa 19. Jul 2014 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Three Sisters East Gully | ||||||
16 | FA ★★ Clarence Frogman Henry - mit Cal | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
18 | FA ★ Richard the Obscure - mit Cal | 16m | ★ Gut | |||
21 | FA ★★ Trying Time - mit Al | 8m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
18 | FA ★★★ House of Cards - mit Al | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
20 | ★★ The Rough Diamond - mit Al | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
18 | FA ★★ Lady Finger's Boudoir Biscuits - mit Brian | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
18 | FA ★ Just an Old-Fashioned Girl - mit Brian | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
18 | FA ★ High Mass - mit Brian | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 12. Jul 2014 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
The Glen | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Loose Composure | 50m | ||||
A Hairy, Scary adventure. Onya Ben.
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Fr 27. Jun 2014 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
The Glen | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Brawn & Bovril - mit Ben | 50m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Nice to be back new routing. This was a good one to test how the fitness, strength and technique are going. Confidence could be better!
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So 25. Mai 2014 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Dome Wall Middle Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Autumnal Beauty - mit Carol | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great to get back to this old favourite. I had forgotten just how good it is. Great variety for a climb of this length.
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Sa 15. Mär 2014 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Cathedral Rock The isolated pillar | ||||||
21 | FA ★ Street Café - mit as second | 30m | ||||
Seconded Al
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Di 3. Dez 2013 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
19 | ★ Smike | 83m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Got a shock when Ben turned nasty and threw a shoebox-sized block at me while doing a one-handed layback at the start of pitch 2.
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Mo 2. Dez 2013 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
18 | ★ Horrendous Episode | 93m | ★ Gut | |||
Must do a few more chin-ups!
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Fr 13. Sep 2013 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
18 | FA ★ Failsafe | 20m | ||||
Fr 1. Mär 2013 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor Cream Buttress | ||||||
18 | FA ★★★ Cream - mit Jim G | 43m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fr 8. Feb 2013 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Fingers | 8m | ||||
Gradually tapers down until a lunge for the top.
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Fr 8. Feb 2013 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
15 | FA ★ The Removalist - mit seconded | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Nice little number.
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19 | FA ★★ Narcissus | 15m | ||||
Mo 26. Dez 2011 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation | 90m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Yeah. Me too Jack.
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2004 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
16 | Patient Scruff | 30m | Durchschnitt | |||
2000 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
23 | FA ★★★ CS - mit Ben | 93m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
1997 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ The Far Side - mit John | 93m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good alternate finish to Red Disc.
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1996 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Orchidview Terrace | ||||||
22 | FA ★★★ A Stranger to Friction - mit one rest | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
1996 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Broken Terrace | ||||||
21 | FA ★★★ Tiny Tips - mit Johno | 40m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
1996 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Orchidview Terrace | ||||||
19 | FA ★★★ Orchadia - mit Johno | 100m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1995 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Fifth Breakaway | ||||||
8 | FA Elbow Twister - mit Vaughan Curtis, John Oddie | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
1995 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Facial Discrimination - mit Johno | 230m | ★ Gut | |||
We thought we did a first ascent, only to find out years later that it had been done by two of my previous climbing partners while I was living in Melbourne. We probably did a different series of pitches after the crux pitch.
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1995 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Broken Terrace | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Sailors of the Sun - mit Johno | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
20 | FA ★★ Surprising Rising - mit Johno | 40m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
19 | FA ★ Tigger's Pause | 60m | ||||
1995 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall The Jungle | ||||||
16 | FA ★ P's and Q's - mit Johno | 75m | ★ Gut | |||
20 | FA ★★ Angels and Us - mit Johno | 83m | ||||
Fr 12. Jul 1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | ||||||
16 | FA Getting Up | Durchschnitt | ||||
Do 11. Jul 1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Overdrive Wall | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Adrenaline Overdrive | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Do 11. Jul 1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall | ||||||
21 | FA ★★★ Silk 'N' Steel | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Pink Slip - mit Ed | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
20 | FA ★ Bitter Fingers - mit Ed | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | ||||||
15 | FA Knuckle Sandwich | 10m | Durchschnitt | |||
1991 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
18 | FA Shattered - mit Jack | 15m | ||||
1991 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Pineapple Rough | ||||||
17 | FA ★ Backwards to the Future - mit Jack and Chris | 70m | ★ Gut | |||
17 | FA Trad Jaz - mit Jack | 40m | Durchschnitt | |||
1988 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Goose n' Off - mit John Lattanzio, Tim Ball | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Worth a star - perhaps two if the vines at the top were trimmed.
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1986 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Wallaby Wall & Slab City | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Unholy Trinity - mit Jack and Brian | 45m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
I led the first pitch and Jack led the crux second pitch
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1986 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
16 | FA First Offence | 25m | Durchschnitt | |||
1986 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor Nirvana Buttress | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Our Man in Nirvana - mit Richard | 55m | ★ Gut | |||
1986 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
22 | ★★ Supermouse - mit John Lattanzio | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Extremely thin on holds. Main difficulty is hanging around to place small wires.
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1986 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 | FA ★★ Terminal Operator - mit Richard | 42m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1985 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Bondage Buttress | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Grab the Snatch - mit Paul Colyvan, B Birchall, S Gaye | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Led by Animal
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18 | FA ★ Snatch and Grab - mit Richard Curtis | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
1984 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Mix Master boulders | ||||||
21 | FA ★ Bad Times Just Around The Corner - mit Al Stephens | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
1984 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Dome Wall The King Pin | ||||||
18 | FA ★ View from the Edge | ★ Gut | ||||
1984 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Savage Amusement | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Did it when it was 20
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1984 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Enfant Terrible - mit Kevin Lindorff, Mike Wust | 15m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1984 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Chocolate Barbarian - mit Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust | 15m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
14 | FA Fruit Loops and Frosties - mit Simon Gaye | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
I think this might have been Simon's first lead on a first ascent.
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18 | FA ★ Little Wonder - mit Simon Gaye | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
1984 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Yellow Wall | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Rough Justice - mit Brian B | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
1984 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Cathedral Rock The isolated pillar | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ Tontons Macoutes - mit Al S | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The Tontons Macoutes were the paramilitary hatchetmen of Haiti's dictator 'Papa Doc' Duvalier.
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1984 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Wallaby Wall & Slab City | ||||||
20 | FA ★ Bananas - mit Al | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
1984 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Perfect Match | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1983 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
23 | FA ★★★ Sundance - mit Chris Dale, John Lattanzio | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
The move past the bolt defeated me.
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1983 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ It's My Party - mit Mark Colyvan, P. Colyvan, P. Bayne, B. Birchall | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Developed falling off into an artform on this one.
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1982 - Kaputar | ||||||
Ningadhun | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Industrial Unrest - mit Kevin | 50m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1982 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | ||||
Felt very insecure on the crux.
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1982 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
22 | FA ★ The Promised Land - mit Kevin | 96m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
24 | FA ★★ The Millionaire Touch - mit Kevin and Paul | 100m | ||||
Tight rope seconding the crux!
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20 | FA ★ Spook Direct - mit Kevin | 77m | ★ Gut | |||
18 | FA ★★ The Real McCoy - mit Kevin | 85m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
20 | FA ★ Acid Test - mit Kevin | 65m | ★ Gut | |||
21 | FA ★★ Sang Froid - mit Kevin | 92m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fr 1. Mai 1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
21 | FA ★★★ The Recidivist Direct | 90m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
Ningadhun | ||||||
22 | FA ★★★ Blood Sports - mit Brian and Richard | 65m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
The first pitch was a bit freaky.
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18 | FA ★★ Classical Gas - mit Brian and Richard | 65m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
21 | FA ★★ Overexposed - mit Brian and Richard | 65m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
18 | FA Excentric - mit Richard Morris | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 | FA ★★ Comic Crack - mit Brian | 42m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Nice climbing up the blut arete.
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1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
16 | FA ★ Pooh, Red Disc Connection - mit Richard | 110m | ★ Gut | |||
22 | FA ★★ Gun Control - mit Richard | 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
1980 - Kaputar | ||||||
Ningadhun | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ A Jam for All Seasons - mit Mark | 63m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1980 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | FA ★★ Discord Direct - mit Direct finish | 25m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good to see this climb getting more ascents these days.
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1980 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Don't Eat the Daisies - mit Mark | 80m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1979 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 | FA ★ Katzenjammer Kraks | 60m | ||||
1979 - South-Eastern Grampians | ||||||
Mt Abrupt The Cheesecake | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Cracked | 72m | ||||
20 | FA ★ Shadow Road - mit as second | 82m | ★ Gut | |||
1979 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 | FA ★★ Freudian Slip - mit Brian and Jim N | 52m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
1979 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Smike - mit Brian | 83m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
21 | FA ★★ Bum Leeper - mit Jim | 93m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
FFA.
|