Routen in Oceania

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

Up as for step across gap but keep going straight up blunt arête. Reasonable toprope of the quick links

Feels damn hard. Same start as Love handles but kind of trend left on nothing holds and slopers instead of moving right to the crimps

Climb Chock-Stoned without using the chockstone as a foot. Quite hard

Off the top of the block leaning against the boulder.

Crossroads then diagonally right into KPDM then traverse the lip of the small roof to join Peregrine at its anchor.

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

Stand start from the obvious right hand crimp. Smear like a demon and throw to the lip.

Stand start from the rail in the middle of the cave. Follow the obvious line straight up through the middle of the cave to mantle the top.

The centre of the wall with all the huecos SS.chose hold carefully

Next line R of Dangerman, starts as a tips lay back and slowly opens up to thin hands. Another classic. Generally possible to lower off tat at the top of the first pitch, or continue as for Dangerman.

Project.

Sit start on the break and go straight up on some slopers / directional holds.

Right side of shattered arete.

Start: About 50m left of WOAAC. Right side of shattered arete.

Messy looking bolted route trends left at half way. An extended draw for the 3rd bolt will reduce drag. Climbs reasonably well.

classic warm up. start on big jug ledge and merrily up, trending left slightly to top out

Start as Wicked, traverse left through the steepness on pockets, top out the arete

1e in guide

That moment in a rock over where if you stall you end up 2 feet short of the hold. Cute little line left of MC. Start LH on slope rail, RH on good low hold then up via slopes crimps and slimps to Gaston into the scoop. Finish straight up.

Start both hands matched on central ridge of steep slab moving fight and up to stand on bloc.

Start from ledge to left of La Sancta Wall. Up corner then traverse left to arete and delicately up, traverse left to anchors.

Shares start then left of TBTH. Awkward start to line of carrots with some ring bolts towards the top.

Start 1.5m R of Why. Up past 2 small flakes to better flake then as for Why

Sit start on low sloping edge, following arete to the bouler's highpoint. Has turned into a popular test-piece at the grade

Left arete.

Short climb with a couple of nice technical moves.

Trending left onto the slab.

Project.

Best looking line at the crag. Get onto left rising diagonal into steep open book corner. Fixed belay above.

Really great and unique overhanging roof coffin. Sit-starts low on right hand pinch and left positive side-pull. Thug up left and and start slapping. Finishes on obvious big juggy break above the coffin.

On R side of face - big pull from horizontal to horizontal then up over top.

Link up. The natural antithesis of French Desire, climbed in large part because of the name.

Climbs Terminus of Desire's crux then traverses across the top of the shield (long slings on either side of the shield) to finish up the finale of The French Connection.

Sit start on obvious jug, then straight up to top out via ledge.

Same start as Fat Neck. Head slightly left and up into underclings, then follow jugs (and the bolts), jumping off when you get scared. The high chalked jug is the generally accepted finishing hold.

Start as for the 40 meter mile but head across Dr Pinocchio and finish up Overseer.

Strong stand start- up the twin seams, trending left to the vertical slot. Powerful pulls, to an airy mantle out.

Easy padding up the right side of the blunt arete.

Traverse the whole boulder (spraypainted boulder, home to The Dish and #s 14-18). Strenuous crimping/balance section, easy to fall off.

Can easily be spotted by the long, perfect corner just above the little rooflets. Follow your nose up the talus to get to the base of the chimney/gully of P1. Pitch lengths are updated from guide description to be more accurate.

1. 15, 20m - up the chimney, stepping around right before the offwidth to a ledge below corner crack.

2. 21, 20m - finger crack up to ledges under rooflets

3. 16, 25m - left around overhangs to end up in the base of the corner. Can be linked with p2 with a couple long slings.

4. 20, 50m - long, technical corner capped with a hand crack. Almost exactly 50m

5. easy to the top

Up the arete

Sit Start

Standing start straight up on nice holds and slopers for mantle.

Start on the triangle. Up to edges to finish. Classic. https://vimeo.com/120233539

Sit start and follow lip to mantel finish. Do not use the sidewall.

Sit start LH on a low sidepull crimp, and RH a little higher in an arching undercling feature. Move up to a good incut crimp and small edge and then to a good rail. Traverse the rail rightwards through the corner and finish as per #5 by stepping off in the elevated cave. Although the crux is technically over within the first few moves, you may want to at least have a look at the rest lest you find yourself in trouble once you've done the opening.

Climb the left side arete

Sit start under the roof at the obvious juggy ledge. Sit start at the obvious juggy ledge. Move up to flakes in the roof and left to mantle over the ledge.

(Make sure the head is protected from the rock behind by a pad or close hand)

Start on right hand side of boulder traverse left and mantle out on left hand side.

Line of old dodgy eye bolts up striking flake feature on detached block. Probably unclimbed, very hard at the top. Needs rebolting, new anchor bolts in place but no hangers.

The route directly up to the DBB in the middle of the wall, right of the flake up high. TR easily after doing pinch me I’m dreaming.

Starts under main roof on reasonable undercling (RH) and poorer undercling (LH). A very powerful 5-move problem. Pop LH to intermediate ‘breadloaf’ pinch, then big move out to the pocket on the lip (LH again) – catch the breadloaf as an intermediate (RH) – then up to jug in the Aftertaste traverse line and finish as for CHinese Nuggets. V8 as a crouchstart but take 9 points if you start seated on the lower holds.

4 metres right of hibernate under flake in roof. Up slab to steeper section of slab and tend left to anchors as for 'Just Right'.

Hard looking project! Start in the high horizontal seam, and move up via the vertical seam above

Sit start avoiding the low rock for feet. Up with jugs. A tad awkward.

Grade:VM

Grade: VM

Climb the bulgy slab from the detached stone.

Up the crimpy wall right of the arête, traditionally finishing on thejugs. Worthwhile.

Sit start on under-cling and up to flake. Sharp. Easier if you’re tall. Escape to boulder on the right. Up slab has gone – scary. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_3sWMMJe_w

using the sharp jug up and left of the obvious slopey crimp on the face earns you V5

Sit start on a low traverse of problem 'Moist Indiscretion'

On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge.