Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Creasta Cocoșului | |||||
5- | Cupa
| ||||
5- | După Colț
| ||||
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Munții Igniş Pietroasa Țancul Mic | |||||
5 | Ambitio | ||||
5 | Repetitio | ||||
5- | Sui Generis | ||||
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Munții Igniş Pietroasa Poligonul Mic | |||||
5 | Vertical | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Drogheria | |||||
{FR} 4b | ★★ Ospen
Erschliesser: Nicolae Durnac, 2019 | 15m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Pietrele Doamnei Piatra Mare | |||||
5- A0 RUS:3A | ★★ Traseul Clasic
Opened up as a 4-pitch route in a period where the grade meant it should be doable on a single 40m rope, was rebolted as a 2-pitch route with fully bolted belays and some bolts on the first pitch where the rock allows it. The old piton belays are still there, and there's also a slightly off-route abseil station (on 2 bolts and a chain) that can trick you into thinking it's a belay. Route mostly follows the edge of the L-shaped rock tower it's climbing on. Traverses a lot, especially on p2, so bring extendables and a couple of 120cm slings or rope drag will be a problem. In situ pro is S2 but the unprotected bits are super easy climbing; feel free to bring some mobiles if you want to, though. Beware of friable rocks - it's not that bad, over all, especially on p1, but any rocks you dislodge on the first 1 1/2 pitches will head straight at the helmetless tourist crowd filming you with their phones The first pitch (about 45-50m) is easy slab (3 UIAA) starting from the tourist trail and going up on the right side of the rockface on a mix of pitons and bolts. After the first 20m of the route(initial pitch 1) you hit a grassy band. The bolted belay will be visible straight above, but that's a harder line (5-) and I'm not sure whether there are any bolts on it so head on the original line, rightwards following the grassy steps, before you traverse back left towards the belay. Pitch 2 (15-20m of vertical but closer to 40m rope length on account of all the traverses) is more friable and less bolted. Start with reversing the traverse for 2m up to some grassy steps (2-3 UIAA) and climb for about 5 unprotected meters up to the piton belay for the original p2 (I believe it would have skipped the traverse and headed directly up on the grassy steps). Then traverse left for ~10m up to the base of the upper part of the tower (original pitch 3, 2 UIAA) and reach the crux of the route, a UIAA 4+/5- 5m vertical dihedral on friable holds. After you're out of it, head rightwards - you'll see a 2-bolt-and-a-chain rappel station under a small ceiling above, with an arrow pointing right. Not really worth using this as a belay since you have a few more meters to the top. If you're heading right, don't use the station at all (unless you have like, a 240cm sling) or you'll get the rope too close to a bunch of loose boulders on the ceiling above. There's a piton to the right, and then you climb on grass steps to the top, where there's a belay station on many old pitons tied together with 8mm rope. There is also a version on the left of the rappel station, which we didn't take (worse rope drag, our leader said) so will be described later. Retreat can be done on the route line (messy) or on 2 bolted rappels (single 60m) or 1 (single 70m or doubles) slightly rightwards to the saddle between the rocks, plus downclimbing a UIAA 1-2 gully towards Rarau peak. If doing it as a single rap, beware the loose boulders on the lip of the ceiling, since there isn't a lot of room for the people already down in the saddle to dodge them if they're waiting there for you - double rap to the intermediary station gets you out of the fall line until everyone is past the worst terrain. Erstbegehung: Roland Welkens & Ionel Coman, 1961 Sanierung: Voicu Raia, Florian Mastacan & Nicolae Durnac, 2003 | 78m, 2, 15 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Pietrele Doamnei Umărul Pietrei Mari | |||||
{FR} 4c | ★★ Drumul Inginerilor
Erschliesser: Gabriel Lipşa & Florian Mastacan, 2003 | 22m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Peretele Coteţului | |||||
{FR} 4b | ★★ Party-tura
Erschliesser: Nicolae Durnac, 2015 | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Trasee izolate | |||||
5 RUS:2B | Peretele nordic al Porţilor Închise
| 3 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 1 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4/4+ | unknown | 8m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 3 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | unknown 2 | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 9 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:3+/4 | Tutunu Românesc | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 10 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | Bebeluşu’ | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 29 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:3+/4 | Şopârla | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector A Superior Bloc 1 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | Jucărica | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector B Inferior Bloc 1 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | Rabbit Hole | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Borsecului Faleza Ursului Sector A | |||||
{FR} 4c/c+ | Titu Fox
Erschliesser: Florin-Ciprian Andrecut, 2009 | 8m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Borsecului Faleza Ursului Sector B | |||||
{FR} 4c/c+ | Gemin
Erschliesser: Simon Istvan, 2018 | 12m | |||
{FR} 4c/c+ | Little Twin
Erschliesser: Simon Istvan, 2018 | 12m | |||
{FR} 4c/c+ | High Hopes
Erschliesser: Simon Istvan, 2018 | 12m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Borsecului Faleza Ursului Sector D | |||||
{FR} 4c/c+ | Sunlight
Erschliesser: Ciprian Andrecut | 10m | |||
{FR} 4c/c+ | Ocsident
Erschliesser: Ciprian Andrecut | 10m | |||
{FR} 4c/c+ | Lizzard Land
Erschliesser: Ciprian Andrecut | 10m | |||
{FR} 4c/c+ | ★ Hallow Wish
Erschliesser: Ciprian Andrecut | 10m, 3 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Suhardul Mic | |||||
5 A1 RUS:3B | Hornul Roşu
Erstbegehung: Matei Schenn & Emilian Cristea, 1956 Erschliesser: 2005 | 5 | |||
5 A1 RUS:3B | Faţa Mare din Hornul Roşu
Erstbegehung: Matei Schenn & Emilian Cristea, 1956 | 6 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Harghita Faleza Csiba | |||||
5 | Tawasentha | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Oituz Faţa Sufletului | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | No Hands | ||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | White Horse | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Oituz Diedraşul | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | Promenada | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Oituz 101.6 FM | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:4 | Mărăşti | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Cheile Vârghişului Kőcsűr - Șura de piatră | |||||
5 | ★★ Trón szék | 30m | |||
Banat Sviniţa El Banát | |||||
5 | Srbský kout
| 23m, 6 | |||
Banat Sviniţa La Bamboo | |||||
5 | ★ Eibenthalská
| 27m, 6 | |||
Banat Sviniţa Flag Tower | |||||
5 | ★ Jihovýchodní hrana
| 12m, 4 | |||
5- | ★ Spárová varianta
| 12m, 4 | |||
5 | ★ Zmijová
| 12m, 3 | |||
Banat Lipova-Radna Peretele Apostolii | |||||
5 | Philippus | 25m | |||
5- | Jacobus A. | 20m | |||
5 | Andreas | 20m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Vadu Crişului Peretele La Ruine | |||||
5- | Utopia | 2, 5 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Vadu Crişului Creasta Șerpilor | |||||
5 | Șopârla | 25m | |||
5 | Yang | 25m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Vadu Crişului Peretele Peșterii Peretele Peşterii 2 | |||||
5 | Bal Kíntorna (Chinuitorul 2.) | 20m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Vadu Crişului Peștera Caprei | |||||
5 | ★★★ Diedrul Mic | 15m | |||
5 | Baby | 12m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Vadu Crişului Terasele Inferioare | |||||
5 | ★ Traseul Fetelor | 4 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Vadu Crişului Terasele superioare | |||||
5 | ★ The End | 10m | |||
5 | Concurs | 12m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Bulz Ţancul Găurit | |||||
5 | Agricola | 25m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Bulz Coasta Rea | |||||
5 | Prieteniei | ||||
Apuseni Mountains Peștera Osoi Faleza Osoi | |||||
5- | Loli Pop
| ||||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Amfiteatrul Portalul Amfiteatrului | |||||
5 | ★ Humus | 10m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Placa | |||||
5- | Lisa my love | 8m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Peretele Brânei | |||||
5 | Tavanul | 15m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Sub Brână | |||||
5- | Școala Tureană
Erschliesser: Adrian Munteanu & Cosmin Poduţ, 1994 Sanierung: Nicolae Budeancă, Jan 2022 | 2 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Zona Ţancurilor Ţancul Mare | |||||
5 | Prieteniei | 60m, 2 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Zona Ţancurilor Ţancul Geamăn Stâng | |||||
5 | Traseu 1 | 20m | |||
5 | Traseu 2 | ||||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Zona Ţancurilor Peretele Ascuns | |||||
5 | ★ Codruț | 30m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turenilor Zona Ţancurilor Ţancul Fetelor | |||||
5 | ★★ Fetelor | 20m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Podul II | |||||
5- | ★★★ Zâna nebună
Erschliesser: Nicolae Budeancă | 12m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Turnul Galben | |||||
5 | Regina Maria (Ra)
| 30m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii La Circ și Papagal | |||||
5 | ★ Circ
| 11m | |||
5 | Secera
| 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Varianta
| 18m | |||
5 | ★★ Papagal
| 15m | |||
5-/5 | F.N
| 20m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Izolare | |||||
5 | Piesa 1
| 18m | |||
5 | Piesa 7
| 26m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Peretele Uriaş | |||||
5 - 7 A1 RUS:5B | Quo Vadis
| 6 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Poligonul Unguresc | |||||
5 | Barát
| ||||
5 | Lopățelu'
| ||||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Creasta Cocoșului - Școala clujeană | |||||
5 RUS:3A | Creasta Cocoșului
| 3 | |||
5 | Şcoala Clujeană
| 20m | |||
5 | Şcoala Clujeană - Variantă 2
| 21m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Narcisa | |||||
5 | Bulbuci
| 30m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Zona Gabor Feri | |||||
5- A0 RUS:2A | Concurs
| 51m, 2 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Zona Moara Petridului | |||||
5 | ★★ Baloo
| 15m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Colțul Crăpat ATA 2007 | |||||
5 | Gemenii I
| 7m | |||
5 | Gemenii II
| 7m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Poliţele lui Bieltz Mario | |||||
5 | Eu nu, ăăă, încurajez
Erschliesser: Nicolae Budeancă, 2023 | 17m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Turzii Peştera Ungurească | |||||
5 | ★★ Rostaş
A nice line that's a little. bit harder than Tinu Ceave. Erschliesser: Adrian Munteanu & Ovidiu Pop, 2002 | 15m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Rimetea Coada Pietrei Sector 3 | |||||
5 | ★★ Bebe
| 22m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Rimetea Coada Pietrei Sector 6 | |||||
5 | ★★ Muchia Tisei
Erstbegehung: Munteanu Adrian & Jozsa L., 2005 | 40m, 2 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Rimetea Coada Pietrei Sector 7 | |||||
5 | ★★ Tufa
Erstbegehung: Munteanu Adrian & Stoian C., 2005 | 15m | |||
5 | Șopârlanu
Erschliesser: Schuster Siegfried, 2005 | 15m, 2 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Rimetea Coada Pietrei Sector 8 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Trei găleți
Erschliesser: Apostu Lucian & Camelia Langa, 2023 | 12m, 4 | |||
5- | Vadra
| 15m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Rimetea Gura Văii Mari | |||||
5 | FN 1
Erschliesser: Adrian Munteanu, Apr 2024 | 19m, 7 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Rimetea Marele Amfiteatru Pereţii de Jos | |||||
5- | Otită
| 12m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Rimetea Pintenul | |||||
5 | Feudalu
| 27m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Aiudului Colţul Cetăţii Sector A | |||||
5 A0 RUS:4A | ★★★ Creasta Sudică | 5 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Aiudului Colţul Cetăţii Sector C | |||||
5 RUS:4A | Vidruţ | 2 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Aiudului Colţul Cetăţii Poligonul Vechi | |||||
5 | ★★ Mumf | 20m | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Aiudului Colțul Diacului | |||||
5- RUS:3B | Hornul cu Spini | 3 | |||
5- RUS:2A | Creasta Aiudenilor | 3 | |||
Apuseni Mountains Cheile Aiudului Colţul Data | |||||
5 RUS:4A | Eliberării | 4 |