Route in Pumping Gibbon

Scramble up the short wall to a grassy ledge, left of 'Red Corner'. Start at the left of 2 short recesses.

1. [13] 20m

   Climb the left-hand recess until it is possible to move into the right hand recess. Follow this to a ledge and move right to where a higher traverse line can be reached (old piton in place). Traverse left and climb a bulge to a ledge.

2. 18m 19 Ascend the wall above and gain the bottomless corner crack. Climb this through a small overhang, above which elephant's ears lead to a mantelshelf out on the left. Belay on this small stance.

3. 20m 17 Scramble over the belayer and climb up to the overhang, then traverse right below this. Finish up the last few meters of RED CORNER.

Note:

The lack of good gear at the 2nd stance will most likely convince you to merge pitches 2 & 3.

Variation:

Originally a 3m traverse right was made at the height of the mantelshelf on pitch 2, to the obvious ledge (20). From there, a grade 15 move was done to join the right-traverse below the large roof.

3a. 22m 20,A2 (The Monkey Puzzle pitch) From the small belay ledge make an awkward move up over the bulge. Move up and right passing just to the left of a big block. Climb straight up to reach the jam crack at the base of the roof. (Piton protection on wall due to loose rock) Traverse left under the roof until in a position to layback up its side. Move right and gain a position on the ledge (strenuous). Use 2 aid points to move to the lip of the overhang where a pull-up enables one to stand on the horn. Scrambling leads to a stance. (May 1982 N. Cleaver and A. Wood.)