Eagles Folly was the first rock climbing route in 'Montagu' and is a classic that must be done.
It is called Eagle's Folly because the leader of the opening party had to climb over a nest in the chimney (of the 2nd last pitch) and there was a young bird there and it squawked and squawked and then took off between his legs for what was probably it's first flight...! The nest was still there (abandoned) when he repeated it a few years ago.
Don't underestimate the amount of time to climb this route, parties have been caught out in the dark! On the other hand it has been climbed car to car in 4 hours. The walk up usually takes about 45' to 1 hour. An early start is advisable in Summer to avoid the heat. There is no water along the way.
A standard trad rack is required, a #4 Camalot is useful but not necessary. Most pitches are +-50 meters, so 50m ropes are fine.
It is advisable to take a pair of walking shoes on the route for walking down. Long pants are also advisable. The descent is very obvious, once on top, follow your nose to the far side of the mountain and then hang left on easy terrain till you get to the large descent gully.
The route follows the prominent central arête leading to the highest point in the area.
1971 | Erstbegehung: Greg Moseley & Brian de Villiers |
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12,13,16,12,17,15,13 | Schwierigkeitsgrad |
★★★Cormac Tooze | |
16 | Russell Warren |
To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.
Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/
Gesamtqualität 70 aus 5 Bewertungen.
Basiert auf 1 Bewertungen.
Autor(en): Tony Lourens
Datum: 2022
ISBN: 9780620995696
A definitive guidebook covering all the sport and trad climbing found throughout the whole of the Montagu area, describing over 700 routes across a wide range of grades.
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