★★ Chain Rattling Baboon Parlour 18

Start: Just Left of Dangerous Liaison's corner

1. Climb up to a ledge then go leftwards, passing a pillar to gain a short corner. Follow this, then go diagonally left to a ledge.

2. Traverse 3m right then pull through the overhang. Go straight up through the next overhang to a ledge on the left.

3. Climb diagonally leftwards around the overhang, then up 3m before going diagonally rightwards and through a short wide crack that splits two big blocks. Stance on the blocks.

4. Climb right, around the overhang (as for Pyramid Scheme) but from the ledge above continue up slightly rightwards past a left-facing corner to a ledge.

5. Move up to the left of the lowest part of the roof then go straight up past the right hand end of the main roof to the top.

Rooiberg is a trad and sport area, with plenty potential for single- and multipitch (up to 120 m high) sport and trad routes. Please take note that although bolting is permitted here, let the owners know that you would like to bolt and fill in the ‘new routes’ book. Also have the courtesy to check that your bolting project is not an existing trad line. Please also try and put top anchors on your single-pitch trad routes to facilitate descents.