Routen in Granite

Follow the approach route following the base of the wall until reach a small cave with a small metal plate sign. From there keep going up in a vague path through the bushes until reach a wall with 3 big cracks on it. The one to the right is Millions. the small one with a few grassy bushes growing out of it is Silloette crack (the middle one does not look good for climbing). This is a good route full of protection and nice and easy moves.

1. Climb the small crack all the way up and smear up after the crack starts to turn back down. Build your anchor at some big blocks at the top.

Climb the obvious crack that starts vertical and bends to become almost horizontal. Once you see a thin crack coming from the ground meeting the big crack you will be climbing, pull up and smear to another crack (that is the end of Silloette crack). Make your way to some big blocks in order to build your anchor.

Glue-in lower-offs added and some glue-in anchors.

or 25 R free

This route is a great one to practice unusual trad skills. Starts with a perfect sequence of chicken wing off-width, changes to hand jams, a roof and some smearing. Really fun! Starts 4 meters left of Gwilym's rest where there is a small plaque on the wall.

1. Left of a big tree there is a groove. Climb it all the way to the roof and over it until able to see a palm tree. Climb to the palm tree and go slightly right and up to belay from a big corner above the tree.

2. Climb the obvious easy but beautiful open book to the bolted anchors. A 50m rappel brings you back to the base of the route.

Start as for Huguenot Wall.

1. Climb the leaning blocky pillar, the move left to a vague crack/depression about 1.5 metres left of the main crack. Stem up the seam to reach the left side of the leaning flake.

2. Climb up the easy slab to a stance among boulders on an earthy ledge. Walk off to the left and down Descent Gully.

Classic easy route on Lion's head granite.

Start at the obvious leaning pillar 5 metres right of Gwilym's Rest.

1. Climb the leaning pillar and continue up the crack to a big leaning flake. Traverse right below the flake and then up onto a narrow ledge. Move right to a bolted stance.

2. Climb the crack to the right of the bolts and continue slightly left up an easy slab, then over some blocks on an earthy ledge. Climb a short, knobbly face to belay from a good ledge below a prominent right-facing layback. One can scramble off left at this point.

3. Layback up the corner and step left at the top. Climb onto a razor-thin flake and, stepping right, continue up the face above, aiming for a thin, exfoliating flake. Above and slightly left of this, a very thin crack up a smooth friction face takes you to a ledge in a depression at the top of the route.

Alternate start or single pitch to chains. Not a lot of pro.

Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the 'Huguenot Wall (Variation)' , directly to the bolted stance. There is no pro.

As for Huguenot wall.

1. Climb the forked crack to an incut ledge. Walk about 10 meters to a face and climb the face to a bolted anchor.

2. Climb the face to a crack that splits the wall in two just above you. Climb the crack an up to another bolted anchor. Two 30 meters abseil take you back to the ground.

Granite classic! Glue-in lower-off's at the finish.

1. Climb the crack just by the side of a groove that widens to a flary chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and head to the top of the second huge poised flake near a tree where one can build an anchor.

2. Climb the face on the right of the groove all the way up until able to walk across to a tree. Belay from the tree or 4 meters up to use the bolts of a sport route. One abseil of 60m will take you back to the base of the route.

Climb the parallel crack right of 'Cross Cracks'

1. [15] 35m

   Climb the crack till you get the large flake/s on the left. Belay at the bittersweet cherry tree.

2. [17R] 30m

   Climb up and right to the corner, there is a piton in the continuation of the crack you climbed on P1. Traverse diagonally down right to an incredible crystal cubby hole. Clip the bolt above and find your way to the tree or rap station beyond.

1. [17R] 40m

   Climb the face on the right of 'Cross Cracks' aiming for 2 blind cracks,once at these they take marginal protection. When possible move to the crack of 'Scary crack', climb this for a bit and then stance above the flake/s. The bittersweet cherry tree makes a good belay.

2. [17] 35m

   Climb up and right to the corner, there is a piton in the continuation of the crack of 'Scary Crack'. Climb the blunt arete and the curving feature to access the pine tree/ rap point.

This is one of the first routes you can access from the approach hike. It starts in a groove/chimney one meter to the right of a medium size tree that is growing inside a small crack.

Climb the groove/crack to another crack all the way to the top. The decent is through a tight chimney to your left that is easier than it looks.

Climb to the left or to the right of the pillar. Bridge and jam your way up until able to start smearing up to the top.

Start a few meters right of Knuckleduster. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious.

A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the glue-in lower-off's.

Can just be done in one pitch with a 50m rope.

Climb the obvious crack on the North aspect of the boulder

Climb the obvious crack on the Southern aspect of the boulder