Begehungen in Ayagaures

Al principio puede resultar psicológico

I decided to lead the route today after a successful top rope yesterday with Jorge’s guidance. Unfortunately, I got stuck at the crux, which is at the last second bolt. The fear of falling really got me. Instead of quickly moving up to find a relatively better position for clipping the quickdraw and the rope, I froze my arms and hands in a bad position and filled my head with falling anxiety. But of course, I had no choice, but to let me go. As usual, the fall was comfortable. Thanks Monkey for the perfect soft catch. After 3 more failed attempts with great fatigue, I had to rappel and left an open carabiner on the last 3rd bolt. I now had a new admiration for Jorge’s confident ascent. If one toproped this route and considered it easier than 7+, then try to lead it without placing quickdraws in advance, it might become strikingly hard unless you are so getting used to falling 3m above the quickdraw below you. Even I knew the fear was irrational after 7 6m+ falls during the last 3 days, I still can't feel at ease. After all, I’m not Alex Honald.

Recommended and guided by a local climbing legend Jorge from Oceanus Climbing. Mega interesting long route, about 25m, that won’t bore you in any minute.

The left side of the first part was flakey but the right part is generally safe. But Jorge spent some good amounts of time to fix the route after our climbing by knocking down those loose holds and coating those solid holds with epoxy resins for protection. Muchas gracias 🙏

Mega classic.

Nice route for warm-ups and makes everyone happy 😊

I finalement sent this route during today’s climbing session. I used the beta that I described during my first top rope attempt. That is, stay largely on the rock face where all the bolts are; at the point of 2/3 of the route, climb on the left side for 1,5 quickdraw distance, then a hairy traverse to the right.

Doesn't feel 7b. Locals grade it 7a/+. Almost went on the flash, but chickened out on the awkward sloppy/niche section at the top. Went second go without many difficulties. There are way too many no hands rests.

Soft, but magnificent.

The only 7a I've tried here that feels 7a. Tough endurance sequence.

Since this would be my first attempt of a 7a at this crag, I decided to top-rope it first to test the water. I did so by climbing up the route on its right first and then clipped my rope to the top of this route.

Now about the attempt, until I reached the last second quick-draw, everything was fairly fluid. I climbed mostly on the nose of the cliff, where I found most of the chalk marks. This ended after I passed the last second quickdraw. I had to use some small ledges to traverse to the right where I saw a big hole to place my right foot. Then I continued from the fissure on the right by using the Dülfer technique and passed the last quickdraw and continue to the top.

If one climbing more or less straight up by following the bolts, then it qualifies a 6b, especially the second part. But you can also get around the difficult parts by going more to the left. That said, even if you follow the bolts, nothing is physical. The holds are just in the right distances.

Really nicely paced route. If you observe well the holds, especially for the feet, nothing would be physical on the way.

It was recommended by a local climber. Indeed very classic. I got stuck at one part, which I believe was the crux. Thankfully my belayer noticed a small foot hold that I didn’t see from the top, which was the key.

A classical dièdre route. Flows nicely.

A nice technical route.

Nice and smooth. Perfect for warmups.