Routen in Sa Gubia

Steep on great quality broccoli flowstone and grey rock. As of April 2018 some bolts seem corroded while others seem fine. Originally graded 6b (sandbag).

New bolts on the cave arete, between "Decadencia Corporal" and "Comechochos".

P2 rusted bolts 😬

Through the middle of the cave, all the way into the top. Shares1st pitch with "Comechochos". Was 5, upgraded to 6a in 2020 Rockfax, but it's 5c.

Technical climbing on sharp grey rock below and above the big tufa. The popular first pitch has 12 bolts. 60m rope works (knot!).

New silvern bolts between "Vol de Nuit" and "Tía Melis".

4th pitch bolted, grade?

New silvern bolts right of "Guatón".

1. 6a. Head rightwards past a tree.

2. 5c. Climb the wall to a corner and belay above.

3. 5c. The wall direct to a belay.

4. 6a. Traverse left past a corner and climb a wall to a belay at a tree. A variation on the right is 7a.

5. 5c. Climb up left and then back right and up to a belay.

6. 5c. A long pitch up walls and bulges to a belay on the arete.

7. 5c. Climb to the top. Descent - Follow the descent as for Albahida.

Incorrect pitch lengths, longest pitch 55m, so double rope required for abseiling.

Variation pitch right of pitch 2 of La ley del deseo

Pitch 1 same as "The Master"

Pitch 1 same as "The Master"

Alternative 1st pitch of "The Master"

P1 Also called "Mami Blu".

Direct version of pitch 1 of "Vía de los bomberos"

6x35 abseil

[rope technique/ safety] The equippers probably intended a "plus-clip" above the first stance, because the first bolt of pitch two is quite far away.

Left of 'Placa Aspera'

Long technical slab on small ledges without distinct crux. Bolts are a bit spaced.

Line of bolts right of 'Placa aspera' (right-hand line on the wall). Sustained and excellent.

Appears new as of September 2016; grade is approximate.

Excellent climbing directly left of the Gubia elephant. Easy up the initial wall and tufas, then an interesting start to and through the roof as well as a hard move past it. The first bolt in the roof is a bit awkward to clip.

Pitch 2 of "Moca de pavo"

P4 anchor can be skipped via a variant - new bolts directly under P5 corner

Runout.