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Eintrag
Sadernes

Sadernes is a very little town (in fact, it's just a big house and a church), situated on the entrance of a gorge, (Llierca river), that cuts some calcareous rock layers, creating an amazing landscape of water and rock.

Parking reservation:
(Effective 2022) The park now imposes a vehicle restriction between March-November. You will need to make a parking reservation ahead of time (5,56EUR per vehicle).

Reservation site: https://altagarrotxa.org/normatives/regulacions-activitats/

Pont del Llierca

A 15-20m high limestone cliff towering above the riverbed with 11 bolted routs. The crag is not visited often, and some anchors are just a single bolt or a chain around a tree, but the climbing is of good quality. Mainly vertical wall, with crimps and cracks. Good crag for climbing in the summer morning, with shade until after lunch time with a nice breeze through the river gorge.

Pont del Llierca
6b+ Biplà arete

Climb the bolts of Biplà on the left using the arete. Not in the guidebook but a really cool exposed climb. !Anchor is single bolt with small steel locking carabiner

6a+ Biplà

!Anchor is single bolt with small steel locking carabiner

6a+ Escarola

!Anchor is single bolt with small steel locking carabiner

6a La gran duna
6a+ Scadel ventura

!Anchor is metal wires around tree with steel locking carabiner

6a+ Go... Go... Gorila

!Anchor is metal wires around tree with steel locking carabiner

6b Escalador microcoscos

Start under the small overhang and move left and up

6a+ Estirp de titans

Start under the small overhang and move up

5c La nimfa de sadernes
6a La nimfa de neda
6a Zeppelin
6a Si vols una grua, truca'm
Pont dels Aures
Pont dels Aures
3 noname1

Gets f3 in the guidebook but is really at most a f2 for children without the first move to climb from the riverbed, which is a f4 move

3 noname2

Gets f3+ in the guidebook but is really at most a f2 for children without the first move to climb from the riverbed, which is a f4 move

3 noname3

Gets f3 in the guidebook

3 noname4
5a Avril
5a Cram cram

Hardest moves are the first couple meters, then a f2.

5a Bruc

Hardest moves are the first couple meters, then a f2.

5b Cuc de terra
5c+ Esquirol

Quite nice climbing. Start is on slippery rock. Gets f5 in the guidebook

Segona Proposta

Sector de escalada técnica sobre placas de cuarto y quinto grado

Segona Proposta
4 L'irongrau
5+ Placa placa
4+ Marac Cram
5+ Sodoma i Garrotxa
5 Marac Al·lag
6a Segona Proposta
7a+ Mariona
6a+ Júlia
Mainada

Easy routes on very comfortable slab. Good for kids.

Mainada
4c L'ajeguda
5c Mirall impenetrable
4 Via de la Sàlvia
3a Noname

Climb rock left of Baldufa

3b Baldufa
3c Motivades 100%
2 Gat noir

The diagonal. Gets f3 in guidebook but so easy it can be run up or climbed without hands

4b Trenkaclosques
4a Tikis mikis
3a Esperó del mikis

Slightly harder variation of Espero dels barrufets by finishing left at the anchor of Tikis mikis

2 Esperó dels barrufets
2 Noname 2

Route directly left of the road

4a Noname 3

Slightly steeper but shorter slab on right side of the road

primer
primer
6b Qui vulgui peix...
7b Nocturnal
6c+/7a la primera
7c Weissbier
8a Hefe Weissbier
Castell s'espasa (pista)
Castell s'espasa (pista)
4b l'escorpí
4c variant-escorpi
5b de l'arbre
6a+ la vidua negra
6c La foca del sofà

L1: 6a 25m; L2: 6c 20m

7a aqui terra deixo el jec

L1: 6a+ 25m; L2: 7a 20m

5c l'escaliptxo
5c el centpeus
6a+ llorenç, les ulleres on les tens
6b+ Poques vies massa Xaves
6c+ olga
Castell s'Espasa (esquerra superior)
Castell s'Espasa (esquerra superior)
4c Uh! Oh! No tinc por!
4c La via d'en Korbi
5 Tots som Pop’s
5+ cul de got
6c la guerra del nap
7a nautilus
6c+ transatlàntic
6a+ variant-transatlàntic
6a escletxa de tendresa
6a Pornomania
6a+ no "e pa re"
6b+ el perfum de les transparències
6b aresta
5+ Diedre

Sobada

6c+ eva
6b+ fa de mal dir

L1: 6a+ 18m; L2: 6b+ 18m

7a+ La nostra
6a+ boogs teni
7b+ escadel aventura
Castell s'Espasa (dreta superior)
Castell s'Espasa (dreta superior)
5b Infinitaun

L1: f5 12b; L2: f5 8b

5c ?
5c serveis mínims

L1: 5b 20m 11b; L2: 5c 18m 9b

6a Sopa variation

Start up Sopa de pedra and move left to join L1 of Serveis mínims

6a+ sopa de pedra
6b+ la puça
6c rampa que t'inclines
6c+ mi lindo gatito

L1: 6c+ 26m 12b; L2: 6a+ 18m 7b

7b+ la machine

L1: 7b+, 30m, 14b; L2: 6a+, 20m, 9b

7a+ calandra
7a ladilla
7a El cant de la cigala
7a+ El ball de la cigala
6c liendre

L1: 6b, 25m, 10b; L2: 6c, 23m, 10b

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