Eintrag |
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Sadernes
Sadernes is a very little town (in fact, it's just a big house and a church), situated on the entrance of a gorge, (Llierca river), that cuts some calcareous rock layers, creating an amazing landscape of water and rock.
Reservation site: https://altagarrotxa.org/normatives/regulacions-activitats/ |
Pont del Llierca
A 15-20m high limestone cliff towering above the riverbed with 11 bolted routs. The crag is not visited often, and some anchors are just a single bolt or a chain around a tree, but the climbing is of good quality. Mainly vertical wall, with crimps and cracks. Good crag for climbing in the summer morning, with shade until after lunch time with a nice breeze through the river gorge. |
Pont del Llierca |
6b+
★★ Biplà arete
Climb the bolts of Biplà on the left using the arete. Not in the guidebook but a really cool exposed climb. !Anchor is single bolt with small steel locking carabiner |
6a+
Biplà
!Anchor is single bolt with small steel locking carabiner |
6a+
★ Escarola
!Anchor is single bolt with small steel locking carabiner |
6a ★★ La gran duna |
6a+
★ Scadel ventura
!Anchor is metal wires around tree with steel locking carabiner |
6a+
★ Go... Go... Gorila
!Anchor is metal wires around tree with steel locking carabiner |
6b
Escalador microcoscos
Start under the small overhang and move left and up |
6a+
Estirp de titans
Start under the small overhang and move up |
5c La nimfa de sadernes |
6a La nimfa de neda |
6a Zeppelin |
6a Si vols una grua, truca'm |
Pont dels Aures |
Pont dels Aures |
3
noname1
Gets f3 in the guidebook but is really at most a f2 for children without the first move to climb from the riverbed, which is a f4 move |
3
noname2
Gets f3+ in the guidebook but is really at most a f2 for children without the first move to climb from the riverbed, which is a f4 move |
3
noname3
Gets f3 in the guidebook |
3 noname4 |
5a Avril |
5a
Cram cram
Hardest moves are the first couple meters, then a f2. |
5a
Bruc
Hardest moves are the first couple meters, then a f2. |
5b Cuc de terra |
5c+
★★ Esquirol
Quite nice climbing. Start is on slippery rock. Gets f5 in the guidebook |
Segona Proposta
Sector de escalada técnica sobre placas de cuarto y quinto grado |
Segona Proposta |
4 ★★ L'irongrau |
5+ ★★ Placa placa |
4+ ★★ Marac Cram |
5+ ★ Sodoma i Garrotxa |
5 ★★ Marac Al·lag |
6a ★★★ Segona Proposta |
7a+ Mariona |
6a+ ★ Júlia |
Mainada
Easy routes on very comfortable slab. Good for kids. |
Mainada |
4c L'ajeguda |
5c Mirall impenetrable |
4 Via de la Sàlvia |
3a
Noname
Climb rock left of Baldufa |
3b ★★ Baldufa |
3c ★★ Motivades 100% |
2
★★ Gat noir
The diagonal. Gets f3 in guidebook but so easy it can be run up or climbed without hands |
4b ★★ Trenkaclosques |
4a ★★ Tikis mikis |
3a
Esperó del mikis
Slightly harder variation of Espero dels barrufets by finishing left at the anchor of Tikis mikis |
2 Esperó dels barrufets |
2
Noname 2
Route directly left of the road |
4a
★★ Noname 3
Slightly steeper but shorter slab on right side of the road |
primer |
primer |
6b Qui vulgui peix... |
7b Nocturnal |
6c+/7a ★★ la primera |
7c Weissbier |
8a Hefe Weissbier |
Castell s'espasa (pista) |
Castell s'espasa (pista) |
4b ★ l'escorpí |
4c ★ variant-escorpi |
5b ★ de l'arbre |
6a+ ★ la vidua negra |
6c
★ La foca del sofà
L1: 6a 25m; L2: 6c 20m |
7a
aqui terra deixo el jec
L1: 6a+ 25m; L2: 7a 20m |
5c ★ l'escaliptxo |
5c ★ el centpeus |
6a+ ★ llorenç, les ulleres on les tens |
6b+ ★ Poques vies massa Xaves |
6c+ olga |
Castell s'Espasa (esquerra superior) |
Castell s'Espasa (esquerra superior) |
4c ★ Uh! Oh! No tinc por! |
4c ★★ La via d'en Korbi |
5 ★★ Tots som Pop’s |
5+ ★★ cul de got |
6c ★ la guerra del nap |
7a ★★ nautilus |
6c+ ★★ transatlàntic |
6a+ ★ variant-transatlàntic |
6a ★★ escletxa de tendresa |
6a ★★ Pornomania |
6a+ ★★★ no "e pa re" |
6b+ ★★★ el perfum de les transparències |
6b ★ aresta |
5+
★ Diedre
Sobada |
6c+ ★★ eva |
6b+
fa de mal dir
L1: 6a+ 18m; L2: 6b+ 18m |
7a+ ★★★ La nostra |
6a+ boogs teni |
7b+ escadel aventura |
Castell s'Espasa (dreta superior) |
Castell s'Espasa (dreta superior) |
5b
★ Infinitaun
L1: f5 12b; L2: f5 8b |
5c ★★ ? |
5c
★★ serveis mínims
L1: 5b 20m 11b; L2: 5c 18m 9b |
6a
★★ Sopa variation
Start up Sopa de pedra and move left to join L1 of Serveis mínims |
6a+ ★★ sopa de pedra |
6b+ ★★ la puça |
6c ★ rampa que t'inclines |
6c+
★ mi lindo gatito
L1: 6c+ 26m 12b; L2: 6a+ 18m 7b |
7b+
★★ la machine
L1: 7b+, 30m, 14b; L2: 6a+, 20m, 9b |
7a+ ★★ calandra |
7a ★★★ ladilla |
7a El cant de la cigala |
7a+ ★★ El ball de la cigala |
6c
★★ liendre
L1: 6b, 25m, 10b; L2: 6c, 23m, 10b |