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Routen in Gritstoneberget

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Zeigt alle 25 Routen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Beliebtheit Gebiet
Unbekanntes Jahr
{FR} 5+ Skorpionen
Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6c Himmel blå

Bolt replaced 2022.

Erstbegehung: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber

Gemischt trad 15m, 1 Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b Tvivelaktiga tendenser

Erstbegehung: Choe Brooks & Jan Liliemark

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 5b Den joggande myran

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

Erstbegehung: Rikard Hedman & Lars Svadängs

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b+ Examen

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

Erstbegehung: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

Gemischt trad 15m, 2 Gritstoneberget
{FR} 4a Amandas lov

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

Erstbegehung: Lars Grankvist & Lars Johansson

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b+ Jinx

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old (potentially / probably not safe) bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

Erstbegehung: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

Gemischt trad 16m, 2 Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b Urkki

Erstbegehung: Petri Lintinen

Gemischt trad 14m, 1 Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b Svettiga grisen

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

Erstbegehung: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{US} FR:6b Tveksamma Skorpionen

First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b+ Svettiga grisen (variation)

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

Erstbegehung: Björn Myrer Lund

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6c Skorpionens trender

First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 5a Stäppvargen

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

Erstbegehung: Lars Svadängs & Kenneth Nolkrantz

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1)

This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6c Tveksamma trender

Erstbegehung: Lars Svadängs & Christer Åstrand

Gemischt trad 16m, 1 Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6b Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2)

This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
1980
{FR} 5c - 6a+ No exit

Erste freie Begeh.: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs, 1980

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
1981
{FR} 6 Tummeliten

Starts on top of the block on the ground. A few meters up is crack which starts with a hole.

Erstbegehung: Lars Grankvist & Lars Svadängs, 1981

Traditionell 16m Gritstoneberget
1986
{FR} 6c Shift/Control

Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top. Bolt replaced 2022.

Erste freie Begeh.: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber, 1986

Gemischt trad 14m, 1 Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6/6+ Slå mig med slickepotten

Start up a few meters left of the block on the ground (Tummeliten) where there is a crack, then red rock (run out), thereafter a small dieder. Aim towards the pine tree close to the top.

Erstbegehung: Claes Jelinek & Martin Andersson, 1986

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
1987
{FR} 5c - 6a Björntjänst

Erste freie Begeh.: Björn Alber & Anna Groth, 1987

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
1989
5+ Olovlig körning

Small cams useful

Erste freie Begeh.: Thomas Weber & Ulrica Sundberg, 1989

Traditionell 12m Gritstoneberget
2014
{FR} 6/6+ Mental istid

Start up using the thin crack to the left of No exit. Thereafter travers right and continue upjust beside No exit to the top. Tricky to protect, use micro-cams and nuts.

Erstbegehung: Johan Sandberg, 2014

Erste freie Begeh.: Johan Sandberg & Adam Montén Kovacs, 2014

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
{FR} 6/6+ Mental istid

Start up using the thin crack to the left of No exit. Thereafter travers right and continue upjust beside No exit to the top. Tricky to protect, use micro-cams and nuts.

Erstbegehung: Johan Sandberg, 2014

Erste freie Begeh.: Johan Sandberg & Adam Montén Kovacs, 2014

Traditionell 15m Gritstoneberget
2019
6 Miol

Start 2m left from Urkki

Erstbegehung: Johan Sandberg & Lats Thoren, 2019

Traditionell Gritstoneberget

Zeigt alle 25 Routen.

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