Routen in Alpen für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

sortie directe 6a

Red piece of carpet under the first hanger. Red sign MOQ next to the first hanger. One can see the 5 first hangers from the bottom of the route.

Start in "Enfer que dalle", then left.

Perfect initiation spot to long multi-pitch climbing. Well equipped and easy to follow.

Starts at the red painted name. Count ~3h30 to finish, give or take.

1. (5a) Start at the red painted name and up to the jammed cam following the crack. Then traverse right, belay is hidden behind the ridge

2. (5b) follow the ridge

3. (a4)

4. (a4) P3 and 4 can be done as a single pitch with a 70m rope

5. (5b) Up the bulge through an exposed move to the first bolt, then up on the right of the arete to the belay.

6. (4a) Straight up

7. (4c)

8. (4a) Up the mossy wall

9. (4a) Continue on the mossy wall to the last belay station, then top up to nice rest area.

The descent path is on the left, behind the rest area/

One 50m cord is enough, all anchors except the top anchor are two bolts connected by a chain. Directly to the right of Fitz-Roy.

Great Multipitch route to start with. A few extra slings are recommanded for natural anchors, such as trees.

1. One hard move to go the right in the middle of the route.

2. Slabby, hands-free traverse to the right, trust your feet. Alpine draws are very helpfully. Short nice pitch.

3. Only one bolt, circa 3 slings for natural anchors, easy terrain, traverse.

4. Long, very nice slabby pitch. Can move fast here.

5. Slab with very good hand holds, very easy. Leads to very nice, big belay station.

6. Short, easy pitch. Use belay before the ledge with the trees.

7. Only 3m of climbing, afterwards walking terrain. Take rope stretch into consideration when belaying. Belay at tree. You will encounter a Buddha statue on top and a small hut at the hard crag "Bouddha".

8. Pitch starts all to the left. Move over the edge two times. One of the best pitches.

9. In the end, going right is easier than going straight on a blank wall. One of the best pitches.

10. Long slab pitch, gets less steep along the way. Some loose rocks.

Descent: Important to go to the left when exiting instead of straight which leads to Bouddha again. The path to Bouddha has fixed ropes and a "rappel" on a worn rope.