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Idleburger Buttress Area

  • Bewertungskontext: UK
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Routen

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A popular line that, although well-travelled, is still worthwhile. It is endowed with good gear on its hardest moves at mid-height. Start at a low ledge on the nose of the buttress. Move onto the ledge and work left on ledges for a few metres until it is possible to pick the easiest line up, then move rightwards to below a big overhang. Move right and then step up left to clear the overhang. Continue more easily past a cluster of bolts and finish leftwards.

A direct route through the wandering line of Idleburger Buttress. Climb straight up and then to the left of the obvious roof where Idleburger Buttress goes right.

Solo. Thin slab with a mono without recourse to holds on neighbouring routes. Requires the steeliest of nerves and the best in stickability. Much harder for vertically challenged, i.e. sub 6 foot one-ers!

The faint groove system just left of Floating Voter, follow it directly as possible with some frictional moves, trying very hard to keep out of Floating Voter. Worth it's lack of stars.

The very brown-streaked wall left of Jasper. Polish and mud make this route riskier than it might otherwise be.

Traverse

Erstbegehung: Jack Folkes, 2012

The short, sharp arête to the right of Jumping Carrots. Peg in the thin break. Join and finish up (or down) Jumping Carrots.

Start up Jumping Carrots, make an entertaining and well-protected traverse left below the roof of Jasper (small cam, peg) to reach its rest below the roof, traverse further left to reach Floating Voter. From here, the traverse along the break can be continued to a belay on one of the various bolt belays.

Various ways to finish:

a) Don't belay, but climb to the top in one pitch on any of the routes hereabouts. b) From one of the bolt belays, traverse further left to the large tree of Nightmare (making encounters with some of the vegetation). From here either climb to the top or c) Continue traversing along the break for several pitches, including the traverse pitch of Gronk and (possibly) further onwards. Keeping slightly downwards after Gronk allows for the last belay of Entrail to be reached, finish up Entrail (this gives a total of 6 pitches).

Is still climbable despite rockfall at the start.

Felswand ist nicht lokalisiert

Wenn du weisst, wo sich Felswand befindet, füge bitte diese Information für die Gemeinschaft ein. kontaktiere uns, solltest du Probleme haben.

Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Martin Crocker

Datum: 2017

ISBN: 9780957281547

A definitive rock climbing guidebook covering the Avon Gorge, situated in the centre of Bristol, detailing Suspension Bridge Area, Main Wall Area, Sea Walls Area, and Leigh Woods Area.

Autor(en): Steve Broadbent

Datum: 2024

ISBN: 9781913167127

A selective guidebook describes the best sport climbing areas in the southern half of England and Wales, describing 101 crags and over 4,600 routes covering Carmarthen Bay, the Gower Peninsula, Swansea Bay, the Welsh Valleys, Gilwern, the Wye Valley, Avon, north side of Cheddar Gorge, Portland, Lulworth, Swanage, Devon, and Cornwall.

Autor(en): Mark Glaister

Datum: 2022

ISBN: 9781873341889

10 top climbing areas of the southwest of England - Wye Valley, Avon and Somerset, North Devon, Culm Coast, Inland Cornwall, Atlantic Coast, West Penwith, The Lizard, Inland Devon and Torbay

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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So 25 Jun
Finde heraus, was in Idleburger Buttress Area passiert.

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