Routen in Llanberis Pass

Start as for karma Sutra but top straight out via a tricky move.

The obvious low sit down start, leads to a powerful rightwards traverse on good edges to the large finishing jug.

Video Beta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBCl-gx2Wh8

The right arete of the left boulder.

Start low with a foot on the big jutting foothold.

Sit down start below the obvious good side pull midway along the traverse of G Spotting. Use the good sloper underneath to gain the side pull before mantle out.

Sit down start at the right arete of the right boulder, moving upwards to the shelf, before traversing leftwards along the lip of the shelf all the way to the left arete.

Climb the scoop to the right of G Spotting.

Rockfax Description The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress.

1. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from, and traverse rightwards below the holly tree. Then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove.

2. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot.

3. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above.

4. Finish as for P3 of Nea (ed. Up left easily OR rap off the tatt at end of P3) . © ROCKFAX

1. As per P2 of 'Sickle'.

2. As per P3 of 'Nea' .

1. As per P3 'Nea'

Either continue up P2 of 'Brant' or belay on the right and abseil off.

P1 as for 'Overlapping Wall'

A scrappy start leads to an exciting crucial traverse under the large diagonal overhang. Start by scrambling up to the foot of the groove that leads up to the left end of the overhang.

1. 4a. 27m. Climb the groove to belay under the huge roof.

2. 4c. 12m. A series of three ledges leads up rightwards under the overhang. From the top ledge a hard move right gains a short groove. Climb to a tree belay.

3. 8m. Climb easily to good ledge.

P3 as per 'Shadow Wall'. Somewhat preferable (and faster) to abseil from the top of P2/start of P3.

Epic sustained thin crack line left of the Memory Lane arête above the Garden. Access via multiple lines.

Bold but steady climbing weaving towards and away from the arête (to climbers right) following the holds. Side runners in LW reduces the grade.

Go straight up instead of traversing left

Straight up instead of heading to arête for second pitch

A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag.

1. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.

2. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.

3. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).

4. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.

5. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.

6. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived! Descend the main gully to the right.

Traverse the low block L-R on small edges to a glory jug of a flake and top out

From the RH pinch and LH sloper rail punch to the top

From the slopey rail under the roof, gain the slopey edge and rail of Chip Shop Slapper to finish up this

An absolute classic, start on LH sidepull RH flatty, big move out right and up to the finger jug, move left on indistinct holds to golf ball jug

Make your way up into the groove and over the top - technical and classic

Start from flake to the right of the mantelshelf for Wavelength Groove without big footblock underneath - finish up the groove

The well chalked low sit down start eliminate to jerrie's roof at the far right hand stide of the boulder.

From the starting holds of Bus Stop, reverse the Mr Fantastic Crux into Jerry's Roof and then climb this to the top.

After the 1st move of Bys Stop, either cross under to a 2 finger jam or use a crimp next to the main edge and exit righwards onto the slab.

A tight line to the right of Bus Stop pulling on with left hand on the edge and right hand on an undercut, slap up into the porthole and top out rightwards.

The line of the roof that links Jerry's roof into Bus Stop via a powerful sequence underneath the crux on Jerry's Roof.

From slopers on the ramp, move through the line of holds left of Diesel Power, and up over the lip (avoid the block on the left).

Behind Jerry's roof. Good and obvious right to left traverse with great holds, also a nice warm up in the sun.