Einträge in Beaver Street Wall

Located right in the middle of San Francisco, you'll find a handful of fun, moderate slab routes on one of the largest exposed slickensides in the world.

According to the Bay Area Rock guide, there's a 5.11 route up the face to the left of the crack (topo is approximate). Expect thin moves up a chossy face, especially near the top, with lots of loose rock near the fence posts.

Follow the horizontal crack over to the main vertical crack, with interesting crux moves at the horizontal traverse. If leading or aiding, look for the hangerless bolt two-thirds the way up in the middle of the glassy face. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts.

Top anchor is chains which are often backed up with a sling on the second fence post. You don't have to climb over the fences to set up a top rope; however, if you do pull the chains under the fence, be very careful to avoid knocking rocks over the cliff.

The aid grade for this route is C1+ to C2 R.

An interesting and recommended mid-5.10 variation on all of the main routes is to avoid the vertical crack, using only face holds just to the right of the crack.

The direct variation is easier and has a few interesting moves off the ground. Climb directly up the face to the crack. The crux is low with no opportunities to place pro before reaching the main crack.

If aid climbing, the low section can be aided with hooks, then pro to 2.5" and many small nuts for the crack. The aid grade for this route is C2 to C3 R.

Follow the thin crack up and to the right of the direct start before climbing the thin face (balancy crux) back and to the left.

Start on 'Right of Direct Start'[16450741] but continue up the face, avoiding the crack until the very top of the route.

A line of micro edges leads straight up to the fencepost to the right of the crack. The holds are small and painful, but the rock quality is good enough. The Bay Area Rock guide lists this as 5.11+, but it's probably harder.

Three hangerless bolts, two bolts with hangers, and one piton mark a line up the dirty, chossy face with very thin holds and balancy moves. Face climbing up past two or three old bolt holes will get you to the first hangerless bolt. Use the right-most doubled up fence post as a top anchor.